BUILD THREAD 87 Cutlass EFI build: 9/13/23..NEW STUFF!

Looks fine but you would check it in neutral for pinion suspicions and in park for u joint . I used to squeeze under and reach arm to the ujoint then have some one shift with motor running from drive to reverse if the knuckles on the driveshaft deveated on movement (sechronicitie)more then say .025 thousanths it's time to check the ujoint pins and there lube taking notes for any future cross state driving ect generally fine for local jumps. We need to know if your in neutral with the wheels both of the ground if it'd possi Trac or one wheel up if it's limited it's probably fine but really for the farm hands "out there pouring old motor oil in worn ujoints keep them going longer okay if you got limited differential jack the right rear ( or left ) tire off the ground havr it high enough to crawl close to driveshaft with your face take your foot and rock the rear tire while staring at the driveshaft and each ujoint in turn ( reposition) to much play at the ring gear will show at the rear yoke as slack between separate motions lets say 20 degrees might be ok free play there .and feeling with your hands the distance between the saddles of the joints could show gross slack (interpreted as wear) failing to find excess slack simply means your safe for the time being.but seriously I understand you have suspicions about a clunk or vibration. Let me stuck my neck out here..lol" if it is the driveshaft vibrating look at it with the car jacked up axle on stands /blocks" so it can spin.watch what you see under the car...use a block of wood (jackstands)or helper to run car off ground while looking at drive shaft . Is the rear shaking,? it's proubly miscentered on the rear yoke is the front shaking it could be that the front yoke is bent or has a badly installed (off-center) joint .obviously if there's a significant dent in the driveshaft body it proubly needs replaced.if you driveshaft isnt shaking say more then 1/16 what your feeling could / could not be in your tires for for example.bad belts .to check them here again...lol tire off ground so you can turn them by hand ( warm weather test) set a can or brick very close to the tread rotate tire by hand car put otcin neutral: watch the brick or can (ect.)as the tire is close to the object you placed near tread do you see 1/8"difference in the space between the rotating tire and what you placed near the tread ? You do you see 3/16" deviance between half the tread symmetry? That's enough right there to produce and annoying vibration. Below 1/8" diversity you have a good tire .Ok im going to say thanks for listening hope you find out whats going on below
 
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Was piddling around in the garage last night and decided to cut up my aftermarket SS laydown spoiler. I really like the look of the notch, it's what I wanted to do 10 years ago. Still searching for a brave soul to take on this task of making one. If not I'm gonna force myself to learn to make a mold and do it my dang self.
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Might look good to radius the notch to match the top ends??
 
Making a mold and then making the part is very doable. However the time spent is very consuming. I don't think you would be able to charge enough to make it viable. A guy on YouTube named Dash used a newer Challenger piece that fit nearly perfectly. I believe it was an ebay piece and inexpensive yet looks good
 
Maybe use Balsa wood to make your spoiler and then a layer of fiberglass over it when the mock up is done.
That would work along with foam. That type of foam he is using may be questionable. The form needs to be perfect. Unless he lays filler down and basically does bodywork. I'm interested for sure. I did this with structural 'foam', fiberglass and carbon fiber. A lot easier than it sounds.
 

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