What Did You Do To Your G-Body Today? [2023]

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It's almost like the chroming or polishing process warps or deforms the gasket or seal surface; kind of builds in the leak. The O-ring versions don't depend on the flat surfaces to get their seal so less chance of, "tinkle tinkle, little drip, another leak, now what the flip?"


Nick
 
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It's almost like the chroming or polishing process warps or deforms the gasket or seal surface; kind of builds in the leak. The O-ring versions don't depend on the flat surfaces to get their seal so less chance of, "tinkle tinkle, little drip, another leak, now what the flip?"


Nick
I had a two piece housing that could be rotated to get around my A/C compressor, but it would always leak just a little coolant into the intake manifold valleys as it was cooling down after being at full temperature. It was likely the outer collar was not putting enough pressure onto the center piece.

Typical issues with "designed to a price point" crap.
 
I got tired of my no-name tach not reading at idle and decided to splurge on a nice looking digital tach.

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Did some really sketchy stuff for the hydroboost conversion.
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The upper hole on the pedal is too far up to get a full stroke out of the booster, and the lower hole is too far down.
I’m confident that it’s got good weld penetration (excluding the porosity on the start) , but this feels really hacky.
 
Finally made some headway with the under floor storage in my trailer.

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Tomorrow I'll pull that floor board back out so I can scrape out the remaining glue so it will sit down properly. I think they used 3M window weld to seal the whole deal up when they built it. This will really help to declutter the trailer, I would love to add an upper wall cabinet for fluids and stuff. In the end, the trailer will be better balanced and have way less crap stacked in the nose.
 
Well another failing and amber light on the Hyperspark 2, when I started the car and wanted to let it get to temp to see what it would do I was messing with the some of the stuff that lost memory on the reset. Decide to go look at the motor since it seemed to be running a little rough, then saw that she was leaking a good bit. Tightened it down more than I wanted to but did end up sealing it. Shortly after that the ol girl stalled out and didn't want to start back up again, this time the fuel pump wasn't stuck on prime so it is different than last. I am positive the Dakota not getting a tach signal has something to do with it, but the Sniper is getting the tach signal from the Hyperspark and it does show in the Sniper screen with a tach signal
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Well another failing and amber light on the Hyperspark 2, when I started the car and wanted to let it get to temp to see what it would do I was messing with the some of the stuff that lost memory on the reset. Decide to go look at the motor since it seemed to be running a little rough, then saw that she was leaking a good bit. Tightened it down more than I wanted to but did end up sealing it. Shortly after that the ol girl stalled out and didn't want to start back up again, this time the fuel pump wasn't stuck on prime so it is different than last. I am positive the Dakota not getting a tach signal has something to do with it, but the Sniper is getting the tach signal from the Hyperspark and it does show in the Sniper screen with a tach signal
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The thermostat gaskets that are injected silicone instead of the cardboard type work really well for seeping thermostat housings.

As far as your tach signal works go, is it possible you are getting too strong of a signal at the tach hookup point? I know with an HEI ignition, some things need a 1k resistor inline with the tach signal to keep from high voltage feedback into things that are smarter than a regular tachometer.
 
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