BUILD THREAD 86 GP 2+2~Blown 6.0

Yeah, I think most everyone is getting what I am, an 8.8 ford is maybe a bit stronger than the 8.5 GM but they are in the same ballpark.

The Strange D60 is a bit cheaper than the 9" actually and like mentioned you can get GM pattern ends and run B body/blazer/f body disks. Add $175 in this total to get a trutrac style diff vs. the clutch style but yeah.

Like I mentioned, I am going to put the 8.5 back in this car and see what my bank account looks like in the spring.

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Dang, that Strange is not as expensive as I would've thought. Probably another $3-500 for brakes.
 
Before I bought the S60 I asked a lot of questions directly with Strange. If I remember correctly they rated it for 1200hp but also said that many were far above this and no problems. I took that route because it was less $ than the 9.
Also because 9 3/4" ring gear is bigger than 9" obviously. The only downside is there are less gearing options.
 
Before I bought the S60 I asked a lot of questions directly with Strange. If I remember correctly they rated it for 1200hp but also said that many were far above this and no problems. I took that route because it was less $ than the 9.
Also because 9 3/4" ring gear is bigger than 9" obviously. The only downside is there are less gearing options.
I believe those ratings mostly pertain to all motor and nitrous cars, basically something that hits on the line like a sledgehammer.

1200hp on a turbo application is not the same. The same applies mostly to a blower car as well.
 
Before I bought the S60 I asked a lot of questions directly with Strange. If I remember correctly they rated it for 1200hp but also said that many were far above this and no problems. I took that route because it was less $ than the 9.
Also because 9 3/4" ring gear is bigger than 9" obviously. The only downside is there are less gearing options.

What rear brake option did you go with? GM or Ford ends?
 
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Also-

I pulled the plugs to *try* and check that my timing made sense.

Basically I learned
1. The plug needs to be fresh before the pass (not have 500 miles on like these)
2. You need to check the plug in the shutdown, 2 minutes of idling to the pits & on/off the trailer will contaminate the plug and not give you a reading
3. I probably need to run a BR7EF or at least not an extended tip TR6 style plug like I have been

I guess the good news is they aren't melted so I don't have too much timing it in.
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I have a bit poor data to go on but I THINK the very tip that's clean is where the timing mark starts, so if I put a fresh plug in & make a pass and it looks like this, I can put 3-5 degrees more into it and be safe.

I just have little certainty about if this strap had a lot of white combustion haze from the 500 mile drive, how much changed in the 2 minutes of idling these plugs have, etc. At least I have a plan for next year and the plugs came out clean so there's likely no internal engine damage with 170 IAT, 18-19 degrees on E70 with 11.5 psi.
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My only concern was if my timing mark is the red line or the blue line, but I had poor data to go off with idling an not fresh plugs so my data is minimally helpful.
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Oh. And I yanked my non-functional EQ radio out. The screen is dead and it is increasingly intermittently functional.

My Fiero electrical engineer buddy figured out how to put an AUX input in these old DIN delco radios and wanted to try it on an EQ radio, but they are hard to find. When he found out I had one I wasn't attached to he hatched a plan and found me a functional non EQ radio and I'm trading him my EQ core for him to try to fix and play around with.
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Please move to a non-extended tip sir, ASAP.

View attachment 208802

So dumb question

Why are extended tips bad? Are they more at risk of Kabooms, blowing spark out? Something else?

The interwebz says tr6 are ok under 10 psi and br7ef are recommend 10-22 psi and br8ef are 22+, but I don't understand the pros and cons of extended or non extended tip plugs
 
There are two schools of thought on the plugs. Protruded gives a more efficient burn cycle due to the spark being farther into the combustion chamber creating a better flame front. The non protruded is harder to blow out. Kinda pick your poison.

edit : ^^^^is my opinion from what I've seen and heard

I've ran both. I stopped using the protruded plug over 15psi. And I'm using the heat range 7's - the exact plug that Chris linked and I'm making well over 22 psi most of the time. I'm yet to blow out the spark. I've wanted to try a set of 8's, but.........I haven't yet. Solely because I drive the car on the street plenty. I've heard, repeat heard, that an 8 might be worth a little more HP, but then you get into different fuel types for the heat range of the plug and all that nonsense.

This has turned into 'use what works' situation for me. I'm yet to blow out a 7 heat range non-protruded plug at 30+ psi so that's what I'm sticking with for the moment. I'm curious what Chris' brother is using in his car as he is consistently over 30psi and whatever he is doing is working. But the caveat is that I don't believe he drives on the street much.
 
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