You could build a basic version of this in a day, or find a donor for the frame and smash a box on it.
BUILD THREAD 86 GP 2+2~Blown 6.0
- Thread starter 81cutlass
- Start date
Demons and Redeyes et al would disagree.
Jeep Trackhawk Interchiller Review
www.hellcat.org
Those lines look pretty frosty. The high capacity systems (on both the AC and intercooler HX side) seem to be the difference makers.
Demons and Redeyes et al would disagree.
Jeep Trackhawk Interchiller Review
Those lines look pretty frosty. The high capacity systems (on both the AC and intercooler HX side) seem to be the difference makers.
Interesting. I guess they do get the water a lot cooler than I thought. I assumed they only got the water to 40F but they get it down to sub 10F. Might be worth addressing after all. Potentially the newer AC pumps are bigger and more efficient than the Sanden style I have also? Lots more water volume also possibly? Probably a back shelf project, but I did pull it out of the trash. FI interchillers seems very quiet about their systems as far as providing tech info.
On the tuning front-
I did some test pulls with the more aggressive timing and the results are good. Rods are still in the block and no KR (but I need to see if my Knock sensors are really 'on').
The only semi concerning this is my fuel pressure is kinda sagging higher in the pulls even with the second pump. It has no issue holding 66 psi (1 psi of fuel per psi of boost) for the first 75% of the pull and then randomly drops to 60, boosts back up to 63 and then falls to 60. Possibly a wiring issue? I should look at my relay pack. Seems like a pump might be cutting in and out potentially? It's capable of making the pressure it just seems odd that it comes and goes.
My other screwy tuning this is my idle when the AC pump kicks on. I have been trying to get the idle to bump up 200 rpm or so when I command the AC pump on. I am using all the stock G body AC control system so all I want to do is have the PCM command higher idle when I command the AC clutch. I am feeding 12V to the Red 17 pin on the PCM which is AC request but it wasn't working.
I found that you also need to ground Red 55 to simulate a low pressure switch closing. Got that working and it still doesn't bump idle.
I also have this annoying spark surge when the pump turns on because it lugs the idle down. Not sure if it's going into stall saver mode or some other random table.
BAH! Stock ECM life....
Because I like looking at both sides of a problem, here is an interchiller/trunk ice tank delete to just a 3 gallon ice box swap:
Stinkeye Challenger build....
Holy crap cakes ! [emoji44] Sent from my BBF100-2 using Tapatalk
www.hellcatforum.org
Granted this is not a street car (ie. pushed to the line), and is chasing extreme weight savings. So, it's apples to oranges.
Here's the car they are referring to:
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Butt dyno is out of calibration but HPT is in cal
The answer is yeah. Little apples to oranges since at the track I have 275/60-15 DR's and street is 275/40-17 so the true vs HPT mph is a little off due to tire height. The car is actually moving faster than HPT says it is on DR's so it's going to look slower at the track because of the speed error.
All my checks were in 3rd gear because the car won't hook in 2nd not on DR's.
4380-5660 RPM pull on street tires (70-94 llamas/hour), 2.27 seconds
same pull range on DR's, 2.801
So a little over 1/2 second faster from 70-94 llamas/hr.
Did the same range but starting from a higher RPM
2.6s on low timing and 1.89s on high timing. So about 0.7s faster.
And for an apples to apples comparison (I trust this a lot more)
2500-5250 pull, 4.485s on low timing and 4.077 on high timing. So basically 0.4s faster.
Damn, he sure threw the warranty out of the picture fast lol.Because I like looking at both sides of a problem, here is an interchiller/trunk ice tank delete to just a 3 gallon ice box swap:
Stinkeye Challenger build....
Holy crap cakes ! [emoji44] Sent from my BBF100-2 using Tapatalk
Granted this is not a street car (ie. pushed to the line), and is chasing extreme weight savings. So, it's apples to oranges.
Here's the car they are referring to:
Interesting. Ill have to digest that a bit.
I think Dodge banks on owners destroying warranties.
One other thing you may wish to consider is insulating the blower from the heads/block with a phenolic material. I don't believe your setup has an air gap between the blower case and the long block. But, there is evidence of lowered IATs from heat saturation through insulation.
Butt dyno is out of calibration but HPT is in cal
Little apples to oranges since at the track I have 275/60-15 DR's and street is 275/40-17 so the true vs HPT mph is a little off due to tire height. The car is actually moving faster than HPT says it is on DR's so it's going to look slower at the track because of the speed error.
All my checks were in 3rd gear because the car won't hook in 2nd not on DR's.
4380-5660 RPM pull on street tires (70-94 llamas/hour), 2.27 seconds
same pull range on DR's, 2.801
So a little over 1/2 second faster from 70-94 llamas/hr.
Did the same range but starting from a higher RPM
2.6s on low timing and 1.89s on high timing. So about 0.7s faster.
And for an apples to apples comparison (I trust this a lot more)
2500-5250 pull, 4.485s on low timing and 4.077 on high timing. So basically 0.4s faster.
Damn, he sure threw the warranty out of the picture fast lol.
Interesting. Ill have to digest that a bit.
70 llamas is no small improvement. Nice! PLUS RODS STILL IN THE BLOCK!!! #Winning!
I wouldn't like putting tires in the back seat. I like your caddy way better.
Well I spent Saturday organizing the garage and doing trim work in the house so I procrastinated until Sunday night to deal with my idle RPM sag when the AC is on.
Since I am doing HR power tour in a few weeks the car is going to sit in traffic a lot and I want my AC to work. The AC works but it doesn't like to idle when the pump is on, and it always dies when I am coasting to a stop and the pump is on.
I did the hook the Red 17 request pin on the ECM to 12V when the compressor turns on to try to bump the idle RPM but it didn't work. I found out it needs to see ground on red 55 but that still didn't work.
When I did hook up both pins it started idling worse and pulling timing. So I went full on HPT forum archaeologist and had to find like 6 tables to change to get the idle to actually bump when the AC compressor is commanded.
First, the ECM is allowed to pull timing when the AC is on. That happened sporadically to me. I zeroed that out and it helped the dying due to way low timing but still surged and didn't bump idle.
Then I learned about Long an Short term idle trims (STIT, LTIT). I also turned on the AC active vs AC request to see when the AC was being requested vs when the ECM determined the conditions were met that it allowed it to turn on an thus bump the idle.
I found out if the idle adapt STIT and LTIT are really toward their limit, even if the car idles OK with the AC off, it won't allow itself to enter AC enable mode.
So I had about 0.6lb./min of combined short and long term error so I added 0.7lb/min to the idle airflow table
THEN it finally allowed the AC idle to bump when it was commanded. I noticed I had about 0.2lb/min of STIT error when the AC was on and the ECM was only commanding 0.2lb/min of airflow to compensate for the AC comp when it was bumping the idle so I had to increase the AC inertia torque by 50% and it commanded 0.3lb/min and got me a little less on the error.
SO the result. When I request AC and the STIT and LTIT are NOT maxed out, it idles 975
And when I dont want AC it idles 775. Cool!
It only took 2 hours of HPTuners forum digging and about 8 different posts to piece together the timing thing, the wiring, the airflow, what tables to adjust and all that jazz.
Since I am doing HR power tour in a few weeks the car is going to sit in traffic a lot and I want my AC to work. The AC works but it doesn't like to idle when the pump is on, and it always dies when I am coasting to a stop and the pump is on.
I did the hook the Red 17 request pin on the ECM to 12V when the compressor turns on to try to bump the idle RPM but it didn't work. I found out it needs to see ground on red 55 but that still didn't work.
When I did hook up both pins it started idling worse and pulling timing. So I went full on HPT forum archaeologist and had to find like 6 tables to change to get the idle to actually bump when the AC compressor is commanded.
First, the ECM is allowed to pull timing when the AC is on. That happened sporadically to me. I zeroed that out and it helped the dying due to way low timing but still surged and didn't bump idle.
Then I learned about Long an Short term idle trims (STIT, LTIT). I also turned on the AC active vs AC request to see when the AC was being requested vs when the ECM determined the conditions were met that it allowed it to turn on an thus bump the idle.
I found out if the idle adapt STIT and LTIT are really toward their limit, even if the car idles OK with the AC off, it won't allow itself to enter AC enable mode.
So I had about 0.6lb./min of combined short and long term error so I added 0.7lb/min to the idle airflow table
THEN it finally allowed the AC idle to bump when it was commanded. I noticed I had about 0.2lb/min of STIT error when the AC was on and the ECM was only commanding 0.2lb/min of airflow to compensate for the AC comp when it was bumping the idle so I had to increase the AC inertia torque by 50% and it commanded 0.3lb/min and got me a little less on the error.
SO the result. When I request AC and the STIT and LTIT are NOT maxed out, it idles 975
And when I dont want AC it idles 775. Cool!
It only took 2 hours of HPTuners forum digging and about 8 different posts to piece together the timing thing, the wiring, the airflow, what tables to adjust and all that jazz.
