Alignment Required? MOOG Suspension Components/ Top of the Line > NHRA certified

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"Opinions" as to see all responses. I forgot, majored in the sciences, 'psychology'. This may be construed as being sly but I believe that I can extract information as to see who knows what AND if their response is valid or not. No offense.

By the way I left the evolution class whereas the professor said, "The same exact conditions exist this day to create human life. I said, "Let's conduct a lab experiment with all the environmental conditions you claim exist" and let us create human life. The professor said, "Don't talk foolish Thomas". I walked out, slammed the door and turned my back on science, never to return. Please, do not equate or associate any analogies as relating to science, "Do not care to hear it, Not at all".

now I understand why no alignment is needed, you are aligned with a greater power....😀
 
Just for fun, I also have a built-in "chowderhead" detector, and the way you're poo-pooing anyone's responses here that doesn't validate your own theories has my Spidey senses tingling. I've notice you have a tendency for it from other threads, too.

Don't align at your peril. Maybe tell us why should we GAF if you don't? I suspect your master mechanic was just being a tad lazy IMO. Wasn't there so I don't know his context, but to answer your question I would agree an alignment MAY not be required for simply replacing center link or idler arm, but it might be. Why do you need to change a center link anyway? Oh yeah, there's a swivel balls attaching to the idler and pitman arms that wear out. Recall all parts are manufactured to tolerances, thus, some longer than others, tighter fit, etc., which could change your geometry every so slightly. Did you know if your idler arm isn't placed in the exact same rotational plane as it was when removed, it may affect your toe settings (again, ever so slightly)? How do you know for sure that you don't need an alignment without checking? Because some long-retired old mechanic told you once that you didn't need to touch it? Apparently he never told you to never simply check it. You may not need an alignment, but you can always have the alignment checked to ensure it's still within spec and then if it's out, they can put it back in. Alignments have always been cheaper than good tires. Always. Hopefully Mr. Mastermechanic didn't give you that same advice about your oil.

How low has your springs settled over the years (which will affect your camber settings) or how much have the ball joints worn? If you drive 1 mile per month on average, or you have a trailer/garage queen, then you may be able to go 30 years without an alignment as the uneven tire wear would take years to visually detect. But I won't buy the BS for a second that you've had no wear on your front end components. Well, obviously you have, since you're replacing components.

If you drive your car, you're slowly wearing the clearances on all the moving parts up front. Driving "straight" doesn't mean much in front end alignment. You can get a screwed up alignment to go straight down the road. A tad too much toe in/out can cause edge wear on your tires but the car still can go straight. It's your car, do what you want.

Here's some free advice about forum participation...it seems you have a bit of a chip on your shoulder when responding to help/advice. How about trying not to come across as so abrasive and maybe even helping out others? If you've had your car a long time, or from new as some of us have, you should have something constructive to offer to the rest of the room, especially the guys who are new to the G-body experience. Of course you don't have to, you can always do your thing, and we'll do ours.
 
Hey guys! I just got here... what did I miss?

Ooooohhhh...

 
Hey guys! I just got here... what did I miss?

Ooooohhhh...

Make sure you see the related threads on a Ford dealership fixing valve cover gaskets on a classic Oldsmobile and how to overthink spray paint on your air cleaner lid. :rofl:
 
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