What did you do to your non-G body project today? [2022]

[Clone TIE Pilot]

Got around to repairing the rear motor block for my G scale RS3 diesel locomotive. The small circuit board that has noise suppression capacitors for the electric motor broke off the contacts. Managed to resolder the board back, but when I went to put the housing back together the stupid housing screws began to strip out. So I have to order and wait for a set of miniture metric screws to finish the job. So many philip screws are way too soft and round out easy.

 

[Supercharged111]

I have not, that one just shows signs of lack of lubrication the way it looks. What fluid you running?

Valvoline Dex/Merc.

 

[Built6spdMCSS]

Valvoline Dex/Merc.

I've always used DEX III because that's the spec for it.

 

[Supercharged111]

I've always used DEX III because that's the spec for it.

From my understanding, that's what the Dex/Merc is. Not trying to run a synthetic or Dex6.

 

[Built6spdMCSS]

Yea these definitely do not like synthetic.

 

[CopperNick]

Yo, Meester Sony, By chance have you done the earth worm shuffle and checked your fuel line at anywhere along its length where there is a rubber section inserted? Old rubber hose can look okay but be collapsed or gone stupid internally causing a block. Also, have you ever taken a peek into the tank and done a crud presence analysis? Tank pickup might be starving do to crud infestation. Oh yeah, what about the tank vent or a return line on the carb? They doing what they oughtta? I do agree about the fuel starvation but wondering if it is elsewhere in the system and what you are getting is a symptom of issues occurring else-place.



Nick

 

[MrSony]

I want to know how many miles are on that engine? I bet money it has more miles on it than any small block Chevy's or MrSony built Buick engine would have on it. FE Ford's wher good engines.

It's hard to say. The odo read 94k when I bought it two years ago. Could be actual, 194, or 294. I've put at least 11k on it (might be a little less, speedo is 5mph off). It still has a 390, when I bought it it still had most if not all of its original ignition parts, water pump, radiator, etc. For what it's worth, yes it's a giant pile of sh*t and I hate it. But it is probably the best 1200 I've ever spent. Granted it uses/eats/leaks a quart of oil every 40 miles now, but that's what the spare 390 is for. I've run it so low on oil constantly and it doesn't care. There's been times where I've had to pour used oil, two stroke oil, even atf in it to have enough lube to get home. This engine is on its last toe of its last leg, but I'll be damned if it won't go down without a fight.

 

[MrSony]

Yo, Meester Sony, By chance have you done the earth worm shuffle and checked your fuel line at anywhere along its length where there is a rubber section inserted? Old rubber hose can look okay but be collapsed or gone stupid internally causing a block. Also, have you ever taken a peek into the tank and done a crud presence analysis? Tank pickup might be starving do to crud infestation. Oh yeah, what about the tank vent or a return line on the carb? They doing what they oughtta? I do agree about the fuel starvation but wondering if it is elsewhere in the system and what you are getting is a symptom of issues occurring else-place.



Nick

Tank, pickup, sock, sending unit are all new. All fuel system rubber is new. fuel pump is new. Haven't seen any leaks in the steel lines. I put a gauge on the pump to carb line and it read 4 psi. So I'm thinking the cheap *ss pump I have is just too weak to keep refilling the small qjet bowl at 3300rpm. The Holley the trucks originally came with have more than double the fuel capacity than the qjet. I'm still not 100 sure it's exactly a fuel starvation problem, as there has always been fuel in the carb when I've checked, but 4psi can be helping matters.

 

[CopperNick]

Stuff almost looks like Lucas RED #2 Sticky Grease. I can't say that I have never heard of manual T-fluid congealing because I have experienced the phenomenon in my old Monza. Recall on several occasions lighting her off in -40, dropping the gears into neutral, releasing the pedal and having the engine stall out. Had to sit on the pedal for about five minutes at one point to get enough hear into the box to get it to spin in idle.

Did you happen to use assembly grease for anything during the last rebuild and some of it has lingered?



Nick

 

[CopperNick]

Okay then SWAG here. Does your gas tank vent through the gas cap or does the tank have a separate line for that? If it vents through the cap then shouldn't a quick shake of the cap give you a rattle or noise>? Most carbs do not tend to have a return line but there can be a separate line from the tank to a breather canister that in turn sends the fumes back into the manifold as part of the exhaust gas recirculation process. The canister has a filter pad in it that is replaceable once it gets loaded up with dirt and crud. Not sure for yours but for my Chebbies you just just disconnect the hoses, get it unbolted or unclamped from its mount and flip it over. The old filter can be evicted with a little bit of encouragement from a cabinet tip slotted screwdriver.

One other left field culprit might be the PVC Valve being clogged, but that is so far out there that it lands right in the middle of the list of dumb things that shouldn't cause a particular problem but do.

As for the fuel pump, 4 psi does sound a trifle light on the delivery pressure, but inbound fuel falls in a range, typically from about 4 at the low end to around 7 at the high side. Anything higher and the fuel pressure starts to blow the needles off their seats and you get flooding.



Nick