The TDS for this stuff is very, very vague. They don't give much info at all.
I mean, there's always a chance when you do mechanical and body work in the same space, but I don't believe anything touched the car as I literally blasted the area, blew the dust off, rolled it back inside and applied the POR Patch in a span of about 30 minutes. It didn't have much time to get contaminated.
I wish I knew what the recoat window was. The TDS gives you nothing.
Last time I used any of their product was in the... must've been window of around 2000 give or take a year or two.
Back then you had to do whatever rust prep you wanted, but, recommended not to clean shiny metal as adhering to too smooth a surface was an issue. Then, you used a de-greasing type prep solution, then they had something their trade name was iirc 'metal-ready' which left, again, it was a long time ago, but almost a lightly galvanized appearance on thr surface, a white-ish coating. Then after treating that you washed it again with water, let dry good, and finally you coated it and eventually top coated it to protect against uv.
Even blowing off with air some of the blasting material will have embedded into the metal at the microscopic level. Even an air blast won't get it out. And shop air isn't usually perfectly dry/filtered.
Sucks that it'll have to be repeated, but, if it were me at this point I'd probably try to get back to metal, get a rough surface via a sanding disc after any blasting, do my cleaning by hand first with a degreasing surface prep, then use their metal etching prep product that they'll say is compatible, follow all the instruction for it, ams try putting this stuff back on and then topcoat it.