BUILD THREAD 86 GP 2+2~Blown 6.0
- Thread starter 81cutlass
- Start date
Pretty good, it shakes a bit since the front tires are from like 95 and the driveshaft isnt balanced. The hood doesnt close all the way and theres no carpet and the exhaust hits the floor so its loud.
But otherwise the brakes (from 98 at the latest) work good, it drives straight, seems like the ride is decent. Overall i'm happy.
Shifting the 6 speed is fun. Clutch engagement is good. Needs some tuning work.
I'm excited!
But otherwise the brakes (from 98 at the latest) work good, it drives straight, seems like the ride is decent. Overall i'm happy.
Shifting the 6 speed is fun. Clutch engagement is good. Needs some tuning work.
I'm excited!
What yall think about the c4'motor out of corvette going in a 86 cuttyAlmost done with engineering school and wanted to play around on the HAAS CNC mill and maybe design and sell a blower manifold for LS engines. Project didn't go through but I had most of the parts so I am continuing. Bought a 6.0 for $200 this spring, GT500 blower, ect. Was destined for a C4 vette.
2+2 came up for sale and was perfect for the goal of a road race kinda car. Probably go t56 eventually.
Car was from the original family. Spend most of its life in Texas and came to MN in the mid 90's. Blew up in 97 and got a 350 swapped in that never ran right. Mice got in the interior in the meantime and the owner kinda moved on.
Body is great minus a dent in the drivers fender and passenger quarter. No real rust from what I can see. Still need to do an inventory on the interior to see whats gone. Needs work but I can definitely do something with it.
And the engine that is going in.
Updates!
Got the rear in, i had my thread here. https://gbodyforum.com/threads/zr2-s10-8-6-rear-in-a-g-body-build.63106/
Basically disk 3.73 8.6 30 spline 5x4.75 zr2 rear in a G body, runs vette or 4th gen f body backspace wheels. Should be a strong 9 sec capable rear for like $500. No exotic welding (same amount as an 8.8 stang rear swap) and a bolt on rear plate that sandwiches between the diff housing and cover and has provisions for the upper arms.
Made a plate
Welded
Welded assembly
In
Needs a taller tire and lower
And carpet
Turns out its a lot quieter and I dont NEED an exhaust right now like i thought! And the door panel for the drivers side is on too.
Got the rear in, i had my thread here. https://gbodyforum.com/threads/zr2-s10-8-6-rear-in-a-g-body-build.63106/
Basically disk 3.73 8.6 30 spline 5x4.75 zr2 rear in a G body, runs vette or 4th gen f body backspace wheels. Should be a strong 9 sec capable rear for like $500. No exotic welding (same amount as an 8.8 stang rear swap) and a bolt on rear plate that sandwiches between the diff housing and cover and has provisions for the upper arms.
Made a plate
Welded
Welded assembly
In
Needs a taller tire and lower
And carpet
Turns out its a lot quieter and I dont NEED an exhaust right now like i thought! And the door panel for the drivers side is on too.
So if you have a loud car, just put carpet in it. It will quiet it right up! Haha!
I can close my hood now. Finally!
LS2 TB. Designed an adapter plate and machined it on my buddies bridgeport.
I also belt a "wedge" spacer/reinforcement plate for my clutch master. The firewall is just too think and there really isnt anything flat to bolt it onto. It broke the first time a few months ago because it was mounted a bit to high but I think it bent the firewall and got out of alignment. It moved down 1" when I put this one in and it started off good but started getting bindy. I looked and the bolts were loose but when I tightened them they sucked the master up to the firewall nice and bent the firewall putting it out of alignment. I made a 10 degree spacer or so and its nice and solid and in good alignment now. I don't feel bad, it feels a lot better.
I really gotta get that dang fender fixed... But the hood closes.
I didn't finish the surface all that well with the ball mill, just knocked the high spots out.
I went in with a die grinder and cleaned the rough stuff up.
Had to dent the booster where the TB motor is but its nice and right in there.
Car is on speed density tune now. I have never done HPtuners speed density so there is a bit of learning to do. Its running at like 10.5 afr or so and coughs and runs funny sometimes. Thats the next thing to work on.
LS2 TB. Designed an adapter plate and machined it on my buddies bridgeport.
I also belt a "wedge" spacer/reinforcement plate for my clutch master. The firewall is just too think and there really isnt anything flat to bolt it onto. It broke the first time a few months ago because it was mounted a bit to high but I think it bent the firewall and got out of alignment. It moved down 1" when I put this one in and it started off good but started getting bindy. I looked and the bolts were loose but when I tightened them they sucked the master up to the firewall nice and bent the firewall putting it out of alignment. I made a 10 degree spacer or so and its nice and solid and in good alignment now. I don't feel bad, it feels a lot better.
I really gotta get that dang fender fixed... But the hood closes.
I didn't finish the surface all that well with the ball mill, just knocked the high spots out.
I went in with a die grinder and cleaned the rough stuff up.
Had to dent the booster where the TB motor is but its nice and right in there.
Car is on speed density tune now. I have never done HPtuners speed density so there is a bit of learning to do. Its running at like 10.5 afr or so and coughs and runs funny sometimes. Thats the next thing to work on.
Been doing a little stuff here and there.
Replaced the factory 99+ ls temp sensor with the 98 ls1 style. This one has the 0 to 90 ohm GM range to run the factory water temp gage. My room mate had a leftover 3 prong plug in his old fiero harness that he swapped so I borrowed permanently with no intent to return and soldered it in place of the factory plug. Ran a new wire to the dark green wire on the factory GP harness and its golden. Works good. It is funny to see how much GM lies on those old temp sensors. HP tuners reads right at 190 which is what the t stat is, the GM gage is like 160 maybe, haha.
Got the 20 years of cat piss, mold, and dirt off the console. The PO was kinda a hack and totally destroyed the top plate of the factory console. I have been trying to put it back together. Problem the the GP console is the height. I have some replacement hurst shifter handle that is a "short throw" by being shorter than factory. The GP console hole is farther forward than my shifter was so I had to make a forward and up bracket. It fits better than the photo but still kinda meh. The problem is shifting to 1, 3 and 5 it kinda goes "down" when it goes forward because of the radius of the throws. Still unsure. Might have to go with a 2nd gen console which i really dont want to.
I also decided the driveshaft needed to be replaced. I had cut down a stock one but it is too long for the new 8.5 rear and just barely clears the t56 output. The car has a goofy shake in it too and since this was indicated "straight" by an indicator i stuck to the floorpan I decided it was time. Its an ebay used "nascar" shaft, 48" long, 3.5 diam 1330 U joints. Got some of those 1350 to 1330 conversion joints. 1350 th350 output yokes are cheapish and the rear input yoke is actually an H2 hummer one, they came with the 30 spline input and 1350. That way you can get a quality, forged yoke for high volume prices. Same thing as you would get in a strange for less than half the price.
Custom driveshaft mfg is the most lucritive high profit margin business out there in the performance world at least. $400 for a chunk of tube with some broached forged parts welded to it is insane. When you can get a brand new 1310 shaft for $140, it shouldn't cost $400 to make a 1330 or 1350 one. They all take the same operations, it would be marginally higher since there is more material but labor is the same. Its all because people will pay for it and one of those voodoo things people can't normally do in their garage so they charge out the butt for off the shelf parts with very few value added operations (cut tube, weld, balance, paint, ship). Enough for my rant of the day....
Replaced the factory 99+ ls temp sensor with the 98 ls1 style. This one has the 0 to 90 ohm GM range to run the factory water temp gage. My room mate had a leftover 3 prong plug in his old fiero harness that he swapped so I borrowed permanently with no intent to return and soldered it in place of the factory plug. Ran a new wire to the dark green wire on the factory GP harness and its golden. Works good. It is funny to see how much GM lies on those old temp sensors. HP tuners reads right at 190 which is what the t stat is, the GM gage is like 160 maybe, haha.
Got the 20 years of cat piss, mold, and dirt off the console. The PO was kinda a hack and totally destroyed the top plate of the factory console. I have been trying to put it back together. Problem the the GP console is the height. I have some replacement hurst shifter handle that is a "short throw" by being shorter than factory. The GP console hole is farther forward than my shifter was so I had to make a forward and up bracket. It fits better than the photo but still kinda meh. The problem is shifting to 1, 3 and 5 it kinda goes "down" when it goes forward because of the radius of the throws. Still unsure. Might have to go with a 2nd gen console which i really dont want to.
I also decided the driveshaft needed to be replaced. I had cut down a stock one but it is too long for the new 8.5 rear and just barely clears the t56 output. The car has a goofy shake in it too and since this was indicated "straight" by an indicator i stuck to the floorpan I decided it was time. Its an ebay used "nascar" shaft, 48" long, 3.5 diam 1330 U joints. Got some of those 1350 to 1330 conversion joints. 1350 th350 output yokes are cheapish and the rear input yoke is actually an H2 hummer one, they came with the 30 spline input and 1350. That way you can get a quality, forged yoke for high volume prices. Same thing as you would get in a strange for less than half the price.
Custom driveshaft mfg is the most lucritive high profit margin business out there in the performance world at least. $400 for a chunk of tube with some broached forged parts welded to it is insane. When you can get a brand new 1310 shaft for $140, it shouldn't cost $400 to make a 1330 or 1350 one. They all take the same operations, it would be marginally higher since there is more material but labor is the same. Its all because people will pay for it and one of those voodoo things people can't normally do in their garage so they charge out the butt for off the shelf parts with very few value added operations (cut tube, weld, balance, paint, ship). Enough for my rant of the day....
I have not tried other handles. I could certainly try something longer if this option doesnt work. I have test drove it a bit with my hacked elbow part and seems ok. I might get some miles and see if i can shift it fast.
I got the driveshaft in it this week. Drove it a bit and the shaft doesn't shake at all which is nice.
Car does a good burnout and runs good, only problem is it doesnt start good when hot, and it always cuts off fuel on decel which is fine on an auto but it doesnt recover and dies when i push the clutch in. Just tuning stuff.
I havn't seen it posted well but the GM 7.5 8.6 (and most other GM stuff) run a s44 or 3rl GM style U joint. It is similar to a 1330 but has internal C rings to retain the caps.
The input yoke was off a 04 H2 hummer, same with the u joint straps. Hummer yoke has some oil slinger or something
And its in
I got the driveshaft in it this week. Drove it a bit and the shaft doesn't shake at all which is nice.
Car does a good burnout and runs good, only problem is it doesnt start good when hot, and it always cuts off fuel on decel which is fine on an auto but it doesnt recover and dies when i push the clutch in. Just tuning stuff.
I havn't seen it posted well but the GM 7.5 8.6 (and most other GM stuff) run a s44 or 3rl GM style U joint. It is similar to a 1330 but has internal C rings to retain the caps.
The input yoke was off a 04 H2 hummer, same with the u joint straps. Hummer yoke has some oil slinger or something
And its in
Your good! All I see is nice work on this thread I'm kinda jellous of your machine workI can close my hood now. Finally!
LS2 TB. Designed an adapter plate and machined it on my buddies bridgeport.
I also belt a "wedge" spacer/reinforcement plate for my clutch master. The firewall is just too think and there really isnt anything flat to bolt it onto. It broke the first time a few months ago because it was mounted a bit to high but I think it bent the firewall and got out of alignment. It moved down 1" when I put this one in and it started off good but started getting bindy. I looked and the bolts were loose but when I tightened them they sucked the master up to the firewall nice and bent the firewall putting it out of alignment. I made a 10 degree spacer or so and its nice and solid and in good alignment now. I don't feel bad, it feels a lot better.
I really gotta get that dang fender fixed... But the hood closes.
I didn't finish the surface all that well with the ball mill, just knocked the high spots out.
I went in with a die grinder and cleaned the rough stuff up.
Had to dent the booster where the TB motor is but its nice and right in there.
Car is on speed density tune now. I have never done HPtuners speed density so there is a bit of learning to do. Its running at like 10.5 afr or so and coughs and runs funny sometimes. Thats the next thing to work on.
