What Did You Do To Your G-Body Today? [2023]
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Went to change my th350 pan gasket for the 5th time, still probably going to seep through the gasket like it always does, but the ****ing gaskets I got from rock auto (victor reinz) didn't have all the hole cut out. Wtf? I've never ever had that happen before. All 3 I got have unpunched holes in different spots.
Can't get nothing that works anymore.
The ones I'm pointing to I sharpied for punching.
Can't get nothing that works anymore.
The ones I'm pointing to I sharpied for punching.
HUH. If'n y'all don't mind me asking, what are you using for gasket adhesive or sealer? For myself, if the gasket is cork, my long time favorite go to has been Permatex Spray a Gasket. Comes in a small spray bomb, shoots sticky/gooey and dries tacky. I have been able to remove gaskets shot with the stuff intact, resprayed them, and re-used them, although my preference is for new whenever possible. Used the Permatex on the pan gasket on my 700R4 and it is still dry. You can see the red of the spray along the edge of the gasket where it peeks out from under the pan rail.
The other thing to look for is the holes in the pan themselves. Being sheet metal they can dimple or deform into a concave shape if the bolts were ever over tightened in a past life. They can be dollied back flat to the pan using the flat face of a ball pein hammer or s small length of rod stock and the same hammer. Having them flat lets the ribs on the pan rail make contact with the gasket first and put on squeeze on it.
One possible option would be a gasket that comes with the holes fitted with sleeves, like the ones available for engine oil pans. The sleeves limit the amount of crush or compression that can be applied to the gasket material and help prevent blowout.
Nick
The other thing to look for is the holes in the pan themselves. Being sheet metal they can dimple or deform into a concave shape if the bolts were ever over tightened in a past life. They can be dollied back flat to the pan using the flat face of a ball pein hammer or s small length of rod stock and the same hammer. Having them flat lets the ribs on the pan rail make contact with the gasket first and put on squeeze on it.
One possible option would be a gasket that comes with the holes fitted with sleeves, like the ones available for engine oil pans. The sleeves limit the amount of crush or compression that can be applied to the gasket material and help prevent blowout.
Nick
Stop messing around cork gasket and buy one of these https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003YLIGI0/?tag=gbody-20
First test drive today, works quite well, only 6 psi boost
ive tried every other type of gasketv rtv, rtv with gasket, different pans, dollying the holes, etc. next time the leak gets bad enough ill try that. better have all the damn holes.
The math I had done for the wheel placement on the rear started bugging me on Monday, and it hit me when I got home from work- I did the wheel offset calculations using the wrong axle measurement! I used a rear that was 3/8 of an inch wider per side, not the 3/4 per side that the Foxbody axle was.
That gave me a projected clearance to the quarter lip of a 1/4 inch.
One sketchy proposal by my father, 2 ratchet straps and 2 blocks of wood later…
Best measurement photo I could get one handed:
And the measurement from the mounting surface of the Ridler 650’s is about 5-3/8 to 5-7/16.
That should give me anywhere from as much as 3/8 of an inch to as little as 5/16 to the edge of the quarter panel.
Good thing I’m only running a 255 and my car’s never going to be dropped beyond 1-1/2 inches….
That gave me a projected clearance to the quarter lip of a 1/4 inch.
One sketchy proposal by my father, 2 ratchet straps and 2 blocks of wood later…
Best measurement photo I could get one handed:
And the measurement from the mounting surface of the Ridler 650’s is about 5-3/8 to 5-7/16.
That should give me anywhere from as much as 3/8 of an inch to as little as 5/16 to the edge of the quarter panel.
Good thing I’m only running a 255 and my car’s never going to be dropped beyond 1-1/2 inches….
Replaced the rollers in the driver’s side window regulator. Still does this:
Everything moves easy, no grit in the tracks, but I’m out if ideas beyond a new regulator.
Welding the bottom brace in the new floor pan tonight and had to remove so much stinking undercoat material, seen a video to scrape off as much as possible and then heat with a torch and then while hot ( not burning ) spray on goo gone and scrub it in with steel wool. Wipe with rag. Works great but caution because goo gone is flammable… ask me how I know. Got to get this nice and clean so I can have a good weld.
Been a little while since I've had mine out because of the rain down here. Went to start it and the battery was just enough juice to not turn over..🙄
Got out on the street and got rolling on the down hill, 3rd gear clutch slip got er going..🤘
Made couple stops to do stuff, everywhere had thumbs up and compliments. Some people like cars. 🙂
Got out on the street and got rolling on the down hill, 3rd gear clutch slip got er going..🤘
Made couple stops to do stuff, everywhere had thumbs up and compliments. Some people like cars. 🙂
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