4.1 v6 to buick 350 build (about time) lol
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I'm going to advise what I do when going from Buick V6 to 350.
Re-use ALL of the front accessory drive brackets and pulleys from the V6. Everything. You must also use the V6 water pump and when you go to install it, if you are getting a new one, just buy the one for your V6 with the HD cooling option if its available.
All of your accessories will line up perfectly. The only difference is that some of the belts will need to be slightly longer since the engine is a bit wider than the original V6. You'll be glad you went this way when you do.
You can also bolt your V6 motor mounts to the 350 block and run it. I did this when I swapped a Buick small block into my 78 Firebird when I pulled the 231 V6 out. I recommend buying the poly mounts from TA, but lots of guys like the rubber ones, so its whatever your preference is.
Re-use ALL of the front accessory drive brackets and pulleys from the V6. Everything. You must also use the V6 water pump and when you go to install it, if you are getting a new one, just buy the one for your V6 with the HD cooling option if its available.
All of your accessories will line up perfectly. The only difference is that some of the belts will need to be slightly longer since the engine is a bit wider than the original V6. You'll be glad you went this way when you do.
You can also bolt your V6 motor mounts to the 350 block and run it. I did this when I swapped a Buick small block into my 78 Firebird when I pulled the 231 V6 out. I recommend buying the poly mounts from TA, but lots of guys like the rubber ones, so its whatever your preference is.
KrisW said:
Kris, the 350 I bought and building came with all accesories all brackets EXCEPT the water pump pulley. Im hoping to keep the v6 as complete as possible since I'm learning and that would be a nice project for my next daily.. The acessories from the 350 should be ok right.. I just NOW bought a GN fan set up.. rad, radiator plate and fans for $50 bucks so clearance shouldnt be a problem. I did however buy a high flow water pump a while ago since I got it cheap.. supposed to cool 35% cooler for the 350 wich I was told was the same one used on the v6. Like i said new to buicks. So your input is like always appreciated.
There are 3 different lengths of water pump for the 350 Buick. If you've got the late pump (newer than 73) then it should work with a V6 pulley. Those are still pretty easy to get at the junk yard.
Even though you got a complete setup with your engine, I would STILL use the V6 stuff. Depending on what you will use your V6 on later, all of the 350 accessories will then work on the V6, so you still have a complete setup.
The problems that you may run into on your Regal can get deep when you use older accessories. The power steering pumps LOOK the same, but they're not. The pump you have was made to run the gear box on your frame. It may have metric line fittings while your old 350 one has SAE. The alternator for your V6 is likely a high amp variant, and the 70's model is likely to be 64 Amps or so. The most important one to me? AIR CONDITIONING. I MUST have the A/C working where I live, and it is just too easy to mount that proper A/C compressor to the bracket, and get that A/C working again.
I think you'll be happy you went that way if you do it. Good luck either way. You can certainly make it work no matter which way you choose, but it may cost more money to use the 70's stuff.
Even though you got a complete setup with your engine, I would STILL use the V6 stuff. Depending on what you will use your V6 on later, all of the 350 accessories will then work on the V6, so you still have a complete setup.
The problems that you may run into on your Regal can get deep when you use older accessories. The power steering pumps LOOK the same, but they're not. The pump you have was made to run the gear box on your frame. It may have metric line fittings while your old 350 one has SAE. The alternator for your V6 is likely a high amp variant, and the 70's model is likely to be 64 Amps or so. The most important one to me? AIR CONDITIONING. I MUST have the A/C working where I live, and it is just too easy to mount that proper A/C compressor to the bracket, and get that A/C working again.
I think you'll be happy you went that way if you do it. Good luck either way. You can certainly make it work no matter which way you choose, but it may cost more money to use the 70's stuff.
KrisW said:
I NEED my AC no way I can live without it here in AZ. What you say makes tons of sense so I will go that way using the v6 brackets and another PLUS is that when we tore the 350 down I just went to work and forgot how brackets go.. So using the v6 brackets will make it a lot smoother..
Heres some pics of the tear down.. Valve covers are up for grabs just pay shipping.. Good condition too.
Your engine looks super clean, and judging by the colors, I'd say it was a reman engine from an engine place somewhere. Take extra caution when you inspect the heads and the connecting rods as these type of places do a fair amount of "repair" to these items to get them sold. Also check what overbore you have.
If your heads have not had hardened seats installed, don't bother. Buick didn't do many from the factory because the iron has a high nickel content already, and is not generally affected by unleaded gas.
Your block has large coolant passages above the cylinders, and by that looks to be in the 1975-1980 category. Be careful that you get the right head gaskets to match those holes, there are a few different sizes out there. You might also want to start shopping for some 68-70 Buick 350 heads (or run the casting numbers you have on V8Buick.com) for some extra compression. The 1970 heads will be straight bolt on, but the 68-69 heads required a few mods to block off the oil passages that originally fed the rocker shafts. The 1970 and later engines oil through the lifters and pushrods so you don't need those passages and your late 70's block doesn't have the provision anyway. That stuff should be covered in your book, too.
If your heads have not had hardened seats installed, don't bother. Buick didn't do many from the factory because the iron has a high nickel content already, and is not generally affected by unleaded gas.
Your block has large coolant passages above the cylinders, and by that looks to be in the 1975-1980 category. Be careful that you get the right head gaskets to match those holes, there are a few different sizes out there. You might also want to start shopping for some 68-70 Buick 350 heads (or run the casting numbers you have on V8Buick.com) for some extra compression. The 1970 heads will be straight bolt on, but the 68-69 heads required a few mods to block off the oil passages that originally fed the rocker shafts. The 1970 and later engines oil through the lifters and pushrods so you don't need those passages and your late 70's block doesn't have the provision anyway. That stuff should be covered in your book, too.
KrisW said:
Great advice.. Thanks the engine is bored over .030. I ran the head casting numbers and they come up as heads for the years 75-76. Ill keep an eye out for some 70 heads since those are straight bolt on. The book does have a section specifically for heads.. Im still studing it and when my other book comes in Ill reference that one too.
Lookin sweet!
I second using the V6 accessories and pulleys/brackets. That's what I did on my swap, right down to the HD V6 water pump.
The only thing non-V6 on the front of my 350 is the slightly longer alternator belt.
The problem with using a different accessory set-up is a lot of those older Buicks had more height to spare in the engine compartment. Using an early-style set-up on a G-body could lead to clearance issues with the hood...
I second using the V6 accessories and pulleys/brackets. That's what I did on my swap, right down to the HD V6 water pump.
The only thing non-V6 on the front of my 350 is the slightly longer alternator belt.
The problem with using a different accessory set-up is a lot of those older Buicks had more height to spare in the engine compartment. Using an early-style set-up on a G-body could lead to clearance issues with the hood...
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