The big problem with keeping the stock spindle is the PITA integral hub and rotor. You either have to go with an expensive aftermarket hub or machine the rotor off a stock hub which is unsafe to run larger rotors and calipers. There are several reports of machined down stock rotor hubs cracking and fracturing. However, Blazer spindles are not cheap either, especially if they need new wheel bearings. There are not many cheap options to upgrading G body brakes.
I was hoping i could piece together something similar to the blazer upgrade and use corvette rotors and calipers and still use the stock spindle. i would love to have the big rotors.
The Blazer spindle Route is just easier, because you don't have to cut-up / drill & tap the stock spindle. It's a little easier to go to the junkyard and pop the spindles out of a 2wd Blazer than to cut the brake mounts off and drill/Tap a stock spindle. I can pop the spindles out of a Blazer in less than 20 minutes/side, if the shock is still there.
My example=
Since this comes up occasionally, I decided to tally up MY costs to do the C5/C6 brake swap on my Cutlass, so here goes:
1) Base C5 (JL9)12.8" rotors and pads that were basically new were given to me free by a neighbor who upgraded to drilled/slotted Hawk stuff=$30 for resurfacing at Oreilly. Equivalent kits are $80-$240 from Rockauto.
2) 1998-2003 Blazer spindles and hubs=$40 from salvage yard
3) KORE3 brackets and hoses =$223. Kit #10441-01, #10117 hoses. Hoses are pricey($69), but nice braided stainless with SAE on one end and Metric on the other since my car is a 1979 and has SAE brake lines and the C6's are metric.
4) Centric brand C6 base calipers from Rockauto =$352. Centric #14162137 + #14162138 I just preferred the looks of the C6 over the C5, but they are supposedly a bit stiffer with the wider ribs on top.
5) Couple of cans of spray paint=$10
Grand Total = $655, $865 if you figure in the best rotors/pads from Rockauto,. Didn't change Master Cylinder or proportioning valve. Been driving it about 6 months like this, I think it stops great, and doesn't get that squeak,squeak,squeak that some Gbody brakes get.
The Blazer spindle Route is just easier, because you don't have to cut-up / drill & tap the stock spindle. It's a little easier to go to the junkyard and pop the spindles out of a 2wd Blazer than to cut the brake mounts off and drill/Tap a stock spindle. I can pop the spindles out of a Blazer in less than 20 minutes/side, if the shock is still there.
That is if you can find a 2wd Blazer in the yards. In my area 2wd Blazers are rare, I only seen 4wd models in local yards and every one was rusted to hell.
That is if you can find a 2wd Blazer in the yards. In my area 2wd Blazers are rare, I only seen 4wd models in local yards and every one was rusted to hell.
There are at least 7 2wd Blazers listed on Row52 in Dallas right now. That is why I moved out of the rust belt 30 years ago and haven't regretted it for a second in those 30 years.
There are at least 7 2wd Blazers listed on Row52 in Dallas right now. That is why I moved out of the rust belt 30 years ago and haven't regretted it for a second in those 30 years.
Surprised there would be that many posers in Texas. Last time I was there everybody seemed to drive huge true 4x4s. I need to move out of the rustbelt.
There are at least 7 2wd Blazers listed on Row52 in Dallas right now. That is why I moved out of the rust belt 30 years ago and haven't regretted it for a second in those 30 years.
I got my 2wd Blazer spindles from a local yard. Wasn't a U-pull-it but I searched using www.car-part.com and a yard had both sides. I think I paid around $60 each. They did have bearings and backing plates, but were rusty and mangled so I replaced both.
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