What did you do to your non-G body project today? [2022]

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Well today was going pretty good until I started feeling like crap. Not really sick just drained. I started with a trip to the diesel pump (OUCH)! $84.00 for 17.30 gallons. But I like to keep it full even if I don't need to. It's ready to Xscape jersey at a moments notice that way. Then I stopped by the shop around the corner from my house. The guy that owns the place used to have a junkyard in Staten island under the Bayonne bridge so he knows a guy or 2. I had him put the word out for a motor for Lexi but I haven't heard anything back yet. It's usually next day for that kinda stuff. I may still just try to put bearings in it and send it I don't know I still need to get the pan off. So I did a little maintenance on the daily greased the frontend hat to change a few fittings. Right lower ball joint would not take grease but I'll deal with that tomorrow maybe stole the front skid plate off the shop truck for mine only to find out it's different on a 1500. So I just kept the bolts and threw it away. I also went over and tightened a few bolts before I started feeling beat. Then I remembered I needed to clean that dam chimney. LoL needless to say that's done and I'm tired and need a shower.
 
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I both hear you and feel you on that drained out feeling. Happens to me fairly regularly and the Kvaks have no real clue why. For myself I can get as many as 9-10 good hours of sleep, spend the morning running errands, sit down for brunch and all is well, get out to the shop and maybe 2 hrs or less later, all I want to do is go back into the house and sleep. The only cure I have ever found it is to just keep moving and doing and the train wreck feeling seems to go away. Only thing with me is that, when I come in for supper, if I sit down, I wake up 1/2-23 hours later. This not going to be a good month for me as all my shots will be getting administered at one point or another.

Other matters...…………..

Put the S-10 back on the ground and torqued the rear wheel lug nuts; the fronts had not been disturbed so they got left alone. Still need to vacuum it before it goes back to the street.

Had the neighbour's kid approach me about an S-10 rear end that he had stashed at his dad's place next door. Seems the project he had wanted it for has collapsed and he just wanted it gone. Fine by me, I can work with free and the alternative was seeing it go the scrap yard to be destroyed. Nah. It came with a complete, matched, set of aluminum rims that had 205/60's mounted on them. The rims need some serious sanding and buffing out and the rubber might not be useable after hiding under a rose bush for around a decade. Thing with this rear end is that it is just the right width for a pre-forty street rod and it is set up for leaf springs; they are already stashed up in the loft. His stepdad and I get along and the old man was glad to see the lump disappear so the two of them rolled it over in behind the fence and onto the verge and there it sits for now. Threw a chain around it just in case some picker gets any ideas. It will get a second chain to secure it to the fence post and they all will get locks. I suppose I could just wrap the whole thing in bahb-wire but there is always someone who is stupid enough to touch the stuff and then the howling begins.

Thought some more about it and decided that, come spring, I would need a better way to move it around so I could keep the verge cut down and clean. My Mark One, Mod Zero rear end mover did not have big enough wheels on it to deal with grass and gravel but...……I could always create a Mark Two.

So here I go again. The frame will be made from 1-1/4 chain link fence top rail. I had to replace three sections of it last spring due to snow/ice damage and just kept the damaged ones out on the rack. A little measuring and I decided to make the frame 72 inches long, end to end, and a hair or so under 18 inches wide. That is both long enough and narrow enough to cradle the wheels without them trying to pop out of position. Not sure about wheels, maybe 12 inch. The taller they are, the easier they will roll.

Because the top rails plug into each other as part of being assembled, what I did was to harvest two 32 inch sections, both of which had one end necked down, and two 43 inch sections, When you plug one short and one long together, you get the 72 inches because the connection consumes three inches of overlap. The connection also allows me to cross drill the two sections to fit them with bolts which in turn allows me to disassemble the mover/dolly for storage if I happen to flog the diff and bits to someone somewhere in the future.

The next project is a new frame for one of my downstairs parts cabinets. The current set up is a piece of plywood on sawhorses and they are starting to become marginal for the weight. Bay One will be vacant for a day or two; just long enough to cut the studs and drill them for assembly.



Supper calls...………….later.


Nick
 
And I thought my shop was a mess!!!



Nick
at least he has room to move around . I've got like one narrow aisle, and then have to squeeze by other stuff. can't wait until we sell our house and I get a proper workshop garage
 
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This is when I first moved into my house. Few things are different and the hedge is trimmed back to the frame, but yea pretty much looks the same. I keep it damn near spotless. Behind my SS is a shelf I built that has a bunch of tools and other things on it. Behind my Z06 is the washer & dryer. 15ft car fits well there.

GARAGE.jpg
 
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This is when I first moved into my house. Few things are different and the hedge is trimmed back to the frame, but yea pretty much looks the same. I keep it damn near spotless. Behind my SS is a shelf I built that has a bunch of tools and other things on it. Behind my Z06 is the washer & dryer. 15ft car fits well there.

View attachment 208692

You don't have enough crap.
 
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Final steps on the Cub Cadet 122 front end. I picked up two Torrington bearings (AKA thrust bearings) aling with thrust washers (for the bearings to ride on) at my lical Graingers. I installed one bearing and two thrust washers on each spindle/king-pin. The beaing and washers were installed at the base of the spindle.

IOW, the bearing and thrust washers are sandwiched between spindle/king-pin and solid ftont acle. Greased everything and it now tirns so wrll and smoothly.
 

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