What kind of clutch master/slave are you running again? The stock stuff uses orifices and causes shifting issues when you rip on the car.
What kind of clutch master/slave are you running again? The stock stuff uses orifices and causes shifting issues when you rip on the car.
Master is a 3rd gen camaro T5
Slave is a howe T5 hydro TOB conversion part
So I did some digging and this is the dyno chart of a 6.2 with a maggie and 6psi on 91 with the same BTR stage 2 blower cam.
I can see how Carl the tuner (who has built and tuned dozens of LSA cars) was saying this cam should make peak power at 6600 and to not be a panzy and spin the thing. I am probably giving up 20+hp at the top of the RPM range and at least 30 at the bottom.
I need to stop being a dummy and fix my fuel lol.
I don't know if I would put it quite that way lol.So I did some digging and this is the dyno chart of a 6.2 with a maggie and 6psi on 91 with the same BTR stage 2 blower cam.
I can see how Carl the tuner (who has built and tuned dozens of LSA cars) was saying this cam should make peak power at 6600 and to not be a panzy and spin the thing. I am probably giving up 20+hp at the top of the RPM range and at least 30 at the bottom.
I need to stop being a dummy and fix my fuel lol.
I can see how Carl the tuner (who has built and tuned dozens of LSA cars) was saying this cam should make peak power at 6600 and to not be a panzy and spin the thing. I am probably giving up 20+hp at the top of the RPM range and at least 30 at the bottom.
I need to stop being a dummy and fix my fuel lol.
Did the 3rd gen use an orifice like the 4th gen in the line? I could see such a thing causing a pressure spike when you pound on the pedal for a man shift. And is this car running a T5?! If so I'd be far less scared of the diff esploding than your 3rd gear. Pardon my ignorance, I thought you had a T56. I put a Tick/Tilton master in my Z06 and it was a game changer for sure.
I don't know if I would put it quite that way lol.
You're 60's are great afaic for a stick car that is completely streetable. It took me a bit to get consistently below 1.7 with an auto. I think holding the rpms below 6200 is hurting. Let it run to high 6's should help. How much rpm's drop are you seeing in every gear? Are you able to keep it 4800-5000 on the shifts? I know I've asked this before, but I've forgotten.
Notice the EQ ratio curve is the inverse of the torque curve?
You will need slightly different fuel and spark values between MBT and peak power.
We don't have yards like that here.Had some errands to run CONVENIENTLY in the town where my favorite salvage yard is (how odd!, lol), so I stopped at the salvage yard. Funny how those things work! I only have a few days left of 'Jake is selectively unemployed for a month between his Master's schooling and starting work again' time off so I wanted to get in a run before winter.
Grabbed a good drivers door mirror since the one on the car is all floppy, I'll save and swap when the car is painted. Some seat belt bolt trim covers, a trim piece for the Rainier I broke, and a Saturn Vue compass/thermostat rear view mirror that I plan to swap this fall or spring.
Did a thorough view of all 73/4 Omegas to see if I can find enough good parts to piece the lightly wrecked one I found out in SD last month.
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