What Did You Do To Your G-Body Today? [2020]
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Seriously, Scott, if your neighbor has a FasTrax or Longacre, do it yourself. Depending on what UCAs you have, I'd just max it out, and see what it is. The factory setup adjusts caster and camber at the same time. You'll have a stack of shims in the back, so if you want to pretty it up, have a spacer made to replace the shim stack; it's not like you'll have to change it often. The tire monkeys these days don't know about shims; they only know eccentrics.
make sure the shop can do the camber and caster, al
I had a hard time finding a place that did the camber and caster, one place wanted to charge me an extra hour per side to do the camber, the $89 "alignment" was only toe. A corvette specialist did the camber and toe but the caster was greyed out and he told me there was no caster adjustment on my car...
I had a hard time finding a place that did the camber and caster, one place wanted to charge me an extra hour per side to do the camber, the $89 "alignment" was only toe. A corvette specialist did the camber and toe but the caster was greyed out and he told me there was no caster adjustment on my car...
essploded motor is out
more pics of the carnage
found the half of the cam
and some rods
cam beat the hell outta the flexplate and dented the converter as well as sheared the bolts. $370 later, new converter, bolts, and fp on their way.
This thing was still running after this. it only died when i shut it off. i was only at like 200rpm, but it was running.
more pics of the carnage
found the half of the cam
and some rods
cam beat the hell outta the flexplate and dented the converter as well as sheared the bolts. $370 later, new converter, bolts, and fp on their way.
This thing was still running after this. it only died when i shut it off. i was only at like 200rpm, but it was running.
Yep, duly noted Bruce. I have BMR upper arms which have a thicker cross shaft to help eliminate as many shims. I marked all the shims on disassembly years back, marked the tie rods, etc. Then on assembly put everything back to how it was. It's not off much tbh, but I'd rather put it on a machine to ensure I don't wear my tires out too fast. Good idea on the spacers, I had already had that in mind as well as it would look cleaner.
So, what broke first? How did the cam go out the back of the block?
Assuming rod bolts failed, rod hit cam, broke cam, cam piece was pushed back (rear cam plug is gone, rear bearing mangled, plus the flexplate damage), flexplate hitting the cam piece was forced back into the engine contacting the other rods (there is at least 2 in the pan, shattered piston pieces as well) and it all went to hell from there.
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