What did you do to your non-G body project today? [2021]
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Instead of working on the Blazer, I ran out to get some front seats to get reupholstered with the door panel inserts but ended up with the complete door panels. Kind of frustrated that I haven't got a message back about ordering the turbo, since Uncle Sam gave me my money its burning a hole in my pocket. Since Atech isn't giving much of a discount, I am waiting to hear back from VS Racing. With my luck I am worried I pull the trigger and then they run a tax return special
That Mevotech TTX set-up does look well thought out. The studs in the backing plate arrangement seems it would add support @ the flange area.
Getting some details finished out for the big crunch to be done before car season, my buddy is confident we can get the motor in quickly to test it and then I am trying to get some manifolds/headers that will be a cheater way to run the turb and get it all done much quicker than fabbing it ourselves. So wanted to get the seats rolling so they will be done in time which required me getting with the guy I get to do all my emblems and custom touches. So he got me a first sketch which I am changing slightly but gives the seat guy an idea for embroidering. So my plan is to mimic the Syclone seats but go dark grey with teal piping and embroidery. Debating on if the teal stitch would be taking it too far which I think it does....
Re; auto to manual swap posted above, what transmission to what motor in what car?????Hydraulic Clutch or Z-Bar and rods? Factory third pedal or aftermarket kit?
You'd have to run a search engine for this site but there ought to be pictures sitting somewhere of several third pedal installs including mine. As an FYI, the transmission i installed was a Muncie, the clutch pedal and linkages are stock-ish and the shifter is a Hurst Competition Plus that I snatched from a salvage yard corpse.
Nick
You'd have to run a search engine for this site but there ought to be pictures sitting somewhere of several third pedal installs including mine. As an FYI, the transmission i installed was a Muncie, the clutch pedal and linkages are stock-ish and the shifter is a Hurst Competition Plus that I snatched from a salvage yard corpse.
Nick
Went back to the fairing and finished cutting away the old glass from the location for the old bottom mounting stud to get a smooth curve to the inner surface. This gives me a solid foundation to rebuild the curve using new glass and resin. Will probably visit the other side and perform the same exercise, and hopefully get the same results. Because of how I designed them the first time, the studs got harvested and will be re-used. It's a lot of futzing around but necessary if I want to return to the vintage mounting plates.
Lathe lost high range a few months ago.
It's a 16 speed and I lost 8 of the high speeds so I can only spin 390 RPM which is too slow for me. Pretty sure it snapped a key that tie the countershaft gear to the range shaft.
Problem is the mfg. service manual doesn't do exploded views and I'm not sure exactly how it comes apart, so I am going in blind.
I decided it's easier for me to go in and try to fix it than it would be to resurrect some deceased machine tool mechanic from 1954. I might have to dust off my membership to the Practical Machinist forum and ask the grumpy machinists over there.
Belt, clutch, and belt guard removed
1st gear is off, this is the one that isnt broken
And here is my problem. The gear the screwdriver is on rotates freely on the splined 'A' shaft that the shift collar sits on. I need to pull that entire shaft out but damn, it's snug in there! I can't figure out how to get the input shaft removed and the 'B' shaft has like 8 gears and is 3ft long so I was hoping I didn't have to pull that out, but I don't think I will be lucky.
It's a 16 speed and I lost 8 of the high speeds so I can only spin 390 RPM which is too slow for me. Pretty sure it snapped a key that tie the countershaft gear to the range shaft.
Problem is the mfg. service manual doesn't do exploded views and I'm not sure exactly how it comes apart, so I am going in blind.
I decided it's easier for me to go in and try to fix it than it would be to resurrect some deceased machine tool mechanic from 1954. I might have to dust off my membership to the Practical Machinist forum and ask the grumpy machinists over there.
Belt, clutch, and belt guard removed
1st gear is off, this is the one that isnt broken
And here is my problem. The gear the screwdriver is on rotates freely on the splined 'A' shaft that the shift collar sits on. I need to pull that entire shaft out but damn, it's snug in there! I can't figure out how to get the input shaft removed and the 'B' shaft has like 8 gears and is 3ft long so I was hoping I didn't have to pull that out, but I don't think I will be lucky.
Grumpy machinist forum came in clutch and a video was suggested that shows the disassembly and resto of a similar model to mine.
The answer isn't what I want to hear, but at least I know. I need to replace this key.
I just need to get to this phase to get there
What would we do without Youtube?
The answer isn't what I want to hear, but at least I know. I need to replace this key.
I just need to get to this phase to get there
What would we do without Youtube?
Cool project! It makes tearing down a 4-speed or even a T-56 look pretty soft.
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