What did you do to your non-G body project today? [2020]

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I've been working on one of my trucks. It has a moderately modified frame w/a bunch of aftermarket upgrades: Long wheel base frame cut down to a short wheel base; Z'd rear frame section; Porterbuilt front Dropmember; Ridetech a-arms; Slam Spec. bags; & Bilstein shocks.

As I built the frame, I designed the rear suspension set-up to be able to utilize air-bag/shock combo or coil-overs. The bags (air-springs) go in the OE truck-arm location & the rear shocks were set-up using an A/G-body configuration. The shock mounts were set-up so I could run the Bilsteins or swap over to similar dimension coil-overs.

I'm now making changes to allow the same flexibility of running either an air-spring/shock combo or coil-over on the front suspension. I have to make new upper air bag 'locating' plates that can be bolted to the upper 'spring/a-arm' mounts because part of the mount that positions the air spring needs to be cut away for C/O clearance. I'll be trimming back the current mount to allow clearance for the coil-over spring & shock combo. I made the templates for the upper C/O mount & the base the mount will attach to. The plan is the C/O bracket will be bolted in utilizing the existing upper 'spring/a-arm' mount hardware.

This week I'll work on getting the templates transferred & cut from some .250" material.
 

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Worked on my daughter's 14' Malibu that has a leak in the firewall. The front driver side was soaked under the carpet, had too wring out the sound deadener and set a couple fans in it to dry things out. So after slumping down under the driver side dash and having my wife water the car down I narrowed it down to one seam that goes up pretty high under the dash. I sealed it best I could under the dash and decided to seal it from the outside as well to be sure no water will be held up in any cavity and rotting the firewall out. I pulled the tire and inner fender well off to get a look but found the area where the leak originates is a structural beam with little access but for a couple holes for drainage from the windshield. So off came the fender for better access to the area. I drilled one 5/8" hole on the side of the frame box so I could get a better look at the inside of the box. Used a 1/4" steal rod with a hook at the end and loaded it up with 3m 5200 urethane sealer several times and smeared it around every seam I could make out inside the area. It was time consuming and tedious work but I think I got it all covered. Letting it set until tomorrow after work. I'll roll it out and water it down again and see if the water comes in. Hopefully this is the fix and I can start putting the car back together tomorrow evening and finish it Tuesday night if need be. I have a trailer hitch and wiring to install Wednesday if possible.

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i swapped the open end 2.94 gears out for a 3.23 sure grip center section. also put new axles in. when i originally ordered the converter for the car it was built for a 3.23 gear that i knew was going to go in sooner or later. the axles i took out were mopar c-body axles cut down to a-body size by moser about 25 years ago. figured the rear was the only thing not gone through when i did the 360 a few years ago, so i may as well do it when i swap gears. have had all the parts laying around for about 2 years now. being that everything is closed and we really aren't supposed to be out and about with this virus blowing through the states it was a good time to do it..



peg leg out:

View attachment 140636



sure grip ready to go in:

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old axles:

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and man does this smell awful. worse then the gear oil itself..lol its good stuff though..

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back on all fours.. test ride whenever it stops raining..

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still have to put the proper speedo gear in. test drive first though..

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So um??? What you going to do with the old axels?
 
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