1983 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Sedan LS Turbo Build

View attachment 110570

Looks like I will be able to use the bracket I cut off on the other side of the crossmember.

Eek! Dude, you need a piece of plywood or something under that to distribute the load on the pan, you risk crushing the pan and filter doing it that way.
 
Does the oil pan clear the tie rod ends at full steering lock? I had my pan higher since mine hit I thought. Might just be camera angle.
 
Eek! Dude, you need a piece of plywood or something under that to distribute the load on the pan, you risk crushing the pan and filter doing it that way.

I know! There is no converter in the trans, nor fluid. So the trans is lighter than it could have been. I will use some wood on final install.
 
Does the oil pan clear the tie rod ends at full steering lock? I had my pan higher since mine hit I thought. Might just be camera angle.

I will check tonight, I honestly didn't try it yet.
 
Does the oil pan clear the tie rod ends at full steering lock? I had my pan higher since mine hit I thought. Might just be camera angle.

The pan does hit the steering mechanism. Looks like I have to buy a damn oil pan 🤮
 
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The pan does hit the steering mechanism. Looks like I have to buy a damn oil pan 🤮

Better to find out now than when you turn the first time and pop a hole in the pan!!!
 
Better to find out now than when you turn the first time and pop a hole in the pan!!!

Absolutely. Thanks for catching that.

I'm torn between my options:
A) Get new motor mounts, keep truck pan, might have hood clearance issues with truck accessories? Will cost less but still have low oil pan.

B) Keep current motor mounts, get new pan. Hood clearance should be ok? Costs more but no low pan.
 
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Absolutely. Thanks for catching that.

I'm torn between my options:
A) Get new motor mounts, keep truck pan, might have hood clearance issues with truck accessories? Will cost less but still have low oil pan.

B) Keep current motor mounts, get new pan. Hood clearance should be ok? Costs more but no low pan.


How about option C) Return the Holley Terminator system ($ 999 ouch! 😵 ) and buy the 302-2 pan that you really need to do the job right. It's just me but when the factory ECM's work so well, are plentiful and cheap I don't understand why anyone would use anything else....Especially at $999
 
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How about option C) Return the Holley Terminator system ($ 999 ouch! 😵 ) and buy the 302-2 pan that you really need to do the job right. It's just me but when the factory ECM's work so well, are plentiful and cheap I don't understand why anyone would use anything else....Especially at $999

I have a full truck harness/ECU/fuse block when I got the motor. Mathematically I am saving money with the Holley:

Holley Terminator: $900 with $100 off coupon from Summit. I can tune myself, wire and monitor 90% of the things I want. Can use stock speedometer and gas gauge. Win for me.
Truck harness/ECU: Rewire harness (costs time which I value my time @ $$$, $400), gauges (Tach, A/F, oil pressure, fuel pressure, water temperature, etc etc, easily $600, buy HP Tuners, $400 or pay someone to tune $$.

$1400 > $900

Either way, I need the pan :doh:
 
There is this option also for over $100 less than the 302-2. You need an LS3 distick tube also so thats another $45 to add to the bill.

I have run a pickup pan on my car for 2 years at stock ride height, but plan to go to the pan below since I want to lower the car an inch or two up front. The alternator is close on stock pickup accessories but it will clear. I have the smaller diameter alternator from like an 06 work truck 1500, engine is as low as possible so the steering doesnt hit the pan and i trimmed the hood support around the alternator since it rubbed.

https://www.poormanmotorsports.com/...x-aluminum-rear-sump-oil-pan-aluminum-natural
 

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