What Did You Do To Your G-Body Today? [2022]

[UC645]

Looks like your jam nut is loose on your upper arm there, is that on purpose?

Kind of, these arms are double adjustable arms from Trick Chassis and the housing end of the arm is threaded instead of using a stud.

 

[Built6spdMCSS]

I have had the 2" drop UMI rear springs in the back of my Monte for over 10 years and they haven't changed ride height from the day I installed them.
My tires are 28" rear and 27" front, my front springs were stock SBC replacement but there is a BBC up front and also a Moser 9" in the back.

Well, my rear tires are a 285/40/17, which on the ground right now measures 25 1/4" diameter. So add in the extra ~1.5" on the top if it was a 28" tire, I'm pretty much where you would be. Given when the car body rolls in corners the axle will articulate and the tire will go up into the wheel well I'll take the clearance to not bury tire into the fender lip.

I'll take the rake it has, looks better than it did. I'll have to grow a mullet out and ride around listening to some hair bands.

 

[565bbchevy]

I took my Regal out to wash it and go for quick drive, it was dark out but what a difference these Holley RetroBrights make they really didn't seem any brighter than the LED's I replaced but driving was a completely different story, they light up everything like a new car would and have a very clean cutoff, it's nice to see well and also know I am not blinding oncoming traffic.

 

[Cauterize]

I took my Regal out to wash it and go for quick drive, it was dark out but what a difference these Holley RetroBrights make they really didn't seem any brighter than the LED's I replaced but driving was a completely different story, they light up everything like a new car would and have a very clean cutoff, it's nice to see well and also know I am not blinding oncoming traffic.

Have been deciding which way I want to go for my Regal for lighting. Been debating the retobight or a Hella H4 housing +LED bulbs. Nice to hear some positives

 

[Injectedcutty]

Been tinkering with stuff getting ready to put the Cutlass on jack stands for some winter upgrades. So far the list has grown from rear disc upgrade, to a likely frame notch for a wider tire, to now also doing front coilovers and lower A arms which were never upgraded. I added some circuits in the garage to accommodate the new welder which I should have next week at some point too!
I dug out the Moser rear diff cover and plan A failed, so I went to plan B which was free, just took some elbow grease. I smoothed out the conter part, polished it, clear coated the cover and installed an Olds emblem I got from the junkyard awhile back. I have a busy winter ahead!

 

[Built6spdMCSS]

Took my SS out for a drive to feel it out. Had to adjust the tie rods, car now tracks straight as an arrow and very responsive. I can notice a difference with the solid body bushings because I know the car, feels smoother and tighter. Couple of the mirrors always vibrated because of the drivetrain vibration, that actually has gotten less.

The Richmond rear gears always made noise, I set them up at .006" lash with the pattern on center, that seems to have gotten louder so I'll just turn up the radio more.🤘

Other than that it rides good, I'm anticipating the rear to come down a hair the more I drive it so see what happens. I'm happy with it having some clearance, if the tire is too close to the fender I'll bury it with the body roll.

 

[ssn696]

Finally finished the Olds steering wheel. Filled all the cracks with epoxy, filed, sanded and dyed to match. Topped off the old school skinny wheel with a generic Amazon oriental leather cover, using a baseball stitch, just to be fancy. Not blue, but close enough. While thinner than a Monte SS wheel, it's way more comfy than the OEM hard plastic.

 

[old80cs]

Worked on my Cutlass for a while this afternoon, had to tend to an issue of my engine not sitting level (side to side) in the frame. It's been like that for a long time, no idea how I missed it as it stuck out like a sore thumb to me all summer while working on the body and paint with my friend. It's been at least 30 years since I stabbed the engine back in the frame after the repairs to body mounts and complete suspension rebuild. I had never put it back on the road, it's been in storage since then in my garage. After several attempts to pry bar it over, lifting the engine and prying it over etc nothing was working, still way off. I decided to try swapping the rubber mounts left to right to see if maybe that was the issue. I know the frame mounts weren't it as I never touched them when I did the frame repairs and such. Swapping the mounts did the trick, it sits level again. I must have removed them years ago when I replaced the oil pan while the car was apart and didn’t realize they had settled into there respective sides and crossed them up when I reinstalled them. Now that that is done I re-installed the starter and set my down pipes again to continue on with the new exhaust build. Not much progress lately but doing a little at a time as I'm (we're) able. No pictures now, but will grab some when there is something to look at.

 

[mclellan83]

Over the weekend I got the correct wire tapped for the head units, thanks again everyone. And of course with the upgraded unit it doesn't make as much difference since there is no side buttons on it

So then i figured I would customize the units similar to the way I had the others, but for some reason the new unit won't let me log into Google or the Play Store so was trying to factory reset it. But it wouldn't take the normal pins for it, so I have to send a video of me putting in the pin to show what they say it should be won't work....

 

[UC645]

Currently altering the exhaust to sit about an inch higher, while putting in the option to change mufflers so I can (hopefully) avoid tickets.
No photos, so here’s the O2 bung I welded in