What Did You Do To Your G-Body Today? [2023]

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I see your two problems now....

1) your driver side a/c vent is blocked; and

2) your car isn't wearing its foil hat.

Well........I guess there's a third too, it's carb is missing 😉 (but I know you're thinking long term about that upgrade)

Seriously though, it seems strange to me that all this time you can get it to work on a short run, but then it dies - going all the way back to last year's pizza run, and before that even.
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Just got off the phone with them, they are saying plug wires since the Summit brand doesn't list a specific resistance. Then they want to check the battery ground and if its neither of those they say fans/alternator is a last possibility but he says isn't usually those. Says that it sounds like it dumped either the tune and/or firmware with all the no data's
 
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Just got off the phone with them, they are saying plug wires since the Summit brand doesn't list a specific resistance. Then they want to check the battery ground and if its neither of those they say fans/alternator is a last possibility but he says isn't usually those. Says that it sounds like it dumped either the tune and/or firmware with all the no data's
It's been so long that I don't really remember, but, what is your long term goal with that system anyways? Oh, sure, 'make it run', but, will it be to have the option for nitrous mixed in, or ???
 
Looks like the only thing there for those is a short supplement on 'bi-fuel system service'... because it's about the alternative fuel I'd kind of like to keep that one.

Not sure what kind of bleed-over on the mechanical side any of the other lines would have, S/T, Gvan, M/L, etc...

There WAS a novelty item related to all carlines, one of the Chevy Pro-Service News Series, about 'manual transmission diagnosis'

Bi-fuel, so CNG? I know that was a thing back then.
 
I'd recommend you cut 3 pieces off what's left:

1: a 5 or 6" tall strip starting just below the brake booster hole and up to where the cowl tag attaches, all the way to the left and right where you cut the pillars;

2&3: between outer rocker and into the downwards drop in the floorpan on each side.

Why? Repop floorpans don't go all the way to the rockers, and, some cars rot just above the brake booster or just above the climate box.

Those patches take up almost no room in a garage, but save a lot of fabrication time if you or someone else needs them. Nobody is making them to my knowledge right now.
if I'm understanding you correctly, basically cut off everything above the brake booster hole/cowl tag, and above where the top door hinge mounts, because we don't need it? (like I colored in red)

and then cut off the rockers on both sides, just below the lower door hinge mount, down to the floor pan, because those are needed and not re-pop'd? (like the ones I circled/painted in red)

that will leave me just the two cutoff rockers, and then the essential part of the firewall, which makes a total of 3 pieces. is this correct?

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When I look at my car on the floor pan where it’s rusted and more so the rail going all the way front to back seat area that the floor pan gets attached to inside of the rocker. I would say take all that as a piece because that’s what’s needed that they don’t make yet. The a pillar attaches to the top of the hinge pillar above the top hinge and at the bottom where it curves into the rocker they do make that corner also.
 
Trying to figure out how to get these led turn signals to work. There's 1 set of bulbs in the rear that if I put led into they won't blink. Light comes on in dash and they stay solid lit. I bought the painless 8 something relay with the pig tail. Installed and grounded it to a good ground. The lights are holley retro bright led bulbs. 1157. They will work if the top bulb is an incandescent but if I put the led in it won't blink. I'm stumped. Hopefully someone reads this and knows something I don't. Thankyou
 
if I'm understanding you correctly, basically cut off everything above the brake booster hole/cowl tag, and above where the top door hinge mounts, because we don't need it? (like I colored in red)

and then cut off the rockers on both sides, just below the lower door hinge mount, down to the floor pan, because those are needed and not re-pop'd? (like the ones I circled/painted in red)

that will leave me just the two cutoff rockers, and then the essential part of the firewall, which makes a total of 3 pieces. is this correct?

View attachment 217441
Half right. The rocker areas yes. The cowl, opposite.

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That strip circled in cyan can be two patches, left and right side. Just above the brake booster where the firewall slopes upwards is a rot location. Likewise, where the climate box attaches to the firewall.

I've had a number of cars I ended up parting out with holes just 2 or 3 inches above where the master cylinder passes through the firewall. They were all northern cars, and, every one had sat for at least 2-3 years of time, but, they were also all only about 12-15 years old at the time.
 
It's been so long that I don't really remember, but, what is your long term goal with that system anyways? Oh, sure, 'make it run', but, will it be to have the option for nitrous mixed in, or ???
No just hoping for making it run at this point, happy with it as a cruiser with some power nothing crazy. The Blazer I am building for the powerhouse
 
Followed some more troubleshooting suggested by Holley, tested the block to frame ground and it zeroed out. Tried to upload a tune and update the firmware and they both errored so will be calling them today to see what they say it means..... While I was there I put a new neck and gasket on the intake since the old one would still leak, peaked at the transmission to see why the rpm signal stopped showing on the Dakota but didn't see anything obvious
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