1983 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Sedan LS Turbo Build
- Thread starter GroceryGetter83
- Start date
Nothing! Basically starting over again with boost control and tuning since I had so many boost leaks/transmission issues/brake issues.
Trans worked great! I need to not rush the tuning before a test and tune. But the WG hit on the trans brake was fun.
That has been the plan all along! People ask me about when I'm going to paint it. I want it to look this way because it makes it unassuming. The patina fits it really well.
4 port Mac valve, yes sir. Fuel pressure wasn't an issue because I was only on 7 psi. Second pump kicks on over 9 psi. But I had 58+ psi the entire run.
Glad to hear all went well. The 4 port is a bit more challenging to tune than a 3 port due to the percentage change not being 1:1 like the 3 port. If you've watched Happel's 8 for 8 pass video when it actually runs 8's you'll see what I mean - the sloppy guru fubar'd it lol. You should be able to make 35-40lbs on that 4 port, but the adjustments are minute.
You should be over 58 psi at 7lbs of boost - should've been 65. Check your regulator and boost referece line to the regulator. I was at 80psi at 22lbs of boost (58+22) - your's should work the same.
Really glad you were able to drive it home or not need a trailer. Work at it slow and then let it rip!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Fuel pressure at idle is around 51 psi (single Walbro 450 running with -8AN fuel, e75) according to log. On the trans brake, 7 psi launch (15* timing), I had 62 psi fuel pressure.
I am not sure which pump of the two is one all the time (I have the outlets T'd together and it could be the less ideal of the two). If I have to rewire them to make the other one run all the time, I certainly can.
I assume that this is where you got some traction. It sounds about right at 15 degrees. And sounds like your FP is good.
I wouldn't worry about which pump is running. You're on a base tune - get your Mac valve figured out and it won't matter because the 2nd pump will be running in a blink of an eye. The only issue could be that you launch above your second pump engagement thresh hold and shoot the FP to the moon for a little bit. Trust me - that's a parts tester hehe.
Would die to see a vid of this hit.
Any wigglin'?
I wouldn't worry about which pump is running. You're on a base tune - get your Mac valve figured out and it won't matter because the 2nd pump will be running in a blink of an eye. The only issue could be that you launch above your second pump engagement thresh hold and shoot the FP to the moon for a little bit. Trust me - that's a parts tester hehe.
Would die to see a vid of this hit.
Any wigglin'?
I've been going to the T&T alone; but hopefully wifey will come along and video tape for me!
I think on the 12.2 pass the rear wiggled a little. Its begging for more power!
Well, it seems the boost bug bit me. After trying to get the boost control to work off dome pressure, something wasn’t right about the engine.
There was an uncontrolled backfire and a noise I didn’t like coming from the bottom end.
Chasing the noise, I found this:
Pretty sure coolant isn’t supposed to be inside the valve train like that 😅
Looks like a little oil on top of the coolant:
Pulled the head and #8 looked funky:
Maybe I lifted the head?
So not the best, at this point I’m going to pull the entire thing
.
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.
.
.
.
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And replace it with this:
Balanced Gen3 crank with Gen4 pistons/rods. Rings gapped for boost (0.026”)
Less sloppy, more money LOL
There was an uncontrolled backfire and a noise I didn’t like coming from the bottom end.
Chasing the noise, I found this:
Pretty sure coolant isn’t supposed to be inside the valve train like that 😅
Looks like a little oil on top of the coolant:
Pulled the head and #8 looked funky:
Maybe I lifted the head?
So not the best, at this point I’m going to pull the entire thing
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
And replace it with this:
Balanced Gen3 crank with Gen4 pistons/rods. Rings gapped for boost (0.026”)
Less sloppy, more money LOL
