I'm hoping to get the truck back on the road in the next couple of days so I can start saving up to fix the Monte Carlo. I miss it so much!
With Luck Like This.......
- Thread starter Opie Knievel
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I saw this on another site and thought it was hilarious. I copied it so I could share with everyone here:
The proper way to handle a Gov-Lok:
1. Carefully remove the assembly from the axle housing.
2. Throw it as far away from the vehicle as possible.
3. Walk up to where it landed, pick it up, and throw it again.
4. Repeat until you can't see your house or the vehicle anymore.
5. Cover assembly with dirt, leaves and twigs.
6. Return to the vehicle, and install a proper locking or limited-slip differential.
The proper way to handle a Gov-Lok:
1. Carefully remove the assembly from the axle housing.
2. Throw it as far away from the vehicle as possible.
3. Walk up to where it landed, pick it up, and throw it again.
4. Repeat until you can't see your house or the vehicle anymore.
5. Cover assembly with dirt, leaves and twigs.
6. Return to the vehicle, and install a proper locking or limited-slip differential.
I miss my 94 Olds 350 TBI powered Chevy 4x4, the wrong truck burned. I would like to drive my 2000 Dodge Dakota off a cliff. I spent 2 grand on Ram EQ heads and swapped all the trans sensors and tested every sensor short of O2 sensors and a compression test. Betting both will test fine, cylinders looked fine and oil pressure is very good. I can't get the truck to link to my scan tool now. It has a bad miss and is down on power. It now runs worse than the original V6 and has about the same power. A least it isn't blowing coolant out the rad cap or into the oil anymore. Yeah, the 5.9 is such an easy swap.
An Olds powered Chevy is pretty unique. I saw your thread about trying to get the Dodge running right. I figured you'd straightened that out by now. Sounds like your truck luck is similar to mine except yours may be entirely bad luck. Do you have any idea what you're gonna do with the Dodge? You've got too much money invested to give up on it. That's my problem too. After rebuilding the transmission and front suspension I've gotta get this truck making me money instead of costing me money.
If I were you I would consider adding some STP, Lucas, or some other additive to the rear diff lube to give it a little extra help.
I know that year trucks did have clutch type limited slip rears, my old '89 2WD long bed has a 3.42 posi. I would guess they can be found in many a 4x4 Suburban or Tahoe. Surely, working at a salvage yard you know all the codes to look at for gear ratio and posi trac on the build sheet/decal.
Like G80 or G81
And whatever gear ratio you need?
I know that year trucks did have clutch type limited slip rears, my old '89 2WD long bed has a 3.42 posi. I would guess they can be found in many a 4x4 Suburban or Tahoe. Surely, working at a salvage yard you know all the codes to look at for gear ratio and posi trac on the build sheet/decal.
Like G80 or G81
And whatever gear ratio you need?
As far as I know, GM only used one kind of locker in the 10 bolt rear ends. The Eaton Locker (RPO G80). It's activated by centrifugal force. When one wheel spins faster than the other by more than a certain speed in RPM's, the mechanism engages a locker that ties both axles together. I've never heard of any other type in the factory 10 bolts. If someone can prove me wrong, please do. I'm always ready to learn. GU6 is 3.42 ratio on these trucks.
I'm probably gonna put whatever gear oil the factory called for. The one I bought is an open diff. The insides looked good and it was $200. The cheapest G80 rear end I could find was $350. Right now, I'd rather have the $150. I've got 4WD if I need one more wheel pulling.
that is the gov lok that you blew up and is famous for exploding
I'd be looking for an Eaton posi. I have an 8.2" Eaton posi in my 67 chevelle rear end and it still has the original disks that are still working
http://www.ebay.com/bhp/eaton-posi
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