looking up the power grid it looks like it's the black box for drag racers....
i hear its very street friendly,
What Did You Do To Your G-Body Today? [2020]
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i hear its very street friendly,
What 8-track are you listening to?
Looked at it, hopeing the horse will eat some of the grass on the passenger side Haha, but na it's time to get out there.damn was gunna get a pic but the horse left
When the car not running right now Elvis Presley, A Canadian tribute, mostly all Elvis.
When running the drone from the race bullets
I've done a lot of little things, tearing down my 305 cleaning up the gunk and so much carbon. Had suuuuper clogged intake full of carbon, I'm having trouble getting my crankshaft off. Just need a flex hone for my cylinders. Cleaning my valves really debating just getting new. Keeping my pistons, they look good, new bearings obviously. Any tips? Kinda looks like a mess kuz it it... But i kinda kniw where everything goes. Not harsh, just waiting on funds lol
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You sure you just want/need to use a dingle ball hone on those cylinders? Did you get an opportunity to use a bore gauge and check them for round at the top and the bottom of the sleeve? As for the pistons, even a new set of hyper-eutectic ones would likely be better than using used. Not knocking used per se, simply pointing out that pistons take a hell of a beating while they do the up and down locomotion that they do. if you are down that far and about to pull the crank, resizing the rods and fresh pistons are a cheap date that will make you and the motor happy campers in the long run. Investing in an ARP engine bolt or stud kit might also seem overkill for a street mild engine but it will only take one re-used bolt to fail under load and you now have an inexpensive boat anchor. And yes i do get the business of the budget blues. I spend most of my time accumulating enough spare change to buy the stuff I need as it is. It's the old adage, if you have the money, you don't have the time; and if you have the time, you don't have the dough-re-mi.
Nick
Nick
Got some decent mockup done on moving the battery. Had to go cruising beforehand though lol. Got the moroso box out. I'll need to pull the plastic tray and trim the spacers under to drop it down about 1/4", but at a halt for the night. Need some more 1/0 cable lugs so I'll pick some up in the morning and try to get most done until my junction blocks show up next week.
Looking at the upside down picture of the bottom end, two things need to occur. First is that the reluctor wheel and rear one piece seal assembly have to come off before you can lift the crank. You may be able to ease the seal housing past the reluctor without having to move it and that would be a bonus. Second is that the tube for the dipstick has to be pushed back into the block to gain some wiggle room. It is held in place by a bolt screwed into a boss up near the deck surface; easy to locate. The idea is that you want all the counterweights as close to in line with each as possible so that you can get a straight up lift on that chunk of metal. BE PREPARED. It is heavy and can be slippery. Dropping it is basically an "Oh sh*t" moment because it coming into contact with anything harder than a stack of pillows is almost a sure guarantee that it is no longer linearly straight and true.
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