What did you do to your non-G body project today? [2020]

Status
Not open for further replies.
Yesterday on the '76 F250:
Flushed rad, block, and heater core, new 180 t stat. removed, cleaned, sealed fittings. No more over heating. Should probably be flushed a few more times, but it's fine enough for now.

Lubed window crank thing so driver's window rolls up. Got a junkyard ignition cylinder lock ring thing so my cylinder isn't flopping around in the dash. Flipped air cleaner lid. Drove 70 miles. Does burnouts. Productive birthday.
 
Business partner been driving my van for the last 6 weeks or so as his Fjord is quasi- broke with a bad wheel bearing. Van is an 03 Safari AWD with 350k or so ( 250k mi ) on the clock. Noticed dribbling coolant when parked so the bench racer in me ( havent done much other than pop the hood ) figures the water pump needs to be replaced. Really what else could it be ? It took a quart of coolant to top off the reservoir and the rad was only down 3 inches or so.

So I guess that I will be swapping a pump and draining a 6 pack as my Friday afternoon project. As much as I want to dislike that man-van it has been damn loyal for the last 14 or so years.
 
Had my garage monkey help me build a platform for the rack. 4x8 3/4" maple plywood over a couple of 1/2" 4x8 sheets of OSB for weight and rigidity. Some light grey stain and a couple coats of satin polyurethane to seal it.

IMG_20200921_165914.jpg


IMG_20200921_170829.jpg


IMG_20200921_183348.jpg


IMG_20200926_122443.jpg


FedEx is late with my barbell. I need to make a call.
 
Last edited:
Yesterday on the '76 F250:
Flushed rad, block, and heater core, new 180 t stat. removed, cleaned, sealed fittings. No more over heating. Should probably be flushed a few more times, but it's fine enough for now.

Lubed window crank thing so driver's window rolls up. Got a junkyard ignition cylinder lock ring thing so my cylinder isn't flopping around in the dash. Flipped air cleaner lid. Drove 70 miles. Does burnouts. Productive birthday.
Happy belated birthday!
 
I built a jig on my fab table to test/validate a 2-link rear suspension set-up I'm doing that will possibly replace the leaf springs on my '99 OBS Chevy truck. I had been going back & forth w/a guy on one of my other sites regarding the inherent binding the 'common' 2-link kits have (that use rubber or poly front bushings) vs. how I'm setting up this one.

He was respectfully (?) trying to tell me I was wrong & that my set-up will bind just like a rubber/poly bushed set-up will. In my head I felt the changes would allow bind-free articulation (within limits) so I needed to prove-out the set-up. A good day as it worked as hoped.
 
Twilight Zone time as most of this happened on Wednesday/Thursday as I got called in for Friday. The S-!0 finally made it back onto four wheels and the lug-nuts got some love from a torque wrench. Re-armed the electrical systems by putting the battery back on line. Re-installed the driver's inner door panel and slugged the lower door pin clip into place on the pin. Put the 47 Indian Hub back into my cardboard spray booth and shot the clear top coat; let that dry overnight before moving that little item back to the basement for safe keeping.

Got the last of the multiple coats of paint that I threw at the bottom of the cabin and frame done on Wednesday; warm day and great for watching the paint dry. Thursday was colder so glad I did the work the day before. Gave my lungs a chance to cough up some of the crap that had been loading them up. Changed the frame on my painting mask from a small to a medium and it seems to do a better job of covering my mouth-nose-face from the infiltration of dust and fumes. Still hate painting frames and floors because you are laying there and shooting up and all the dust blow-by from the shot is sifting down on top of you. Once I rotate the truck out of Bay One, I will have to take a broom and vacuum to the floor to get all the crud off it before I bring my other G-Body back in for service and storage for the winter.

Tomorrow I will have to key up the truck and let the systems relearn themselves. The computers never really forget but they will have to do self diagnostics and a reboot before I will attempt to fire the truck up. Will also have to go through the forward-reverse shift sequence to allow the transmission to remember itself as well. After that it will be a short hot lap around the block at a slow rate of speed to get the truck reconciled to being driven again and to see if the master caution for the brakes comes back. If that is still active then it is off to the brake shop for a new brake booster. I've done them on the Monte and the Van and the S-10 is so tight under the dash that you almost need a little person or a pygmy to get under there to get to the stud nuts. For that I will pay someone; keeps them working so it helps the economy and keeps me from having to pay for a chiropractor.

Nick
 
Ah, you using spherical rod ends instead of rubber or poly-u bushings? What had you planned to employ to limit side to side displacement of the diff/rear end, watts linkage or some kind of location cross-shaft? Those sphericals the rebuildable kind that have the nylon or delran inserts that protect the sphere from dust and debris?


Nick
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

GBodyForum is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to amazon.com. Amazon, the Amazon logo, AmazonSupply, and the AmazonSupply logo are trademarks of Amazon.com, Inc. or its affiliates.

Please support GBodyForum Sponsors

Classic Truck Consoles Dixie Restoration Depot UMI Performance

Contact [email protected] for info on becoming a sponsor