What did you do to your non-G body project today? [2022]

[joesregalproject]

In addition to getting the exhaust brake hooked up on my Dodge, I got my Dad's Mazda ready for inspection. It got new four new tires, two new front wheel bearings, new front brake pads, and I replaced a blown exhaust gasket. I wanted to put new front rotors on it as well but my Dad is notoriously cheap when it comes to cars and the current ones will still pass so they are staying for now. I used Timken for the wheel bearings, they seemed like the best choice between price and quality. Tires are a set of blemish General Altimax RT43s. New pads are Wagner Thermoquiets. I wanted him to get Akebonos, but these were cheaper and I've never had issues with Thermoquiets in the past. It needs a new rear coil spring; a 3 inch piece broke off the bottom of the right side a few months ago. I've tried ordering it online and from several Mazda dealers and apparently they have been on backorder for months so who knows when it might come in.

 

[Ugly1]

In addition to getting the exhaust brake hooked up on my Dodge, I got my Dad's Mazda ready for inspection. It got new four new tires, two new front wheel bearings, new front brake pads, and I replaced a blown exhaust gasket. I wanted to put new front rotors on it as well but my Dad is notoriously cheap when it comes to cars and the current ones will still pass so they are staying for now. I used Timken for the wheel bearings, they seemed like the best choice between price and quality. Tires are a set of blemish General Altimax RT43s. New pads are Wagner Thermoquiets. I wanted him to get Akebonos, but these were cheaper and I've never had issues with Thermoquiets in the past. It needs a new rear coil spring; a 3 inch piece broke off the bottom of the right side a few months ago. I've tried ordering it online and from several Mazda dealers and apparently they have been on backorder for months so who knows when it might come in.

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What year is it? Can you go salvage yard? Or Rocket Auto, or even a moog dealer?

 

[Ugly1]

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So these first three pictures show that Indian wheel post disassembly. The keen eyed will have noted the green masking tape on the bundles of spokes and, for the curious, Indian used spokes of various lengths that were installed according to a particular lacing plan and pattern. Even though these spokes are rusty and corroded, they are original, and someone doing a restoration could theoretically rehab them and build a correct wheel with them.


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What makes them so unique is the nipples to which these spokes were mated. They are the .343 diameter version which is war era and the older style. The rim itself bears the stamping of its Manufacturer, Kelsey-Hayes, as well as its size, tire spec, and year of mfg, that being in 1947!


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And here is why this wheel would have had to have been disassembled no matter what. At some point in its life it must have been introduced to a curb or shoulder or maybe in an accident because the location where the rim id can be found is also the site of the damage that was done to it. The shoulder of the rim is both peeled back and flattened and you can see the marks on the edge where it took a beating. For this rim to be re-used it would need to be sent to the chromers and stripped down to the bare metal just to be inspected to see how badly deteriorated it has become.. Then it would have to be introduced to a heavy grade dead blow hammer and tweaked back into shape and that verified by a dial indicator. Should it get past all that, then it would have to be rechromed and fitted with a rebuilt hub and new spokes. And you wonder why the 100 point restorations cost so much to create.



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Finally, my first choice for instrument of destruction, ah, disassembly. One of the first and oldest tools in my master tool chest, this is a Lisle hammer driven impact driver, a tool that I mentioned in another thread as being useful for "persuading" bolts and nuts to cooperate when they don't want to. The actuator for it was that copper headed heavy hammer shown above, and heavy is not a misprint. it has some serious heft to it and the long handle delivers more strike force at impact with whatever,.

Last shot is my portable vise doing what it does best. In this case It is holding a removable work surface that I used as a clamping base to hold the wheel while I reasoned with it using the impact driver and the copper heavy. To encourage the wheel to stay put, I employed the services of a pair of vice grips (not pictured, we all know what they look like?1?1/) What you see resting on the surface as a show and tell is the hub from that wheel. As I compose this, that hub is resting in a bowl of EvapoRust in which it will remain for a day or so, then get flipped over to do the other end. Once all the crud has been dissolved, I can get a better idea of its condition. Just as it is, it looks like I have a good useable spare for the shelf. The next??? project along this line is for me to rebuild the hub that I just painted and lace it to a !9 inch Dunlop rim, all to be installed on my 47. Yeah, I'm that old.

Glass beading and paint? Or you getting it rechromed?

 

[ck80]

In addition to getting the exhaust brake hooked up on my Dodge, I got my Dad's Mazda ready for inspection. It got new four new tires, two new front wheel bearings, new front brake pads, and I replaced a blown exhaust gasket. I wanted to put new front rotors on it as well but my Dad is notoriously cheap when it comes to cars and the current ones will still pass so they are staying for now. I used Timken for the wheel bearings, they seemed like the best choice between price and quality. Tires are a set of blemish General Altimax RT43s. New pads are Wagner Thermoquiets. I wanted him to get Akebonos, but these were cheaper and I've never had issues with Thermoquiets in the past. It needs a new rear coil spring; a 3 inch piece broke off the bottom of the right side a few months ago. I've tried ordering it online and from several Mazda dealers and apparently they have been on backorder for months so who knows when it might come in.

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Are rubber spacers still inspection-acceptable?

When I was in mass half a lifetime ago it was, so, it's what we did on one car instead of replacing its springs.

 

[joesregalproject]

What year is it? Can you go salvage yard? Or Rocket Auto, or even a moog dealer?

No aftermarket option that I've found unless you want lowering springs which my dad doesn't. Junkyard ones are all in the same shape. There was a TSB on them for cracking like this one did. I'm not sure what the dealers are doing but I know they need these coils too. I thought they were giving me a BS story about them being backordered until I called several other dealers who told me the same thing.

Are rubber spacers still inspection-acceptable?

When I was in mass half a lifetime ago it was, so, it's what we did on one car instead of replacing its springs.

Like those little x shaped ones? I wouldn't imagine they'd let those pass, I certainly wouldn't if it was me doing the inspection. The good thing is the car doesn't have a noticeable sag and the ride seems unaffected. You'd have to be really looking to notice the spring was broken.

 

[CopperNick]

what exactly does the molasses do? I'm assuming it's used to remove layers of grunge, etc, but how exactly would molasses do that?

The whole molasses and water shtick actually came to my attention from a post somewhere on this forum, if memory serves. I ran a search on it and found a group of videos that discussed it and how well it worked. The main component is the molasses but I have to point out that this is not the stuff you pour on your flapjacks. This molasses is designated as being "feed grade". What that means is that the stuff is used agriculturally to "sweeten" or augment the feed used by farmers and ranchers for livestock. The manager at my local feed store mentioned that he used it in place of water to keep the grain dust down, so it is sort of a type of explosion mitigant. The important thing about it is that it is acidic to some extent and active enough to "eat" rust and corrosion. As a by product it is also eco-friendly. One user actually suggested just digging a hole in the ground and lining it with heavy plastic to create a container. Once the job was done, just remove the plastic and let the molasses mixture be absorbed by the ground; either that or it can be dumped down the sewer. Apparently it is also quite pungent in smell which is one reason that I have not decanted any of it into the wading pool. The last thing I need is the cops to come wandering by because some goody two-shoes dropped a dime on me for illegal boot legging.



Nick

 

[ck80]

Like those little x shaped ones? I wouldn't imagine they'd let those pass, I certainly wouldn't if it was me doing the inspection. The good thing is the car doesn't have a noticeable sag and the ride seems unaffected. You'd have to be really looking to notice the spring was broken.

I was thinking more like the little disc shaped ones, you add the on the end of the spring. I think the make adjustable metal ones now too that you weld to lock height in when you get where you want.

 

[CopperNick]

Glass beading and paint? Or you getting it rechromed?

Neither, or none of the above. While it isn't junk as such, it does need a level of rehabilitation that is beyond the depth of my wallet to provide. it would have to be sent out to a chromer to get it stripped and then returned to me incomplete to be straightened. Just to get the stripping done is a high ticket invoice as chromers are an endangered species due to being actively hunted by eco-terrorist tree huggers. I suppose I could rig some kind of voltaic gizmo using a plastic tote box and a battery/sacrificial anode device but getting rid of the afterbirth is problematic. Even with the chrome gone, there is still the rust and corrosion to be dealt with and if that has gone too deep then what I end up is wall art. The same holds true for the spokes and nipples. Like i commented, a professional restorer would possess the equipment to do the work needed. That ain't me.



Nick

 

[Wageslave]

It's a new world for me. I've always preferred the gear drive units, not just cheaper but generally more durable IMO.

I generally prefer a gear drive myself, but my stepdaughter does quality control at Hydrogear so I have a little respect for the hydro units.

 

[ck80]

I generally prefer a gear drive myself, but my stepdaughter does quality control at Hydrogear so I have a little respect for the hydro units.

When I learned, I learned on a gear drive deere.... hst weren't a thing yet.

When I bought my own first tractor, I bought a gear drive. Now, when I first hurt my back I went out and bought a shiny new d170 that had bells and whistles for the wife to just mow the lawn since I couldn't. Thought itd both nake it easier and more likely she would mind less.. It had lumbar, it had power ports to charge things, it had multiple cup holders, gas gauge, mounts for enclosures and sun shades, deck washes, even tubular bumpers. You name it.

Would you believe she hated it? She wanted my old beat up no options no frills gear drive to use and rathered use the clutch.

Flip side - same.girl won't even try to learn to drive a manual transmission, and doesn't like my 'low option' old trucks to drive.

Go figure.?.?