tried to finish up the pedals today but it just ended up taking too long. I should have it done tomorrow, and I'll get some pictures on here for the potential flame-fest. I ended up shortening the rod on the master cylinder rather than adding a plate to the pedal but that was the easy part. The angle was still so wrong... so I created that spacer thing I posted about earlier for the firewall, tried using a crowbar to "twist/bend" the firewall to turn the master towards the clutch pedal, and even made the clevis pin stick out as far as possible to compensate. Where I left off I ended up extending the holes so I could move the master over more. I think the angle should be acceptable at that point.
Which flywheel do I need?
- Thread starter Chillin014
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I wouldn't shorten the rod on the master....that's a bandade solution.....if the master ever lets go when you away from base another master won't fit unless you modify it....and you used a crowbar to do what?.. :shock:
pontiacgp said:
lmao. Yeah it got REAL redneck in the shop when I realized my stupid washer idea wasnt going to work. I was "tweaking" on it with the master mounted in place. I got a crowbar under the loop bolt and, as gently as I could, pried on it turning the master so the rod point in the right direction. The firewall was forgiving while I was putting pressure on it, and I think it may have helped a little bit, but I wasnt really counting on it. Regardless of how much I turned it, I realize it doesnt change the fact that the rod is still being pushed in at a slight angle. How big of a problem this is, I will find out.
The shortened rod may be a band-aid solution but I figured I'd try it out on the used master cylinder and at least now that every other aspect of the pedal swap is taken care of I have a foundation for when I need to go back and make changes. It sounds contradictory to what I said in the paragraph above but...how often do you really change master cylinders? I think like you do though, I always want to be prepared...but I gotta draw the line somewhere, can't carry around an extra motor "just in case". :lol:
well you said the angle is wrong and you had to modify the rod so I'd take the pedal out and weld the plate with the pin in the proper location to solve correct both problems your having....but then that's just me....
I only shortened the rod because it was too long, not really anything to do with the angle. But because the whole cylinder points upwards shortening the rod actually brought it further away from the pivot point and I think helped with any vertical movement it was going to have throughout the throw. If anybody needs diagrams for clarification of what I'm saying I dont mind making one.
I'll get some pics up later today, got some other things to do first.
I'll get some pics up later today, got some other things to do first.
the rod is not too long...I didn't cut mine and there are many others out there with the same set up that didn't modify the rod
I'll change it if it proves to be a problem. Right now I'm a little confused... I assembled everything with the brake booster and have noticed that the clutch pedal sits much higher than the brake pedal, like by over and inch, maybe 2 inches. It doesn't seem like it's natural but I did all my modifications with respect to the pedals being in their fully dis-engaged positions, and that is their resting position..against the bump stop. It's like each pedal is a different distance from the driver...it could get annoying. I may have to create the stupid extension plate and let the pedal resting position sit further down even with the brake pedal. Unless I modify the very end of the pedal hmmm.
on to the pictures. You can see some modifying I did to both pins. I drilled a cotter pin hole further out for the master rod, ground down the brake clevis pin to prevent the pins from interfering with each other. had to notch out a part of the bracket which houses the brake light sensor for the new clutch pedal clevis pin. That's about it.. If the angle of the master rod looks unacceptable I can still adjust the positioning on the firewall, I just got lazy today.
Hopefully I'm about done. If John B. still made those pedals, and I knew what a pain in the *ss this was going to be, I would have bought the bolt-in pedal without a second thought. I've done 5 speed swaps before, but this master cylinder just was not meant to be in this car at all...or at least not with this pedal.
on to the pictures. You can see some modifying I did to both pins. I drilled a cotter pin hole further out for the master rod, ground down the brake clevis pin to prevent the pins from interfering with each other. had to notch out a part of the bracket which houses the brake light sensor for the new clutch pedal clevis pin. That's about it.. If the angle of the master rod looks unacceptable I can still adjust the positioning on the firewall, I just got lazy today.
Hopefully I'm about done. If John B. still made those pedals, and I knew what a pain in the *ss this was going to be, I would have bought the bolt-in pedal without a second thought. I've done 5 speed swaps before, but this master cylinder just was not meant to be in this car at all...or at least not with this pedal.
by higher do you mean your clutch pedal is closer to you than the brake pedal?. I have my clutch pedal set up to sit closer to me than the brake so I can easily slid my foot under the pedal when I rolling along....
Correct. I could be over-reacting..it just seemed kind of awkward. In my other manual car the pedal sits a tad higher, but this one is much more noticeable. I'll change it in the future if need be, I need to modify the left header now. Also..the clutch reservoir line is kinked up under the brake booster as expected. 😳
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