What Did You Do To Your G-Body Today? [2020]

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Yesterday, changed oil. Went on a 200mile adventure, got pretty good mpg, water pump ate itself (reserve comments for my "What the hell?" thread), fear of timing cover being the source of metal flakes in coolant as unfounded, just water pump bearing bits. Knocked the old pump off, yep. Hard to turn, harder than the new pump anyway. Letting the new pump set up overnight before filling with fluid and putting the fan back on.

I got it done, despite mother nature's protests. Driving rain, then hail. Tiny, but hail nonetheless. Not snow. Snow don't bounce.
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I was going to ask 100$ for it because I already have 7 of them in the shed four of them SS code CZ thanks for the heads up i’m a pack rat when it comes to this sh*t I don’t like to sell anything because it always seems like I needed it later down the road but I’m starting to think It’s time to thin the parts herd I do have four other Monte Carlo’s that I drive with 200R4s in them and my 1989 caprice my parts shed is a junkyard all into itself
Sold 150$ one 200R4
Now what do I do with all these 400 small blocks I’m holding on to
Nick
Here’s a pic of my parts shed I have 27 small block Chevy‘s in every cubic inch but 265
Along with 23 automatic transmissions
11 th350
7-200R4
2- 700R4 and one th400
who knows how many small block intake’s holly carburetors Quadra jet are lost in the mess View attachment 142136View attachment 142137
How dare you get all the g body hoarders on here all hot and bothered with such p*rn
 
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First pic is an under construction shot of my shop/garage/cave from 2012. Had just finished getting the trusses up and was waiting for the roofers to come and sheet it. Internally, it is 32' x 32' gives a floor area of 1024 sq.ft. Externally it is 33' sq. At the peak inside it is just under 12'. Takes one lift of scaffold and duck boards to replace the light bulbs! The perimeter walls are 8', 2 x 6 sitting on 2' of cinder block knee wall. Going that route served two purposes. It kept the walls above the snow drifts in the winter and the rain and crud in the summer, which reduced the possibility of sill rot, and it keeps the rodents and vermin from trying to dig under and get in. Neighbour found out he had squirrels in his shed but it cost him a lot of camping and fishing gear that the varmints got into and destroyed.

The second pic is just stuff that I had accumulated and stashed in various places and sheds and boxes over the years. Internally, I am supposed to have enough room that I can open car doors and still easily get past them. Sort of, as long as the doors aren't lined up with each other.

Being a pole barn, you'd have the height that I don't. Makes for greater vertical shelving and storage; even build a mezzanine or upstairs like someone did and posted pics of. Be tall enough to bring in a rig and wrench on it if you had to. Mine has enough height that I could install a scissor style floor lift to make underneath work a little easier. Wanted higher but had to go to City Planning and fight them to get what I did get so higher got lost in the rumble and never did make it to the table. Probably for the best, they were none to pleased that I got what I built in the first place. More pics of how full the joint has become over the last few years are around somewhere. May post them as they turn up.

Sliding some wheels under the shed and moving it in as is, is not a bad idea. You could take the roof off it once you have it situated and build shelves or bins up there instead. Hope the floor joists are up for the stress and strain. Good luck with the move.

Nick
 
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First pic is an under construction shot of my shop/garage/cave from 2012. Had just finished getting the trusses up and was waiting for the roofers to come and sheet it. Internally, it is 32' x 32' gives a floor area of 1024 sq.ft. Externally it is 33' sq. At the peak inside it is just under 12'. Takes one lift of scaffold and duck boards to replace the light bulbs! The perimeter walls are 8', 2 x 6 sitting on 2' of cinder block knee wall. Going that route served two purposes. It kept the walls above the snow drifts in the winter and the rain and crud in the summer, which reduced the possibility of sill rot, and it keeps the rodents and vermin from trying to dig under and get in. Neighbour found out he had squirrels in his shed but it cost him a lot of camping and fishing gear that the varmints got into and destroyed.

The second pic is just stuff that I had accumulated and stashed in various places and sheds and boxes over the years. Internally, I am supposed to have enough room that I can open car doors and still easily get past them. Sort of, as long as the doors aren't lined up with each other.

Being a pole barn, you'd have the height that I don't. Makes for greater vertical shelving and storage; even build a mezzanine or upstairs like someone did and posted pics of. Be tall enough to bring in a rig and wrench on it if you had to. Mine has enough height that I could install a scissor style floor lift to make underneath work a little easier. Wanted higher but had to go to City Planning and fight them to get what I did get so higher got lost in the rumble and never did make it to the table. Probably for the best, they were none to pleased that I got what I built in the first place. More pics of how full the joint has become over the last few years are around somewhere. May post them as they turn up.

Sliding some wheels under the shed and moving it in as is, is not a bad idea. You could take the roof off it once you have it situated and build shelves or bins up there instead. Hope the floor joists are up for the stress and strain. Good luck with the move.

Nick
Nick it was a joke I’m not moving the shed I said put wheels on it and drive it
 
Welp, I breathed on my fitting for the overflow and it snapped off. An 1/8-27NPT tap, 11/32 bit, and matching 3/8 barb fitting later it's better. I've read that this happens fairly often, way more often than it should. Why isn't it brazed on there. Why is it smaller than it should be. Bah.

Also, gauge seems to be behaving now (still gonna replace, calm down pontiacgp), and the newest water pump seems to be behaving as well. Stays right about 180-190F. Guess it was just a bad pump and an air pocket. Nothing but an air pocket would make a "mechanical" temp gauge rapidly swing from 180 to 260 depending on engine speed. Companies make x amount of pumps, some are bound to suck. And yes, I put tape in the fill hole BEFORE I started drilling. Towel was there for convenience.
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Which kind of proves that I am either more burned out than I figured or the idea of putting that shed on wheels, (anyone got a half-dead chassis from an old truck they could give up??) tickled my fancy, Still think putting it on wheels and moving it lock, stock, and barrel, into that pole barn is not a half bad idea. Once you have it in there you could do a little tweaking and shifting and end up with a TIKi bar or somewhere to stash the fridge or hang a BBQ off it or?? As it may have occurred to you be now, my humour is about as bent as a car wrapped around a telephone pole after the driver had many too many. As for the actual movement, what I did to move my goat locker out of its old location and into the shop so I could use it for a POL storage locker was to buy some sections of 3" rigid PVC pipe and used them as rollers. Took a little bit of finagling to get it to turn and then to stuff it into its new location but there it is and it works reasonably well.. Any ooey-gooey, oil grease and such like, gets stacked in there and the door closed. Being made of metal, I can even use it as a test panel to try colors LOL
Have fun with your moving day.

Nick
 
Finally decided to add the crane vacuum advance limiter plate.
Instead of installing it as recommended:
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I took the other route, as mentioned in the powertiming thread on v8buick and mounted it ahead of the pin like so:
crane2.jpg

This prevents unnecessary preload/advance on the canister. I've got about 8* of vac advance, 12* initial, 22* mech. adv. all in by 2600. Car is spunkier. Definite difference.

Also got bored and cleaned my coolant tank. Was kind of grody inside and out. This is the best I could get it. Yes, I need to top off the coolant.
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Started the 405 build today found the ACL race bearings have a little too much clearance on the rods for my liking 3 1/2 and I’m out of stock in other 10 under rods
I do have a half set of Kings and my clevite test bearing The clevite bearing be the winner at two eight clearance So its Rockauto to the rescue
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Also yesterday I replaced the cig/clk fuse and lubed and moved the hood latch up 1/16 ish. No more slamming. 😀
 
Also yesterday I replaced the cig/clk fuse and lubed and moved the hood latch up 1/16 ish. No more slamming. 😀
MrSony you ever want to step up that stock HEI get a MSD ignition module they truly work they make an already clean idle Even better And make a noticeable improvement in throttle response
 
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