Brought #1 home from hibernation.
What Did You Do To Your G-Body Today? [2021]
- Thread starter CopperNick
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I have to rework that and the neutral safety switch/ back up lights. Been studying the schematics. Been a long project.
Yesterday, I picked up a bunch of lumber at Lowe's for a project to enclose my carport. Today, the exhaust system is scraping when going in/out of steep driveways at the shopping center. I have not looked under yet, but I suspect that the exhaust hanger on one side or the other has broken.
Was going to run the wires off the original plug for the dash wiper switch down the the column control. Not going to have pulse is all. If issues occur ( I’m going to a later gaged dash cluster and tach) I figured where I don’t have A/C but the vent is there I can move the wiper control there. I have to find a part that seem a little rare to find though. They make a “plug “ for the A/C vent hole to block it off. I have one but plan on salvage yard shopping soon.I’m trying not to cut the original wiring harness in case things don’t work the way I want.
Did some more re-arranging of the floor to gain a little more room and, after some additional thought, elected to pull the window glass out of its cradles and stash it somewhere safe?? to gain some more working space inside the shell; also parked the tracks for it.
Was just looking at the motor assembly and happened to notice that that big old spring that normally sits on a large pin at the intersection of the two lever arms was missing. Since the last time I dealt with an electric window drive was multiple decades ago and, at the time, I suffered a broken finger from the arms snapping closed during the dissassembly process.
(Lucky it didn't completely amputate the finger. Actually thought it had only been severely bruised at the time so there I was, with the finger under cold water, trying to freeze the finger to stop/reduce the swelling and it still isn't working right! Trip to the Emerg and the doc says he can't set it unless he freezes it. Told him to pull harder, he wasn't happy, jammed the needles into me anyway. Six weeks without two fingers cause he used the next door neighbour as part of the splint. Couldn't pull a clutch lever and working on the 78 became a PITA Anyway)
What my memory is not recalling for me is whether or not the motor drive window mechanisms needed that spring or if it was just meant for the hand driven crank the window up manually version?
Went looking for pictures but about that kept appearing was tape drive stuff and that is way too new for what I am working with. Might have a spare assembly lurking around in one of the totes but figured it might be easier to inquire before going through the exercise of unearthing them and rooting through the contents.
Did get a good look in at the old bottom sill/flange replacement and it actually would have worked without any additional visits from the welder. At the time it was both plug and seam welded in place because My Lincoln 180 was set up for outside work and flux core is/was not up to the task of doing a butt weld involving metal 19/20 gauge in that kind of environment. I just couldn't dial it down that cold.
So with the sill pocket now wide open to invasion, I can strip all the old remaining surface rust out, get down to clean metal, recut or dress down the old edges, and then finish the inside seam edge. I am not going to cut away the replacement sill; too much work for too little gain. It looks to be simpler just to knock down the previous welds and get them smooth and then move on to rust mort and primer sealer.
Pictures?? maybe later this week once I make some more progress and get a better feel for how much more surgery will be needed to deal with that mia leading edge. Right now it looks to be a total cut away, no rehab possible.
So, anyone happen to have a picture or two of an 81-88 Monte Carlo SS driver's side window motor assembly complete with the sector gear and arms that I can take a peek at??
Nick
Was just looking at the motor assembly and happened to notice that that big old spring that normally sits on a large pin at the intersection of the two lever arms was missing. Since the last time I dealt with an electric window drive was multiple decades ago and, at the time, I suffered a broken finger from the arms snapping closed during the dissassembly process.
(Lucky it didn't completely amputate the finger. Actually thought it had only been severely bruised at the time so there I was, with the finger under cold water, trying to freeze the finger to stop/reduce the swelling and it still isn't working right! Trip to the Emerg and the doc says he can't set it unless he freezes it. Told him to pull harder, he wasn't happy, jammed the needles into me anyway. Six weeks without two fingers cause he used the next door neighbour as part of the splint. Couldn't pull a clutch lever and working on the 78 became a PITA Anyway)
What my memory is not recalling for me is whether or not the motor drive window mechanisms needed that spring or if it was just meant for the hand driven crank the window up manually version?
Went looking for pictures but about that kept appearing was tape drive stuff and that is way too new for what I am working with. Might have a spare assembly lurking around in one of the totes but figured it might be easier to inquire before going through the exercise of unearthing them and rooting through the contents.
Did get a good look in at the old bottom sill/flange replacement and it actually would have worked without any additional visits from the welder. At the time it was both plug and seam welded in place because My Lincoln 180 was set up for outside work and flux core is/was not up to the task of doing a butt weld involving metal 19/20 gauge in that kind of environment. I just couldn't dial it down that cold.
So with the sill pocket now wide open to invasion, I can strip all the old remaining surface rust out, get down to clean metal, recut or dress down the old edges, and then finish the inside seam edge. I am not going to cut away the replacement sill; too much work for too little gain. It looks to be simpler just to knock down the previous welds and get them smooth and then move on to rust mort and primer sealer.
Pictures?? maybe later this week once I make some more progress and get a better feel for how much more surgery will be needed to deal with that mia leading edge. Right now it looks to be a total cut away, no rehab possible.
So, anyone happen to have a picture or two of an 81-88 Monte Carlo SS driver's side window motor assembly complete with the sector gear and arms that I can take a peek at??
Nick
I cut down and modified a Monte SS shifter handle to work with my B & M shifter in my Regal, the threaded insert is actually a 1/2-20 acorn lug nut, after cutting the handle down I used the Dremel to cut in the 6 point shape and then used JB Weld to lock it in place.
The button still moves but it is just for show.
The button still moves but it is just for show.
Now wouldn't that button make a great little actuator for a shot of nitrous? Total sleeper, completely under the radar. Everything looks stock and then sayonara
Threw some more time at the lower flange on that door shell. Didn't quite blow up my dremel but the speed button won't stay in high range any more; detent inside is worn out. Did score a new one on special for about half off but it might have to go back; its' being weird and losing power already and only an hour old. Put the whole thing back in its case and back to Home Depot it goes.
Nick
Threw some more time at the lower flange on that door shell. Didn't quite blow up my dremel but the speed button won't stay in high range any more; detent inside is worn out. Did score a new one on special for about half off but it might have to go back; its' being weird and losing power already and only an hour old. Put the whole thing back in its case and back to Home Depot it goes.
Nick
Too many tool companies have had quality go downhill during the pandemic in our experience.
We had one saw which was so poorly assembled, when you set it to make a 45* beveled cut the blade would actually pass through the opening correctly when set to 90*, but at a 45* bevel made contact with the opening sidewalls.
Then, the fixed tracks for the gates weren't set perpendicular to the miter blate assembly itself. Everything was off a couple degrees, and, there was no built in adjustability to correct. You would need to build up with weld and re machine the the entire platform, and build a jig to precise angles to ensure it was all don't square.
And we're not talking some cheap saw, it was a $699 unit.
Now, that's one of the worst I've encountered, but, quality control has gone to crap, and, nobody was surprised when I returned it so I'm guessing they've had a number of issues..
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