What did you do to your non-G body project today? [2022]

Status
Not open for further replies.
Took my 1978 Delta 88 Holiday coupe out to a car show yesterday. Weather started off great but then rained for 45 minutes just before noon. I didn't win any awards but saw a lot of great cars. The show was Buick, Cadillac, Oldsmobile, and Pontiac cars only. Some great cars showed up and took home some plaques. The best of show was an absolutely gorgeous triple black 1972 Pontiac Grand Prix SJ. Here I am parked next to a 1979 Hurst/Olds and a 1973 Olds Custom Cruiser wagon. I want that wagon so badly... 9 passenger, roof rack, fully loaded, about 50k original miles ...
 

Attachments

  • DSCN1703.JPG
    DSCN1703.JPG
    1.2 MB · Views: 75
  • DSCN1717.JPG
    DSCN1717.JPG
    1.6 MB · Views: 77
Hhmm.... I'll have to do some digging & see what was optionally available for the larger size trans-cooler brick. I wouldn't mind mine have some extra wiggle room.

I'd be curious to hear what you find, if anything.
 
Not sure if this falls into the non G-Body class or shop talk, but I can put it here and it will migrate if required.


DSCN3079.JPG



So some of you may recall the pictures of my t-mission swap that was done to my Non G-Body G-body, aka my G-10 Van. The pictures for that work showed the van sitting on sets of stacking 2x4 plates, 6 plates to a stack, to get the van high enough to drop the box and slide it out on a transmission jack.

What didn't get shown was the amount of work needed to get the van high enough to set the stacks in place. For the last couple of pplates, I had to use a 10 x 10 baulk of wood as a spacer to take up some of the room between the jack saddle and the front crossmember or i would run out of ram extension before the saddle hit the crossmember. Wood is good for a lot of things but internal decay or damage can cause a baulk to split unannounced. Not a nice thing to have to deal with.

So I came up with the idea of creating a steel saddle adapter/spacer that would sit in between the saddle and the lifting arm on the floor jack to get the jack saddle to the crossmember sooner and lift the vehicle higher, and more safely.

The first picture above is the basic structure. The spacer body is a motor casing from a lift motor that had burned out. My buddy had the guts in a margaring pail in his shop and laid the case on me when I told him what my idea was. At the point shown above i had added an outer collar of 3/16th plate about 3/4 wide to the body of the spacer to be. This was to create a wider contact surface for the "teeth" on the saddle to align with.


DSCN3084.JPG



Now sitting upright and with its plug and edge welds ground smooth, you can see the notches for the teeth on the saddle more clearly.
DSCN3085.JPG



Just a closer look from a different angle. The initial notches that I ground into the case body became wider with the addition of the collar. Where the edge of the collar passed by a notch opening, a seam was created that I subsequently closed off with a pass. The overweld was then ground smooth as well to create a solid opening.
DSCN3086.JPG



And here is why the notches had to become wider in depth. With the collar attached and the saddle just mocked up in position, you can see how the teeth on the saddle sit and fit into their matching notch. As a to come additional safety feature, a second collar of the same thickness of material will be added to the first collar, but, at the same time, be offset so that it will overlap the saddle. For its part the saddle will be free to come and go, so tha the spacer can be installed or removed, but having the second collar offset as it will be, will keep the spacer from trying to "wander" off the saddle during a lift. Th other end is scheduled to receive a piece of heavy plate with a hole drilled in it to accept a second saddle, so it all goes together sort of like a sandwich; 'cept this sandwich would only get eaten if you had a major iron deficiency. LOL!




Nick
 
  • Like
Reactions: Texas82GP
Replaced turn signal flasher. Blinky is back.
 
I loaded up the '00 Jeep Cherokee, hooked up the boat, and headed for the ramp. About a quarter of the way there I hear a "click-click-click" sound in time with the wheels. It went to a "snap-snap-snap" then a "bang- bang- bang" and yet I could find nothing wrong. At first I thought it was a U-joint but then it sounded like something was about to violently break. I put it into 4WD high and that took the load off the rear gears and it quieted down a lot. I limped home slowly and put the rear up on jack-stands. U-joints were tight but the drive shaft I could turn about 20° before the rear gears meshed. Yup. Blown bearing or something. It least it hasn't exploded yet so maybe I can re-build it over the Summer. As if I had nothing else to do!
 
  • Angry
Reactions: DRIVEN
I loaded up the '00 Jeep Cherokee, hooked up the boat, and headed for the ramp. About a quarter of the way there I hear a "click-click-click" sound in time with the wheels. It went to a "snap-snap-snap" then a "bang- bang- bang" and yet I could find nothing wrong. At first I thought it was a U-joint but then it sounded like something was about to violently break. I put it into 4WD high and that took the load off the rear gears and it quieted down a lot. I limped home slowly and put the rear up on jack-stands. U-joints were tight but the drive shaft I could turn about 20° before the rear gears meshed. Yup. Blown bearing or something. It least it hasn't exploded yet so maybe I can re-build it over the Summer. As if I had nothing else to do!

Sounds like spider or side gears to me.
 
Not really. I have been surfcasting without much luck. Water is still kind of cold. As for the rear I have to get the boat in the water, put the trailer away, put the Gyp in my work space, then open the cover for a look-see. I know Gyp rears are scarce so if I can re-build cheaply I will. And of course I could use new rear springs, new driveshaft, and anything else that will be touched while back there. Only because I re-built the whole front end last year. And so it begins.....:doh:
 
Well I'm about to have a project, because working on these things is a pain in the azzzz.

My dailer driver, 2009 Civic. 1.8l 4cl rice burner, 5spd manual so somewhere to hang my purse.

This thing gets the upmost attention given daily duty. Couple weeks ago it developed a noise under the hood that sounds like power steering, except it does it when it's cold, hot, doesn't matter it's constant and with RPM so I know it's on the accessories somewhere. Ruled PS out because noise is no where near it.

Changed Alternator, noise remained. Checked all pullies I could reach which were water pump and tensioner. Perfectly smooth and tight like they should be. Started looking online... the cuplrit is the pulley bearing on the AC Clutch Assembly.

So I'll have to get the wrench, get that apart, and see what I can do and hopefully it can stay together for a few days more, this weekend's project.

Excellent car tho, first issue I've had with it and got it in Jan 2019, 141k miles on it.

CIVIC.jpg
 
Got a really good deal on used G scale track at an estate auction. 62 feet of straight track for $50, less than a dollar a foot. Also included a good bit of tight 4 foot diameter curved track which I am going to resell as tight curves suck. Need to start planning a track extension .
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

GBodyForum is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to amazon.com. Amazon, the Amazon logo, AmazonSupply, and the AmazonSupply logo are trademarks of Amazon.com, Inc. or its affiliates.

Please support GBodyForum Sponsors

Classic Truck Consoles Dixie Restoration Depot UMI Performance

Contact [email protected] for info on becoming a sponsor