I'm guessing carry in rebuildsJust got off the phone with them, say they can't even do it anymore
What Did You Do To Your G-Body Today? [2023]
- Thread starter 83MonteCarloSS
- Start date
BLACK FRIDAY SPECIAL. Thru 12/2 Everything (Including Calendars!!) in the shop is 20% off. use code BLACKFRIDAY24.
- Status
TH350 is what he had said he wasn't able to do, but I guess could also be that they don't do bench builds. But everyone else seemed to all for the bench build as they called it
Disappointing to hear. It's work & venders can still get parts. Now it makes me think if I ever get another project to use the TH200 4R I have sitting around I won't be able run it down to them.
Yeah a couple of them said that the big companies have bought up all the stock on some stuff
Barked up the compressor and the vacuum and gave the Monte's engine bay a serious dusting and cleaning prior to lifting the cover and using the compressor gun on the engine by itself
All in aid of bringing up my Black and Decker HD Industrial 1/2 drill from the basement and attaching it to the oil pump primer drive that presently resides in the timer boss. Took about 15 minutes of stop and go drill action but all the rockers were receiving oil up the push rods by the time I was done.
This is a periodic exercise that I get to do because the motor isn't wired or plumbed back in to the point where I can hit the key and hear the music. Both the oil in the motor and the filter on the block are new so the oil will continue to get circulated through the galleries and the journals until I can the engine running and then it will be a case of warming the engine up and then doing an immediate oil/filter change.
Then there is still the small matter of the pending cam swap but that is on the sometime later list simply because it isn't necessary to get the engine to run, only to make it happier.
Nick
All in aid of bringing up my Black and Decker HD Industrial 1/2 drill from the basement and attaching it to the oil pump primer drive that presently resides in the timer boss. Took about 15 minutes of stop and go drill action but all the rockers were receiving oil up the push rods by the time I was done.
This is a periodic exercise that I get to do because the motor isn't wired or plumbed back in to the point where I can hit the key and hear the music. Both the oil in the motor and the filter on the block are new so the oil will continue to get circulated through the galleries and the journals until I can the engine running and then it will be a case of warming the engine up and then doing an immediate oil/filter change.
Then there is still the small matter of the pending cam swap but that is on the sometime later list simply because it isn't necessary to get the engine to run, only to make it happier.
Nick
Huh... well, now I dunno about $50, pizza, AND beer. Seems high unless it's fixed...
The grey "silt" on the pan bottom is sediment that to me indicates the friction discs may have just about reached the end of their working lives. Had a 350 TH like that; 1st was okay, 2nd was marginal, and 3rd was fine. You pull away, be in first, hit second, for about 10 seconds at the most, then be in third almost immediately. Had a good T-box waiting for a drop and I waited too long. Kept the box and threw the hulk away. My old 78 M/Carlo.
Would it be simpler to just get a reman or maybe something from the aftermarket or is this a case of wanting to keep that case 'cause it is original to the ride?
Nick
Would it be simpler to just get a reman or maybe something from the aftermarket or is this a case of wanting to keep that case 'cause it is original to the ride?
Nick
Buttoned up the hydroboost plumbing yesterday evening through the storm, thankfully nothing fell apart. I still need a couple of hose clamps and a hold down that fits the master cylinder stud, but it’s done.
Still need to work out some ductwork for the cooler, but that can wait until it runs again.
Moved on and mapped out the locations of the busbars and the main fuse next
The positive busbar is horizontal, the negative one is vertical. Leaves me with enough space in the rear for amplifier fuse holders, but I may put those on the box to keep everything as one unit.
As I was closing up however, I remembered something. The hood was never really lined up, but rather bolted on so it would clear the fenders, however the driver’s side way off. Like a 1/4 inch off, too far back, but the passenger side was only an 1/8 inch back from the front edge of the fender, so I decided to measure.
Came out at 59-3/4 inches to the farthest point on the top of the fender. The passenger was 59-1/2. Took the spare driver’s side out and…
Something’s not right here.
I doubt I’m going to be able to get this straightened out to a satisfactory level, as the fender is already back so far a paint stick barely fits in when the door is opened. Guess I’m going to have to live with this gap until I can find a stock fender, because the spare is rusting in between the spot welds.
Still need to work out some ductwork for the cooler, but that can wait until it runs again.
Moved on and mapped out the locations of the busbars and the main fuse next
The positive busbar is horizontal, the negative one is vertical. Leaves me with enough space in the rear for amplifier fuse holders, but I may put those on the box to keep everything as one unit.
As I was closing up however, I remembered something. The hood was never really lined up, but rather bolted on so it would clear the fenders, however the driver’s side way off. Like a 1/4 inch off, too far back, but the passenger side was only an 1/8 inch back from the front edge of the fender, so I decided to measure.
Came out at 59-3/4 inches to the farthest point on the top of the fender. The passenger was 59-1/2. Took the spare driver’s side out and…
Something’s not right here.
I doubt I’m going to be able to get this straightened out to a satisfactory level, as the fender is already back so far a paint stick barely fits in when the door is opened. Guess I’m going to have to live with this gap until I can find a stock fender, because the spare is rusting in between the spot welds.
Thats where I had kept going back and forth, part of it is that if I change up I would rather go manual in it. But have many other things setup around the way it is, I don't know much about whats in the engine so the converter is a question to me as well. Figured when I send it to get rebuilt they can know more about the converter and what to use. Not to mention its almost half the price and able to get it in almost the same time from the guy that seems to be the best rated around
Got it pulled after work last night, dropped it off this morning. Somehow 3 work days turns into Monday with you know you are in the business with parts supply, which is very possible but also very much used to push dates when you don't want to get it done ASAP. So we will see I am gonna call and follow up on either tomorrow or the day after to see. Gonna order a new oil pan and gasket by days end so I can hopefully have that also ready to go so maybe she won't leak anymore
- Status
BLACK FRIDAY SPECIAL. Thru 12/2 Everything (Including Calendars!!) in the shop is 20% off. use code BLACKFRIDAY24.
Similar threads
