Which flywheel do I need?

[pontiacgp]

that loop is the floor brace and since the transmission is 3" longer than what was in there the brace ends up being directly under where the u-joint is so the bracer won't fit any longer. I put a spacer on mine so it sat lower to give clearance for the yoke. I'll be fabricating a new brace this winter. The brace does have a duel purpose in preventing the driveshaft from falling in case of failure

 

[Chillin014]

Ah okay, I just saw that as I was out there removing everything, you may be right. I saw a little mark where the u joint may have come into contact with the brace...no biggie.

So here is some interesting news....I removed the transmission, clutch,flywheel etc. I decided to get in the car to see if the clutch pedal would be softer since my assumption was that the rusty pressure plate was causing the stiff pedal. The pedal is STILL STIFF. The slave cylinder is hanging loose with nothing to put resistance on it and it feels exactly how it did before. Something is wrong with the hydraulics and I think it may have something to do with the way I bled the system, maybe? :?:

The slave cylinder is aluminum...this is the one I got. http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d...ord=slave&partType=01352&parentPartType=C0015

Autozone specifies that there is a difference between the v6 and v8 slave cylinder in that year Camaro but Oreilly's did not. I dont know that it would cause a pedal that stiff though.

 

[pontiacgp]

first off don't depress the clutch pedal without it being installed with the rest of the clutch set up, you could push out the seals. The slave will be extended with it just hanging so it'll be hard since you can't push it any further. Also "stiff" is a relative term. The pressure plate dictates the pressure required. My clutch is really heavy and that's the way I like it...

 

[Chillin014]

Well I didnt press the pedal down really at all, I just wanted to check the initial feeling of it and it was rock hard just as before. Trust me, this isn't a preference thing, something is wrong here. I'm going to go pick up my flywheel and a clutch but I am pretty sure the problem is elsewhere now.

Still trouble shooting the brakes as well, the booster valve and line checked out okay, didn't see any kinks either.

 

[pontiacgp]

check the rod on your brake pedal to make sure it's sitting properly.....and if you were able to depress the clutch yesterday and change gears I would think the hydraulic system is working ok...

 

[Chillin014]

I compressed the slave cylinder by hand with somebody in the car and had them press the pedal to see if the stiffness remained and it was apparently very easy to press and the pin seemed to move smoothly. So maybe the problem WAS with the pressure plate, my fingers are crossed.

I can't see anything wrong with the brakes, nor can I diagnose it until I get the new flywheel on (to start the motor) this afternoon. Just to verify, the valve would let air into the booster but not out (except very slowly). The tube to the booster is clear, no kinks in the lines, and no binding of the brake pedal movement. I may replace the valve just to be sure.

 

[pontiacgp]

My clutch pedal is very hard to depress and yours is probably the same. I have a pathfinder I drive in the winter and the clutch pedal is soft and so is the one in our S10 shop truck. Those pressure plates don't need the pinching power of a heavy pressure plate like a my 355 does and the heavier the pressure plate the less chance of any slippage. You'll get use to it

 

[Chillin014]

If it remains the same hard-ness I think it's going to cause an accident, it's nearly impossible to ease the clutch. We will see later, I just bought a Duralast clutch at autozone...probably at OEM specs. I also got the flywheel, it looked just like the pictures people were showing me earlier in the thread, it's like HALF the weight of the POS I was using before. Its oddly thin actually, even compared to smaller less powerful cars I have experience with. Should have something conclusive to report within the next few hours.

 

[Chillin014]

okay..everything was reinstalled and the clutch felt slightly softer, but still very hard. The brake booster still isnt working and I went to look at the pedals only to notice that the master cylinder rod is BENT and now it is leaking :evil: . I dont think the angle was extreme enough to bend it, maybe that old pressure plate caused the resistance and thats when the damage occurred?

 

[pontiacgp]

now I'll say I told you so..lol.....if you had put the pin it it's proper location you could just change the master without having to cut the rod .......and is it possible you weakened the rod by cutting it down and that's why it bent?.....and it's very important not have the rod on an angle because the angle increases as you depress the rod so it may not look to bad when extended... the other reason to leave the rod its original length your not increasing the angle as steeply as you are with a shorter rod like yours...the other thing you NEED to do is to put a rod from your pedal assembly down to the right side bolt for the master or your firewall will be flexing too much....

oh and I had to change my master cause it was used and leaking I found the best way to change was to move the brake booster out of the way...I tried to work around it but it was easier just to remove the booster