4.1 v6 to buick 350 build (about time) lol

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Well got some progress on the engine 🙂 not much but some.. Thanks to Mel for letting me use his garage and tools to get a closer look at this engine.. too bad I had to jam out so early but.. time is what I have lol heres some picks of the begining of dissasembly... this engine must have been recently rebuild.. The pistons are bored .30 over anyways looks solid real clean.. heres some pics..
 

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G-Body_Vet said:
Looks a lot cleaner than what my Vin Griesel engine looked like

any tips on how to clean out the carbon build up from the piston tops?
 
I have some ideas, but it's probably best that someone who's well versed in "internal engine repair" chime in. I'd hate to recommend something that's detrimental to cylinder walls. Not that I doubt myself, but I don't like to spread misinformation.
 
G-Body_Vet said:
I have some ideas, but it's probably best that someone who's well versed in "internal engine repair" chime in. I'd hate to recommend something that's detrimental to cylinder walls. Not that I doubt myself, but I don't like to spread misinformation.


Im open to all ideas 🙂 Im gonna do some research and read your guys advice and tips and see what the best avenue is 🙂
 
im doing the same thing im taking out the 4.1 and dropping in a oldsmobile 307, alot of people said put the chevy 350 or a buick 350 in, but do what works for you. i picked the oldsmobile 307 its a good street engine, lots of parts for it check ebay
 
v2vera said:
G-Body_Vet said:
I have some ideas, but it's probably best that someone who's well versed in "internal engine repair" chime in. I'd hate to recommend something that's detrimental to cylinder walls. Not that I doubt myself, but I don't like to spread misinformation.


Im open to all ideas 🙂 Im gonna do some research and read your guys advice and tips and see what the best avenue is 🙂

I would think anything that's effective on carbon would work. Carb cleaner, oven cleaner, firearm bore cleaning solvent, etc. I'd probably use a nylon bristle brush if you have to scrub anything. The last thing you want to do is score or damage the cylinder walls.
 
G-Body_Vet said:
v2vera said:
G-Body_Vet said:
I have some ideas, but it's probably best that someone who's well versed in "internal engine repair" chime in. I'd hate to recommend something that's detrimental to cylinder walls. Not that I doubt myself, but I don't like to spread misinformation.


Im open to all ideas 🙂 Im gonna do some research and read your guys advice and tips and see what the best avenue is 🙂

I would think anything that's effective on carbon would work. Carb cleaner, oven cleaner, firearm bore cleaning solvent, etc. I'd probably use a nylon bristle brush if you have to scrub anything. The last thing you want to do is score or damage the cylinder walls.

I was thinking maybe letting it soak in some seafoam?
 
I use motor oil and a 3M pad on top of the pistons. I rotate it until it gets to the top, then clean it when its at the top. Wash it all off with WD-40 afterwards.

Everybody's different...

Since you have the engine all apart, absolutely DO pay attention to what the poster before said about the oiling system. I'm a Buick veteran and I can tell you, its the most important thing you can do. If you are going to do it yourself, at the very least you must do a few things.

1. Replace your front cam bearing with one of the "grooved" bearings that TA performance sells. This is not an option.
2. Take your timing cover off. Buy a new timing cover gasket from the auto parts store. Gasket match the oil holes from the block to the gasket, and the timing cover to the gasket with a dremel tool.
3. Buy and install the adjustable oil pressure regulator from TA Performance.
4. Buy the oil pump thrust plate and install it from TA Performance.
5. Buy the 5/8" oil pump pickup tube from TA Performance.
6. Buy a new oil pump pickup tube gasket from the auto parts store, and gasket match the block. Then install your bigger pickup tube.

For a normal street cruising, "FUN" engine, these little mods will make your engine last forever. For hard use and racing you need to do a bit more.

You will need to clearance your Air Conditioner box a little for the RH valve cover to clear. The Buick V6 is actually based off of the old 300 V8 and it uses a slightly narrower engine block. The 350 has a wider block due to the increased stroke having a bit of a problem in the 340 engine blocks. It fits, but its just too narrow and puts too much stress on the block. So, the 350 is a little wider, and it hits there.

You can use your CCC Quadrajet, but you have to do a few little mods.

-You need to remove the vacuum advance stuff from your HEI distributor. You will need to take the 7 pin module and wiring harness from your Buick V6 distributor and mount it in your V8 distributor, OR you can have someone just take the V6 gear off of the bottom and put your V8 gear back on to your original V6 distributor. Then put your V8 cap on it. The timing advance is run off of your ECM as well as the CCC Carb.

-You will need a PROM chip from a V8 car. The Olds 307 powered cars would be the best one to use. It needs the V8 chip so that it can tell the RPM signal that its getting is for an 8 cylinder engine. If you leave the V6 chip in there, your timing and fuel will be way off. You should be able to get a chip (or the whole ECM) from a wrecking yard for nearly nothing. You may even get a slight bump from a carbureted Z28 or Trans Am chip. The fuel injected chips won't work.

Good luck man!
 
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