BUILD THREAD 87 Cutlass EFI build: 9/13/23..NEW STUFF!

Is it me, or is it still high in front even after getting the powertrain in?
You're far more patient than I. Get that thing driving already!
Must have UMI springs in it......
Yep, it's still sitting about an inch higher in the front than the rear. I measured a few weeks back and the rear from ground to wheelwell lip was 27", front was 28". The Hotchkis rear springs already have a good amount of miles on them, but the front springs are basically new with maybe 10 miles on them. After it gets an alignment and some miles I hope the front comes down some.
Worst case scenario it gets a ball joint change, maybe 1/4 coil cut, or Blazer hub style drop spindles(ooof they pricey!).

To Fleming....I planned on getting the fuel lines buttoned up today, but niece graduated from high school, and the wife dropped a honeydo list which has eaten the afternoon! I might go out when the kids crash and see what I can get done.
 
Got my fuel line situation pretty much squared away. I need to order a fitting so I can mount my FPR directly to the driver side rail. Then it's just a matter of measuring and trimming the crossover and return lines and the fuel system will be finished!
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Yeah, I like the glass hood. However, if I do it again I won't buy from UP22. That thing needed way more fine tuning than it should've for what it cost. Also, I don't like that it only uses 1/4-20 mounting hardware...I just have to remind myself to be easy on it.

This is exactly why I love this forum! Most people are honest and express true opinions -- pros and cons. Usually, people tend to always praise what they bought because they must prove to themselves that they've made the right choice. However, on our famous G-Body Forum, I've noticed that most folks express true experiences that really help others make the right decisions! Kudos to you, Injectedcutty, and the rest of the G-Body gang!
 
Another quick update. As mentioned a week ago, I received the adapter fitting to mount the regulator to the rail. Now that the main fuel lines are situated, I yet again pulled the intake to cover the remaining wiring which I did earlier. I also had to get some 45° elbows (thanks D) to properly route the rear steam line so it didn't interfere...
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With that done I was finally able to install the O rings onto the intake and torque it down! I've got a couple things to address, then I'll install the rails and most of the fuel lines which won't be an issue. It's now late and I'm gonna kick myself in the morning, but progress was made. That's it for now guys, thanks as always for checking in.
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I'm trying to keep momentum going so I got to it for a bit earlier. I had to change one of the vacuum fittings on back of the intake for the regulator reference port but that was easy. Then I routed the steam line and discovered I could hide it pretty good in the intake.
Next, I installed the driver side injectors (thanks Mike) and fuel rail. I hooked up all the wiring, and attached the rear fuel line to find it hits the firewall now grrrrr!!!! So, I'll have to swap the 45 elbow out for a 90.
After looking at the wiring it was bothering me and I realized I could tuck it behind the rail and it essentially disappears. Remember, my main goal is to make an EFI setup look as slick and clean as possible. Hopefully it's hitting the mark.
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That's it for the night, I'm gonna keep chipping away at it.
 
Last night I was fiddling around with the throttle cable and how to mount it. The billet bracket I bought came with two clamps so I mounted them on the low side of the intake. It looked okay, but looked like the throttle cable was being pulled too tight. See pic....
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Donovan suggested I move them to the top. I didn't have long enough bolts, so I grabbed some today and promptly got to it when I got home. Safe to say he was right, it looks more natural and the curve of the cable looks fluid. Yes, I'm that guy that worries about stupid details as such, but that's what separates a decent(I hope) show car and a tossed together mess(my car on first swap at 19 yrs old). With that tackled, I tucked the wires and plugged mostly everything in. I still need to build a charge wire for the alt, mount the IAT sensor, swap the hose ends to 90° ends, but it's getting closer. Not sure what else I'll get done this weekend as it's gonna be busy, but I'm gonna keep after it.
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I forgot to mention that I got in some T bolt style stainless band clamps for the radiator hoses. These should grip great without jacking the hose up like most worm gear clamps do.
Also, I was able to locate a black -6 90° fitting locally, so I swapped it out on the rear driver side feed line. Now I just need to come up with a solution for the return line. Donovan gave me a good idea, but it would suck to accomplish it. I have some contemplating to do.
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Haven't made much progress this week as it's been hot as hell and I've been kinda lazy. I have been fighting with the aftermarket sheetmetal rad hold down, and determined it's just not meant to work with this shorter Champion radiator. Soooo, a week or two ago I acquired a stock hold down from a member here since I sold mine a couple years back like a dumbass.

The stock unit works way better, just needs a sandblast and paint or powdercoat. This also meant I had to change how the e-fans mount, and surprisingly the mount holes line up perfectly to the hold down. So, I measured up some brackets, went nextdoor to use better tools, and hung the fans. I need to fine tune the brackets, but almost there finally.
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