What did you do to your non-G body project today? [2022]

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Whelp, just got back from a 3 week hiatus to the northeast. Went as close to fully offline and cell free as possible.

Unfortunately, the high mileage GT took another hit. By some idiotic jerks.probably going to insurance it, the scrapes and dents run from about 8pm to 2pm on the wheel arch.

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Happened the last day we were staying up north before loading out to come back south. Figures right? Downside is that there's the pre-existing/pending damage from a hit and run on rear bumper and tailgate.

Even with car prices where they are I have to wonder if all that means they'll total loss it? Wait and see. At least it was the car we take to higher risk activities and nkt one of the really good ones.

At some point to come there's some fun pictures to share and some videos (admittedly a Lil shaky being the camera was cane mounted) for those of you who love freedom, good times, and most importantly America. I've got to figure out how to get it from phone to sharable.

Also had a bunch of random cool pics from some fairs and events. Legs left something to be desired, but held up well all considered as we never went further than braces, sleeves, and canes.

So, now we're back, didn't get too much of a hit stormwise,, the usual rain and some wind. Plenty of Spanish moss and small branches down..... lots of snakes out though.
 
I got the 12v transfer pump working on the 78 galon tank in the back of my truck last night then I unloaded the Camaro and took my trailer back to the building. I used EJ's inverter to heat the bolts on the pump and it worked like a charm. I was nervous to do it any other way like with a torch only because it's attached to 78 gallons of fuel in the bed of my truck. Tonight after work I'll pump it out into my home tank. Because that's empty and it's only getting colder out. I'm probably going to put the transfer tank in the square body for now to free up some bed space in the daily. If I get another call to pump out another home tank I'll just put it back in. I'm thinking the tank and extra fuel is probably quite heavy so taking it out should save me a few dollars a week in fuel.
 
Iam back on the CC122 front end. Today, with king-pin/spindles (AKA Steering Knuckles) removed, I removed the inoperative, press-in zerk fittings, left and right. I the drilled the holes out and tapped holes with 1/4-28 tap. Then I installed threaded, working zerk fitttings.
 

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It's been a pretty productive day for me. I started out 6am by squeezing my truck between the trees on my front lawn so I could pump out the transfer tank in the bed. The pump worked like a charm. Then I got to thinking it would be nice to have a little more bed space. With that out came the tool box.
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And out came the tank Janet and I slid it into the back of the square body.
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It must have been in there a very long time. I couldn't believe the amount of crap that was built up around it.
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The bed liner in this truck is absolutely trashed! It's got more holes than swiss cheese. I've got a plan for that to though in do time. I will say it has something to do with the new shop truck at work. Lol it's a 1500 rust bucket but I'm going to ask Sam if I can swap bed liners with it. It by the way was the next thing I worked on today. Friday I got 4 tires out of globex's pile for it and they mounted them for me. One of my detailers put them on this morning but didn't tighten up the lugs so I did it.
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That's when I moved on to the Camaro
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I got it on the lift and drained the oil. Brought up my tool cart to the bey to get rolling on it. I just couldn't bring myself to ripping into it today and I had to go out to the building anyway so I locked up and left.
When I got to my building I had a minute to clear my head and I found a motor for the Camaro in pa for $450 so I sent the company selling it a message. I'm still waiting for them to get back to me but I have discussed it with the other half and she agreed. I was going to bandaid that motor back together with bearings in the car. But the exhaust manifold studs are all going to brake and in car that's going to suck. So then I'll want it out and if I'm pulling it out I may as well put a good one back in. I just really don't want to fix it twice so I'm only doing it once.
 
Today actually warmed up to tolerable so i climbed back into my now very black and dirty bunny suit and proceeded to slide back under the S-10 one more time. Today's goal was to shoot the layer of 3M undercoating on the frame rails, crossmembers, and on anything else that needed some protection from the elements and the road crud. Went through two pairs of hard to get latex shop gloves, a pair a side, to keep the stuff off my hands because it is almost as miserable as POR 15 to get off. The truck will sit for most of the week end now while the undercoating cures/dries. I do plan to return it to earth tomorrow so I can torque the rear wheel nuts and possibly vacuum the interior.

For the daily encore, I popped the center caps back on the front wheels and added the plastic covers onto the lug nuts to keep them in place. They may look ugly but do do the job of keeping the salt crap off the nuts and wheel studs quite well.

The bonus round found me pulling the Hex plug from the front oil gallery on my Orphan LS. Both Earls and Fragalo make screw in replacements that are drilled and tapped for 1/8th pipe. I have JIC fittings that i can screw into the adapter and they allow me to build my own pre-oiler for this motor. if it were just a case of a oil change, then I wouldn't be worried so much but I have no idea how long this mill has sat since it was pulled and I have to assume that any oil that is in it is pretty much dead so it will be getting a fresh oil change, complete with filter, but instead of the oil all going in via the filler tube, at least half of it will be injected under pressure through that port. Once I have a qt or two in the galleries I can put a breaker bar on the front crank pulley and rotate the crank about 45 degrees; lather, rinse, repeat, until I get through at least one complete rotation. Unlike the mill in my SS, which I can prime using a oil pump priming drive and a heavy 1/2" drill motor, priming the LS takes a little more work and preparation. Dug through a couple of the parts boxes over in dead zone A and came up with a hand full of various JIC fittings which then got to go for a swim in the bearing cleaning tank, which has an inch or so of varsol in it. They'll get left there over night and then receive some compressed air love courtesy of the air compressor. Being all males, I will have to hit the local hydraulic shop and pick up some female swivel ends and a couple of block off caps. The earls' adaptor actually comes pretty close to matching the stocker for height so it might just get screwed into place and a hex socket pipe plug added to close the port. I kind of wish that I had the correct power steering pump mounting bracket so that I could figure out a permanent install but, that will happen eventually.


Nick
 
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Been working on my chimney the last couple of days. Found the roofers did a terrible counter flashing job. The base flashing is ok but they reused the old counter flashing which had some tears and had worked loose out of the mortar. Worse yet, the side of the chimney facing the peak isn't counter flashed at all. Doesn't even have a mounting groove cut on that side. That issue likely predates the most recent roofers and probably an original construction problem. Looks like I will have to cut a groove in the brick mortar.

From what I have read its common for roofers to F up flashing around brick chimneys, especially those in the middle of the roof like mine.
 
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You pretty much need to have some tin-whacking experience to properly bend and shape the flashing. Most roofers are contractors who run multiple crews because they have multiple jobs on the books and need to in,, off, on, done, and gone, AFAP. Bending new flashing requires precision and patience; so does the laying of a roof, just not the same kind. Late spring and summer around here they start at first light and do either until done or until it is too dark to continue.

Nick
 
Been working on my chimney the last couple of days. Found the roofers did a terrible counter flashing job. The base flashing is ok but they reused the old counter flashing which had some tears and had worked loose out of the mortar. Worse let, the side of the chimney facing the peak isn't counter flashed at all. Doesn't even have a mounting grove cut on that side. That issue likely predates the most recent roofers and probably an original construction problem. Looks like I will have to cut a grove in the brick mortar.

From what I have read its common for roofers to F up flashing around brick chimneys, especially those in the middle of the roof like mine.
yeah, I had to re-do my chimney crown about 5-6 yrs ago. it was not fun mixing cement in stagnant humid heat and then having to haul it up to the roof 40 ft by rope in a 5 gallon bucket. not a job I want to do again
 
yeah, I had to re-do my chimney crown about 5-6 yrs ago. it was not fun mixing cement in stagnant humid heat and then having to haul it up to the roof 40 ft by rope in a 5 gallon bucket. not a job I want to do again
Luckiest thing about the grade 3 sprain and fibula break.... itll keep me from going on the roof this year and doing mine and putting a new cap on.
 
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Great you guys just reminded me I was supposed to clean my chimney today.

I didn't get anything constructive done today the landlord needed us to move cars in the building so he can put up a wall and do some wiring. Basically we made a huge mess.
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It's like a shell game our bey is getting made smaller and we are eventually moving into a different one with 2 overhead doors but the guy currently in there hasn't moved yet and the landlord wants to get a jump on the improvements so we are shuffling cars and tools in and out of the way. I don't even know where all my stuff is at this point. No big deal though I'll find it all when the time comes.
 
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