Nothing of mine getting done tonight. Both Arkady and Sam told me to go home and don't work on the truck until the weekend it's hot and I work to hard. Never have I ever heard that from a boss. It feels good to be appreciated. That doesn't happen often in body shops. However I did call XPD today they don't test Duramax injectors anymore and they don't work on cp3 pumps ether. So I called garden State diesel. It's $40 each to test the injectors and they were supposed to call me back about the cp3 and they didn't. The cp3 I have I took out of the bag today and it doesn't turn so I guess it's a core and I'll buy a remanufactured one. I've found them online around 5-600 with about a $500 core charge I'm just not sure what to do? Again I'm not a diesel mechanic or a mechanic for that matter.
What did you do to your non-G body project today? [2022]
- Thread starter g0thiac
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I'll keep my eyes peeled for some. Thanks for the heads up.
I like that picture. Nice and clean and clearly shows what goes where and how it all should look like. Gives me a clear idea on how topside on my own LS^ manifold ought to appear. THANKS.
So I guess today is summary day. Summarily, yesterday I was finally able to slither underneath the S-10 and release the passenger's side brake line from all the factory clamps and retainers and wiggle, twitch and encourage it to come out. With that out of the way, I could then take a chipping hammer to the frame and clean off all the accumulated crud and debris from previous rust coating efforts and then mount a fresh new cup wheel to the 4.5 and raise a lot of dusty hell getting down to the bare metal. The scenario was a case of Chip, chip chip, apply wire wheel, lather rinse and repeat. Got it all down to where I was happy with the result. Hung the long end off the air line and used the compressor to blow all the debris out the door. Dug around with a broom into all the cracks and crevises and swept up the leftovers and blew them out into the back lane as well.
Got out the bottle of SEM Rust Mort and applied a good soggy layer of the stuff to the frame and the stand off bracket for the brake hose. Let that all dry overnight.
Went back in after supper, used a piece of string to figure out the overall length of the old brake line, 84 and an 1/8th inches and used the string to measure a new section of line from the bulk roll and then cut it to size; plus an additional inch or so. NiCop, Nickel/Copper brake line is harder than standard steel line and does not accept tight curves or bends easily, so a little extra tube helps to achieve a smooth radius when doing curves.
Put in a few more hours this PM and applied a layer of POR15 over the Rust Mort. And, again ,letting it dry overnight. Tomorrow will be a coat of Anti-rust paint, Krylon, and then a top coat of the Duplicolor.; same as the driver's side. While it all dries, I can use the old line as a template for bending and curving the new one. I may only bend the line just as much as i need to have it bent to get it to drop into the basic location and then adjust and add more bends to complete the install rather than doing a complete shape and having to fight it into position.
Finally put the Chum-me seat pan back on the welding table and dremeled out a couple of the pan metal tears that i thought needed some more repair. it looks like I may have to make a seat mounting Tee Bracket from scratch so started on that as well.
Finished the day by taking a sod edging tool and cutting away the clover-hang that was encroaching on the slabs of my quarter desk. More debris for the over the fence pile.
Nick
So I guess today is summary day. Summarily, yesterday I was finally able to slither underneath the S-10 and release the passenger's side brake line from all the factory clamps and retainers and wiggle, twitch and encourage it to come out. With that out of the way, I could then take a chipping hammer to the frame and clean off all the accumulated crud and debris from previous rust coating efforts and then mount a fresh new cup wheel to the 4.5 and raise a lot of dusty hell getting down to the bare metal. The scenario was a case of Chip, chip chip, apply wire wheel, lather rinse and repeat. Got it all down to where I was happy with the result. Hung the long end off the air line and used the compressor to blow all the debris out the door. Dug around with a broom into all the cracks and crevises and swept up the leftovers and blew them out into the back lane as well.
Got out the bottle of SEM Rust Mort and applied a good soggy layer of the stuff to the frame and the stand off bracket for the brake hose. Let that all dry overnight.
Went back in after supper, used a piece of string to figure out the overall length of the old brake line, 84 and an 1/8th inches and used the string to measure a new section of line from the bulk roll and then cut it to size; plus an additional inch or so. NiCop, Nickel/Copper brake line is harder than standard steel line and does not accept tight curves or bends easily, so a little extra tube helps to achieve a smooth radius when doing curves.
Put in a few more hours this PM and applied a layer of POR15 over the Rust Mort. And, again ,letting it dry overnight. Tomorrow will be a coat of Anti-rust paint, Krylon, and then a top coat of the Duplicolor.; same as the driver's side. While it all dries, I can use the old line as a template for bending and curving the new one. I may only bend the line just as much as i need to have it bent to get it to drop into the basic location and then adjust and add more bends to complete the install rather than doing a complete shape and having to fight it into position.
Finally put the Chum-me seat pan back on the welding table and dremeled out a couple of the pan metal tears that i thought needed some more repair. it looks like I may have to make a seat mounting Tee Bracket from scratch so started on that as well.
Finished the day by taking a sod edging tool and cutting away the clover-hang that was encroaching on the slabs of my quarter desk. More debris for the over the fence pile.
Nick
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My picture above? That was cropped to focus on the coils, I have full pics also.
My OCD is neat and tidy, keeps it simple. 🙂
Well I'm ordering another $1000 or so in parts today. This is a rabbit hole without end. On my list is.
1 remanufactured cp3 pump
1 full set coolant hoses.
1 cp4 to cp3 conversion kit
1 new air filter for the stock air box
So I'm a bit over $1000 that I don't have but who's counting. I've already maxed 1 credit card between the cutlass the Camaro and the truck and still have nothing to drive. Today I'm cleaning and painting parts. Because at least I'm sure how to do that correctly
1 remanufactured cp3 pump
1 full set coolant hoses.
1 cp4 to cp3 conversion kit
1 new air filter for the stock air box
So I'm a bit over $1000 that I don't have but who's counting. I've already maxed 1 credit card between the cutlass the Camaro and the truck and still have nothing to drive. Today I'm cleaning and painting parts. Because at least I'm sure how to do that correctly
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Get this thing up and running right and you'll pay it off plowing a couple storms this winter
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