What Did You Do To Your G-Body Today? [2023]

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I have tried 3x to get the cross shaft out of my broken 7.5 diff over the last week.
The 5\16 cross shaft Pin broke, and as a result it ovaled up the diff case real bad.

First attempt I took the death wheel to the case and put a slot in it where the pin "could" interfere. And it was still stuck but the shaft now rotated.

2nd attempt I made a bigger slot and got the remaining unthreaded broken portion of the pin out of the shaft. Still one of the pinion gears was solid to the shaft. 2, then 3 then 5 pound sledge and a brass punch and it wont budge.

3rd attempt I tried heat, and I tried force. Then decisions were made to make it liquid metal with the oxy / acet torch. After the fire it came apart fine. 👍

On the fence whether to use my complete stock backup rear ( with a Detroit locker 7.5 ) and cut it down for the LS brakes and no hop bars. Or just swap the backup rear gearset and locker into the rear still in the car as it's already there with the no-hop bars and LS brakes. Doing it at home on a concrete driveway ( no lift ). Then find my old list of parts for a stout 7.5 and start to build whatever housing is empty.
 
You could also junkyard a 4th gen F-body 7.5 Torsen diff. for a repair.
 
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I thought a carb was bought for it anyways?
I was JK, I'm too stubborn for my own good. I am hoping they decide to give me a Sniper 2 after they look at mine
 
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I was JK, I'm too stubborn for my own good. I am hoping they decide to give me a Sniper 2 after they look at mine
You never know, but, I wouldnt get my hopes up.

They'd likely be afraid you'd try to pin the motor loss and related costs and labor on them if they acknowledged much of anything. I'm sure they prefer to see the unit for inspection, and, also hope you stamped it somewhere to mark it to ensure the one they send back is the same one you sent in.

Easiest way to claim 'everything was fine...' is to sent a visually comparable unit back.

In the meantime, you could just buy a carb and drive it the same afternoon....
 
Did some more tinkering to get the car right, turns out the vacuum line on the transmission came off during install at some point, when I was driving it around I kept telling them it didn't feel right and wasn't wanting to shift. Finally we got that right and seems really strong which is great. The battery is probably shot since it keeps fighting and causing issues, so gonna let it trickle charge up and then bring it to the shop to swap out. The other problem we noticed is some coolant leaks, one from the neck since I reused the almost new gasket which I will get a fully new one and then the lower rad hose clamp which I am going to swap out. Then the more concerning seems there might be a leak at the intake but going to fix the other stuff first and see what it does. But overall seems like she is gonna be ready for some driving, hoping to get a few hundred miles on her before my buddies shop day when I get back from SEMA
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After fighting a driveline vibration since the LS swap, I finally found the culprit with the help of friends. It turned out to be a worn tailshaft extension housing bushing and seal. I never thought to swap them before install, but the bushing definitely had some wear marks.
Got the parts locally last week, swapped and test drove the car Monday evening. Had it up to 80 and smooth as can be which is huge since it had a bad harmonic vibration from 55+.
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