BUILD THREAD '78 Cutlass Supreme Lichen Edition

Body solder and plumbing solder are the same thing just a different percentage of lead and tin.*
So, current plan is off-label use of a Harbor Freight $99 stud gun to fill the rivet holes with 2mm studs, which I will grind flush.


 
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So, current plan is off-label use of a Harbor Freight $99 stud gun to fill the rivet holes with 2mm studs, which I will grind flush.


I bought one of those too and haven't used it yet, and I never thought of using it that way but I really like the way you think!
 
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Behold: I've dipped my pinky toe in the waters of metalwork... I will eliminate the rivet holes from in my driveway. Push button, count to 4 or 5. $100 well spent!
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I love it. That's a great idea and I believe you'll find many other uses for that bad boy.
 
I was looking at another car and the rear windshield factory trim studs are not exactly in the middle of the ledge. My friend instructed me to lay the clip (bottomed-out) in the channel and to use a center punch at the top of the slanted slot to locate the trim screw/studs. I'll drill 5/64 holes, and use a dab of JB weld on the threads as I put the studs in.

Posting pictures to see better.
Consolidating reference links.




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G47 Olds Cutlass Rear Glass molding clip locations.jpg

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Had a day off and it was warm. Did my first application of polyester filler [ever] after some side conversation with Donovan... it's definitely on there too thick, but I'll take my time sanding/blending later. I'm happy to seal up that divot. Got a couple other places to fill to stop the decay... it doesn't need a lot of work.

I'm pretty sure I did not expose any lead here. Looks like body filler instead of lead. Is that true some cars have body filler and not lead?

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