What did you do to your G-Body today 2024

[Malibu795]

Been fighting losing turn signals off and on.
Put old analog flasher in and I could get the flasher to start/stop wiggling wires..

The connector on the bottom in the picture is the body side, I'm curious to what option(s) my car didn't get. the tan and light green wires in the bottom left that don't have corresponding wires in the other connector what would they power in the steering column?

 

[383_StealthRam]

Been fighting losing turn signals off and on.
Put old analog flasher in and I could get the flasher to start/stop wiggling wires..

The connector on the bottom in the picture is the body side, I'm curious to what option(s) my car didn't get. the tan and light green wires in the bottom left that don't have corresponding wires in the other connector what would they power in the steering column?

View attachment 242024

Ignition Key warning switch for the chime module when you leave key in the ignition and open the door.

GREEN wire comes from chime module, up into the steering column through the little key warning switch contacts (closed with key in) and the TAN wire goes to the driver door jamb switch that's closed when doors open.

I didn't think the KEY IN chime/buzzer was an optional feature but maybe it was depending on the years/model?

Maybe the DIRECTIONAL SWITCH in you steering column is not correct, or been replaced or someone pulled the wires?

Here's a pic what it looks like, the two little metal tangs contact the underside of the DIRECTIONAL SWITCH and into the wiring and connector you're referring to.

 

[UC645]

Busted my rear at work for the last 3 days for some OT, then moved on to fitting the Powermaster starter I bought back in the spring. Fits well, but it grinds when the engine first fires off. I know these gear reduction starters don’t rotate the small amount required to retract the bendix like a direct drive one, but this seems odd. May require an extra shim or two.
With that tackled, I moved back to wet sanding the nose at 10pm:

It didn’t come out half bad, but in the process of sanding the orange peel out, I burned through on the main body line right beneath the lower right of the grill to the rough base that was on these noses to begin with. Couldn’t sand it flat, so I sprayed a small patch, but put a sag in the epoxy since the humidity skyrocketed in the afternoon.

 

[383_StealthRam]

Busted my rear at work for the last 3 days for some OT, then moved on to fitting the Powermaster starter I bought back in the spring. Fits well, but it grinds when the engine first fires off. I know these gear reduction starters don’t rotate the small amount required to retract the bendix like a direct drive one, but this seems odd. May require an extra shim or two.

I hated the powermaster mini starters, never could get the shimming happy, either in/out to the ring gear or to the block. Did all the PM required checks for tooth clearance and it still made weird noises that always sounded terrible.

If this is a SBC with 153 tooth flywheel you may want to think about using a 90's style OEM LT1 starter instead. Buick Roadmaster, Camaros/Firebirds, Impalas, etc..It's a factory mini starter that fits with most headers and retains the nose cone to support the shaft and gear drive. I've had one in my 10.5:1 compression 383 for 8+ yrs with no issues.

There is also a Corvette LT1/LT4 mini gear driven starter from the 90's era that's even better (see below) but I couldn't get it to fit with my ARH headers, and it's not clock-able.

Just something to think about if you ever decide to get rid of the PM starter...figured I'd share my experience.

 

[Sweet_Johnny]

I hated the powermaster mini starters, never could get the shimming happy, either in/out to the ring gear or to the block. Did all the PM required checks for tooth clearance and it still made weird noises that always sounded terrible.

If this is a SBC with 153 tooth flywheel you may want to think about using a 90's style OEM LT1 starter instead. Buick Roadmaster, Camaros/Firebirds, Impalas, etc..It's a factory mini starter that fits with most headers and retains the nose cone to support the shaft and gear drive. I've had one in my 10.5:1 compression 383 for 8+ yrs with no issues.

View attachment 242032

There is also a Corvette LT1/LT4 mini gear driven starter from the 90's era that's even better (see below) but I couldn't get it to fit with my ARH headers, and it's not clock-able.

Just something to think about if you ever decide to get rid of the PM starter...figured I'd share my experience.

View attachment 242031

Don't forget about the special bolts. You need part # 14037733 and the long one is 12338064.

Factory Starter Upgrade

This is one of those topics that has actually been discussed so much that searching can result in enough unrelated information that the good stuff is lost in the mix. So here's just a very quick mention of a few possible upgrades for your SBC starter using factory parts, although I'm sure there...

gbodyforum.com

 

[Rktpwrd]

but in the process of sanding the orange peel out, I burned through on the main body line

Stay away from body lines!!

Whenever I’m sanding up to body lines, I’ll typically run a strip of masking tape right on it (this can be much harder than it sounds), then block sand up to it until there’s nothing left unsanded. Then move the tape to the other side of the line and repeat the process from the other direction. That’s how you end up with razor sharp super straight lines. Then I’ll just scuff over the actual line with some red ScotchBrite for adhesion.

Best part is, there’s no possible way to burn through on the line that way.

 

[383_StealthRam]

Don't forget about the special bolts. You need part # 14037733 and the long one is 12338064.

Factory Starter Upgrade

This is one of those topics that has actually been discussed so much that searching can result in enough unrelated information that the good stuff is lost in the mix. So here's just a very quick mention of a few possible upgrades for your SBC starter using factory parts, although I'm sure there...

gbodyforum.com

Ah yes, great point!! When I bought mine, they actually included the bolts with the starter, that's great info!!

 

[Malibu795]

Ignition Key warning switch for the chime module when you leave key in the ignition and open the door.

GREEN wire comes from chime module, up into the steering column through the little key warning switch contacts (closed with key in) and the TAN wire goes to the driver door jamb switch that's closed when doors open.

I didn't think the KEY IN chime/buzzer was an optional feature but maybe it was depending on the years/model?

Maybe the DIRECTIONAL SWITCH in you steering column is not correct, or been replaced or someone pulled the wires?

Here's a pic what it looks like, the two little metal tangs contact the underside of the DIRECTIONAL SWITCH and into the wiring and connector you're referring to.

View attachment 242027

View attachment 242025

View attachment 242026

Thanks!
For as long as I can remember there was no key buzzer, even before swapping in an aftermarket steering column. Does have courtesy lights that haven't worked in years. FWIW it's a '79 Malibu wagon model.

Used 1/4" blade connectors and connected everyone back up respectively, what's left of my incandescent lights, are now brighter. Definitely lends to the idea Something is broken/corroded in the connection junction that isnt easily visible.

 

[Malibu795]

Busted my rear at work for the last 3 days for some OT, then moved on to fitting the Powermaster starter I bought back in the spring. Fits well, but it grinds when the engine first fires off. I know these gear reduction starters don’t rotate the small amount required to retract the bendix like a direct drive one, but this seems odd. May require an extra shim or two.

I've been running Jegs Hitachi-Style Mini Starter 555-10011 for close 20 years on various SBC/BBC setups with both flexplate and flywheel 153 and 168 tooth variations
Never had to shim any of them.
Also drive gear is/should be beveled to help engaging without grinding.
Or I miss understood and the starter is staying engaged after started for a little bit?

 

[UC645]

I hated the powermaster mini starters, never could get the shimming happy, either in/out to the ring gear or to the block. Did all the PM required checks for tooth clearance and it still made weird noises that always sounded terrible.

If this is a SBC with 153 tooth flywheel you may want to think about using a 90's style OEM LT1 starter instead. Buick Roadmaster, Camaros/Firebirds, Impalas, etc..It's a factory mini starter that fits with most headers and retains the nose cone to support the shaft and gear drive. I've had one in my 10.5:1 compression 383 for 8+ yrs with no issues.

View attachment 242032

There is also a Corvette LT1/LT4 mini gear driven starter from the 90's era that's even better (see below) but I couldn't get it to fit with my ARH headers, and it's not clock-able.

Just something to think about if you ever decide to get rid of the PM starter...figured I'd share my experience.

View attachment 242031

Unfortunately I’m running a 168 tooth flexplate, so I can’t use the LT1 starters. There is the 96-2000 Vortec truck starters though, which I’ll pick up a spare if I can’t get this 9012 Powermaster to work properly.

Stay away from body lines!!

Whenever I’m sanding up to body lines, I’ll typically run a strip of masking tape right on it (this can be much harder than it sounds), then block sand up to it until there’s nothing left unsanded. Then move the tape to the other side of the line and repeat the process from the other direction. That’s how you end up with razor sharp super straight lines. Then I’ll just scuff over the actual line with some red ScotchBrite for adhesion.

Best part is, there’s no possible way to burn through on the line that way.

I think I’ll need a straight jacket to keep me from sanding body lines 🤣

In all seriousness, great tip. I’ll keep that in the back pocket for the other SS nose I’ve got. It needs some straightening out in the body line department, as it saw a repaint at one point with an apprentice going after it with a rabid DA sander….

I've been running Jegs Hitachi-Style Mini Starter 555-10011 for close 20 years on various SBC/BBC setups with both flexplate and flywheel 153 and 168 tooth variations
Never had to shim any of them.
Also drive gear is/should be beveled to help engaging without grinding.
Or I miss understood and the starter is staying engaged after started for a little bit?

No shims had it sounding rough, like it was forcing itself to turn. A 1/32 shim freed it up substantially, although I haven’t checked the backlash on it.

It does sound like it’s staying engaged but it’s only once the engine initially fires, it’s not like it’s continuing to run on.