What Did You Do To Your G-Body Today? [2022]
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Well, it wasn't today... or even yesterday, but earlier this month I changed the gear oil in the rear of the '78 Cutlass. It was definitely way past due, but not too bad.
There seems to be a little excessive play on the axles, a very audible "Clunk" and visible movement between the button end of the axle and the pin. C-clips didn't look like they were too worn.
Is this movement normal, if so how much should there be and how much is too much? I measured the gap but don't recall what the measurements were... (wrote them down but lost the paper I wrote them on.) Anyway, I needed it back together and off the jack stands so I sealed it and filled it back up to worry about another time.
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There seems to be a little excessive play on the axles, a very audible "Clunk" and visible movement between the button end of the axle and the pin. C-clips didn't look like they were too worn.
Is this movement normal, if so how much should there be and how much is too much? I measured the gap but don't recall what the measurements were... (wrote them down but lost the paper I wrote them on.) Anyway, I needed it back together and off the jack stands so I sealed it and filled it back up to worry about another time.
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I lost the numbers from my Camaro, but I want to say one side had about .020" and the other was definitely at or right around .040". I rosette welded the axle shafts to get about .010" per side. No idea what spec would be.
Replaced the headlights with 4 new ones for the first time. Always just replaced one at a time. I know ive only ever replaced 3 of them, and the driver's highbeam sad USA on it, so that one may be original.
Added a ground from the engine to the frame, cleaned up some others. These are all the grounds my car has in the engine compartment. I've noticed that just with the act of turning on the blower motor my volt gauge temporarily drops from 13.5-14.5 to 12 or less volts but then shoots right back up. These draw that much power?
First pic: passenger headlight ground and battery neg offshoot to fender
Second pic: an extra ground i added from the blower motor to the fender, other wires to fender are antenna wires. idk how but it made the antenna pick up signal better lol
Third pic: driver's side headlight ground and fan grounds. there's two because the extra wire would normally be grounded through a temp switch
Fourth pic: from left to right, hvac and heater core ground, strap from bellhousing to firewall, cruise ground
Fifth pic: engine to frame ground i added, and the negative battery cable mounts to the alternator bracket with a through bolt into the head, i also shortened that cable so it wasn't like 6" longer than it needed to be
Added a ground from the engine to the frame, cleaned up some others. These are all the grounds my car has in the engine compartment. I've noticed that just with the act of turning on the blower motor my volt gauge temporarily drops from 13.5-14.5 to 12 or less volts but then shoots right back up. These draw that much power?
First pic: passenger headlight ground and battery neg offshoot to fender
Second pic: an extra ground i added from the blower motor to the fender, other wires to fender are antenna wires. idk how but it made the antenna pick up signal better lol
Third pic: driver's side headlight ground and fan grounds. there's two because the extra wire would normally be grounded through a temp switch
Fourth pic: from left to right, hvac and heater core ground, strap from bellhousing to firewall, cruise ground
Fifth pic: engine to frame ground i added, and the negative battery cable mounts to the alternator bracket with a through bolt into the head, i also shortened that cable so it wasn't like 6" longer than it needed to be
Finally got it to place nice after some tech help, for some reason they updated it to the same software my bottom unit is running. Now some minor tinkering to get it completely the way I want but so much better. Now that pesky distributor one of these days hahaha
took it to the beach before work
I worked on my exhaust system today, no tail pipes yet but the rest is there loose. I need to lower the car off the lift tables to load the suspension and set the pipes up high as possible. Don't zoom in, there are no nice row of dimes to behold. I'll be hitting all my welded joints with a grinder and touch up as needed once I mend in the H pipe crossover and build the tail pipes. I show signs of hope with the stainless welding but then crash and burn. Practice practice.....
Will band clamp the down pipes to the H pipe and at the mufflers. And band clamp the tailpipes to the mufflers as well so II can remove the system with ease in the event of a failed transmission.
The last photo is of an American Racing Header system and it's not showing the driveshaft centered and neither is mine. It even favors the same side as mine and I was wondering what I did wrong? I made the pipes hug the trans tunnel and rear floor pans, not crazy critical but as best I could. The mufflers are hung exactly the same so must be the floor pan of the car? 🤔
Will band clamp the down pipes to the H pipe and at the mufflers. And band clamp the tailpipes to the mufflers as well so II can remove the system with ease in the event of a failed transmission.
The last photo is of an American Racing Header system and it's not showing the driveshaft centered and neither is mine. It even favors the same side as mine and I was wondering what I did wrong? I made the pipes hug the trans tunnel and rear floor pans, not crazy critical but as best I could. The mufflers are hung exactly the same so must be the floor pan of the car? 🤔
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Driveshaft always points to the passengers side, no matter what rear diff you have. It's where the Pinion is in the Housing.
Thanks for the reply! 👍
I thought I was loosing my mind looking up at it this afternoon.
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