Can you adjust L/R independently on that truck? My trucks just have the 1 adjustment and it pulls one side faster than the other. If I could get them to pull evenly I could adjust it tighter. My 1 experience with Powerstop is also positive, very much so. They make a GG rated bonded semi-metallic rear brake shoe that is downright wicked.
What did you do to your non-G body project today? [2023]
- Thread starter Wraith
- Start date
Can you adjust L/R independently on that truck? My trucks just have the 1 adjustment and it pulls one side faster than the other. If I could get them to pull evenly I could adjust it tighter. My 1 experience with Powerstop is also positive, very much so. They make a GG rated bonded semi-metallic rear brake shoe that is downright wicked.
Yeah, both sides have an adjuster for the parking brake shoe. To do it right, you mic the I.D. of the parking brake drum and mic the O.D. of the shoe (it's most of a circle). You adjust to a specified clearance. I don't have the tools to do that so it was just a lot of trial and error slipping the rotor on and off and adjusting. There is no adjustment in the cables. It's just tab in slot at the equalizer.
Ahh nice, then that's what I need to do to the Envoy and Corvette. Night and day difference from before?
You just wanted to show off that rust free frame and those wheel arches that are completely intact.
Took the Goldwing out for a 40 degree ride, and found the speedometer cable started squealing like Deliverance. It had broke the cable earlier in the year, and the replacement got dry graphite spray before installation but it still occasionally made noises.
I kinda went nuclear with the ATF and eliminated all possibilities. Nearly 100ml went down the cable and a hose full was pushing against the speedometer input for an hour.
I took another ride after reassembly and no more noise.
I kinda went nuclear with the ATF and eliminated all possibilities. Nearly 100ml went down the cable and a hose full was pushing against the speedometer input for an hour.
I took another ride after reassembly and no more noise.
Good fix. I think I probably had less than 3000 miles on my Goldwing before I wrecked it and it got aftermarket gauges. That was 27 years ago. Ugh, I'm old.
Been doing little things around the new house for the nice lady who lives with me, putting up shelves, fixing stuff lazy *ss flippers ****ed up, etc.
Back door only had a single locking knob, no dead bolt, but the front door and garage man door do. Put a dead bolt on the back door and moved the latch closer to the door, it was only engaging by barely 1/16th.
On the k1500 side, picked up a lisle 02 sensor tap/thread chaser and got the driver's side manifold all sorted, and got the correct donut gaskets. Next weekend i'll pick up the y pipe.
Back door only had a single locking knob, no dead bolt, but the front door and garage man door do. Put a dead bolt on the back door and moved the latch closer to the door, it was only engaging by barely 1/16th.
On the k1500 side, picked up a lisle 02 sensor tap/thread chaser and got the driver's side manifold all sorted, and got the correct donut gaskets. Next weekend i'll pick up the y pipe.
Absolutely. The brakes are fully applied with the pedal halfway down, or just a little more. I went out about 25 clicks on both sides from where it was. Where I started, the parking brake would hold the truck but the pedal was on the floor. You just have to be careful that the shoe isn't dragging on the drum. It will wear away quick.
I'm about where you were, handle at the last click to get the thing to hold in place.
Lisle is an underrated company. They make some nice tools for fair prices and most or maybe even all of them are US made.
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