Those front springs have been in the car for 12 years. The rears are new and I'm hoping that drops a hair.
The settling bit isn't about the springs "breaking in", the only springs I've ever cut were used and both settled a bit after a drive.
Those front springs have been in the car for 12 years. The rears are new and I'm hoping that drops a hair.
I positioned the bottoms in the stops on the LCA so I'll be surprised if it gets lower.The settling bit isn't about the springs "breaking in", the only springs I've ever cut were used and both settled a bit after a drive.
You can buy a switch that threads into the head, intake or anywhere that has a coolant port. Use a large pin relay - pin 30 to the battery with a fuse inline, pin 87 to the fan 12v+, pin 85 to a 12v+ source that is hot only with the key on and running (not hot when cranking), and pin 86 to one of the switch wires. The other wire in the switch put to any ground source.Fans and amp are directly to battery, fans with a relay and 30 amp fuse. Amp has a mega fuse. The way I have the 4th gen Camaro ls1 (according to the guy I bought em from) fans wired is full beans by grounding the wires that would otherwise go to a fan switch. Unground them, fans slow down. Haven't had luck finding a fan switch. The battery negative is grounded to the block via an alternator bracket bolt that threads into the head.
This is how my fans are wired. Kicks on and off at a preset temp using a temperature switch in the intake and kicks on when the A/C turns on using another relay.You can buy a switch that threads into the head, intake or anywhere that has a coolant port. Use a large pin relay - pin 30 to the battery with a fuse inline, pin 87 to the fan 12v+, pin 85 to a 12v+ source that is hot only with the key on and running (not hot when cranking), and pin 86 to one of the switch wires. The other wire in the switch put to any ground source.
You buy the switches anywhere - Amazon, Summit, EBay, etc.
I have had the 2" drop UMI rear springs in the back of my Monte for over 10 years and they haven't changed ride height from the day I installed them.Wheel gap looks what it does because the rear wheel well is 2" taller in the rear. Body is 1" taller in the back on the bottom so when the new rear springs sag that will close that gap. Have to see what the wheel well does. It would be lower if I didn't have the 9" Rear, the axle tubes are bigger.
I’ve been reworking my exhaust because it looked far too low and found I bought the wrong shocks when I was setting this up initially:
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Im not sure why the passenger side is lower than the driver’s, but I’ll check that when the car’s on a proper level. I need some lowering shocks, and I found in a couple old posts from pontiacgp that a set of Bilstien AK series should work.
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But there’s a catch. While the part number still exists, the measurements have changed if Summit is to be believed:
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So I’m at an impasse here. I can’t find a shock that fits the measurements from pontiacgp that’s the right type of shock for the rear of a G body, and I’m not thrilled at the prospect of going with a completely custom set from AFCO or similar with no knowledge of the valving in a performance shock.
Might give Vi-King a call later next week but I’m not prepared to spend up to $500 for two shocks.
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