A Fabricobbler's Guide to the Turbo Buick Galaxy- Cutlass Rehash

The other method that works really well is to drill multiple 3/8” holes around the perimeter of the middle insert. Knock the insert out, then collapse the rubber in on itself with the void left, knock it out, then repeat the collapsing technique with the outer shell.

The whole process can be done in less than 5-10 minutes per bushing.
I worked a lot harder than that. I'll have to commit that to memory!
 
Backyard paint booth

And my wife stole my phone and snapped a picture of me...

Just a quick shot of enamel implement paint.

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It's funny how we, the people who home build, are almost never caught in the act.

No TV camera crews following us around documenting our gaffs. Family avoids us because we are either very dirty or very grumpy or both - at any given moment.
 
The trick to replacing those bushings is: a cutting torch. Start the rubber on fire. Once it is burning good. Knock the center out with a punch and hammer. Then cut the iner race part. Knock those peices out. Flap wheel the hole and press new ones in. No big deal, but it tends to piss everyone around you off though.
this does work well. but a word of caution: don't do this in your garage if its attached to your house, it generates a lot of smoke and the smell is horrible.
also, like any time your working with flame, make sure you have a working fire extinguisher standing by.
my garage is attached and has a living quarter above it. so i use the drilling method. it works great.
 
Well I had a made up deadline to get the car back on the ground this weekend and I missed it but not by much.

Saturday I pressed the UCA bushings in, pressed in ball joints and bolted everything back on the car. Got springs, shocks, and all that jazz in.

Today I swapped brake hoses, was going to swap the passenger side caliper to my spare that was off the wagon due to a broken bleeder and I proceeded to break the spare caliper bleeder too. So out came the welder and mini torch and about an hour to get that stuck bleeder out. Should have bought a reman caliper but I'm 90% sure I'm putting ls1 front calipers in this winter and I refuse to spend a dime on stock stuff.

Assembled the steering parts and bolted on. Wife helped bleed brakes and the drivers side bleeder was plugged so I swapped that with a new bleeder and got them bled.

Still need to connect the sway bar links, give it a quick guess alignment and put the tires on.

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Victory!
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Got a minor case of Carolina Squat going on here. 1/2" higher in the front but the springs haven't had a chance to settle and the alignment is wack so I'll reserve my opinion until I get some miles.

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I'm very curious of the weight split. Would love to see a weight slip.

Agree that driving it around will settle it down a bunch.
 
Won't the intercooled setup weigh a bit more than the hot air setup?
 
I'm very curious of the weight split. Would love to see a weight slip.

Agree that driving it around will settle it down a bunch.
Ditto. I do want to find a scale. I bet this car weighs 500lbs less than the 2+2 in it's current state.

Won't the intercooled setup weigh a bit more than the hot air setup?
Yeah, a little. There's added intercooler weight but otherwise it's within 50lbs. Not sure that will make enough difference to notice?


Sticking some things here for when I get around to building a front mount. Aftermarket direct fit ones are $750+ and I don't want to chop my inner fenders or core support all to heck to fit a normal generic one. Pre made coolers with bottom dump inlets are limited.


 
A local acquaintance is running a Treadstone. The thing is downright silly. He's been sub 9.5 seconds with IAT's below 100 degrees.

I've not heard of the Ace Race core that you linked. Do you have any experience with them?
 
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