Close enough that we have a winner!
It's actually the Yukon XL which is just as well, gmc styling cues always looks a little better IMO even though they're almost the same trucks.
What did you do to your non-G body project today? [2021]
- Thread starter 500/600
- Start date
- Status
It's actually the Yukon XL which is just as well, gmc styling cues always looks a little better IMO even though they're almost the same trucks.
So 8.1 then, yeah? I was thinking that's close to what my 1500 would put down, so what are the mods?
Congratulations. I agree with you on the GMC styling being nicer, especially on the GMT800's.
I'll need to read through the paperwork to see what I can parse out. Does appear to involve exhaust work, larger airbox, things like that at a minimum...
It came from a dealer who didn't know what they had (I have to assume) based on price and I didnt want to give then a chance to plback our or change minds based on everything I was looking into... gave it a quick basic safety run through its paces - literally fluids, exhaust, ball joints, tie rods, engine code scan, warm up engine, check pressure at idle, and test cold/hot trans shifts. Then it was "take my money" - probably spent 5 minutes with the truck and left it running while doing paperwork and checking back for noises/psi and codes lol
Wrapped up reassembling the lathe this weekend.
Found some key material at work that's really close (belt sander to size) and a shcs to replace the bent pin I messed up when removing.
Ended up using 2/3 roll of blue shop towels to soak up all worst of the old oil in the low spots that wouldn't drain and flushed about a liter of diesel through the case to knock all the heavy metallic deposits off.
Cleaned the OD and ID of the mating gear and shaft that had broken and galled and inspected and cleaned all the bearings and gears I removed.
Filled the case with about a gallon and half of iso68 hydraulic oil and test shifted through all the gears along with doing a clutch adjustment.
Runs good now and it's good to know the headstock is clean and good for another 20 years or so to break into the century club ,2041 isn't far away 😉
Found some key material at work that's really close (belt sander to size) and a shcs to replace the bent pin I messed up when removing.
Ended up using 2/3 roll of blue shop towels to soak up all worst of the old oil in the low spots that wouldn't drain and flushed about a liter of diesel through the case to knock all the heavy metallic deposits off.
Cleaned the OD and ID of the mating gear and shaft that had broken and galled and inspected and cleaned all the bearings and gears I removed.
Filled the case with about a gallon and half of iso68 hydraulic oil and test shifted through all the gears along with doing a clutch adjustment.
Runs good now and it's good to know the headstock is clean and good for another 20 years or so to break into the century club ,2041 isn't far away 😉
So, a few pictures. These first two are of the progress on the re-attachment of the lower studs on my vintage fairing. What you see is the studs relocated and epoxied into place with a perimeter layer of epoxy added to build up the perimeter edges. Once cured, this will be shaved smooth and either a layer of glass or the micro-mesh added for more strength (Maybe both) The reddish pink fields behind the studs are the areas that had to be relaid using glass mat and resin to restore the original shape.
And this is my adhoc jig that I created using the fairing stanchions and two lengths of thread rod along with nuts and washers that I used to set and fix the correct internal dimensions between the rails. This gave me the precise locations for the two lower studs and held them in place while the initial coat of epoxy cured.
Finally, just a shot of the micro mesh for anyone wondering what I was trying to describe. Not sure where this came from or when I go it but it has been sitting around for a while for some reason that has become no longer relevant and probably just as well.
As before, I am going to let the epoxy cure overnight; the max time suggested by the instructions. While it is comfortable in the shop the temperature is no where near what is suggested as being optimal for fast hardening. Being catalysed it will cure no matter what; just that it take longer. No plans for a long vacation so.............
Nick
I've got to ask... I've heard the older hydraulic oil gets, the worse it smells overtaking what you smell in a differential. (Bacterial growth potential and all?)
How old was the oil in the lathe and how bad was it?
Got all but one last little detail done on the front lighting of the Blazer, finished up the trim rings so you don't see the core support when its done. Then moved on to making it so the DRL/turn signals plug in to factory and then ran a line to also run the connector for the headlight to also light for the turn signal. The thing I didn't get to is replacing the rubber I am using since I don't like the way it looks, I used some old conveyor belt that we use to make mud flaps for the big trucks. It probably won't be seen but I want to find something all black so it blends in. Since it was around 10p on Friday I decided to call it a day on that, since I came down to the shop yesterday to sell a few things for the boss.
I decided to start into the prettying of the interior, starting with the door panels, got it off and now need to get the insert off to send with the seats. I figured while I was at it I am pulling the insert that has the window controls and door handle to wrap it the same as I am wrapping the bottom carpet. I am going to use the leftovers I have from the Monte and then paint the rest of the panel black so that the little details pop.
I decided to start into the prettying of the interior, starting with the door panels, got it off and now need to get the insert off to send with the seats. I figured while I was at it I am pulling the insert that has the window controls and door handle to wrap it the same as I am wrapping the bottom carpet. I am going to use the leftovers I have from the Monte and then paint the rest of the panel black so that the little details pop.
My buddy and I have added a little oil once or twice over the past 5 years I have owned it and you could definitely tell the old oil vs the new oil. There is a lot of gear 'mixing' action when it's running and the oil was not mixed well so the old vs. new didn't agree with each other.
The new oil was in a layer on the top that was nice and clear and the stuff at the bottom was deep brown with a decent amount of metallic glitter in it. The old stuff that had settled to the bottom was really thick and slimey.
The old stuff didn't really smell. I would estimate it was at least 15 years old as I have never done a flush on it and it sat for a minimum of 10 years before that.
There was no sign of previous disassembly but I can't imagine it was original 80 year oil in the bottom.
- Status
Similar threads
