step 3 heavy duty battery lock box preferably trunk keep coming bro we can learn from this discussion 😀 we have to figure out every way to stop these guysAnti theft thoughts....
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step 3 heavy duty battery lock box preferably trunk keep coming bro we can learn from this discussion 😀 we have to figure out every way to stop these guys
a friend of mine has a kill switch you have to find.....then you have to push a normal looking button and then turn the key while your holding the button....
lol ive thought of that too but i want a bunch of switchs to throw everyone off lol have to have them switched in the right order to crank. some up some down lol
Years ago, a friend of my showed me his anti thieft device he installed in his chevelle. He installed non-stock bucket seats
( power driver seat) and rewired the power seat toggles into the ignition switch. You had to pull up the two outside switches while pushing down the center switch before turning the switch to start. All the dash lights would come on like stock, but it wouldn't start with out the switches. He said no one could tell he was using switches because didn't turn around, bend down, or an obviously reach for a button or switch! How it was wired, I have no idea. I have no idea were he is today either.
Doug
( power driver seat) and rewired the power seat toggles into the ignition switch. You had to pull up the two outside switches while pushing down the center switch before turning the switch to start. All the dash lights would come on like stock, but it wouldn't start with out the switches. He said no one could tell he was using switches because didn't turn around, bend down, or an obviously reach for a button or switch! How it was wired, I have no idea. I have no idea were he is today either.
Doug
My cop buddy agrees with me on a kill switch. But it can't be seen, you have to reach up and feel around for it. Believe me, a thief will get tired real fast of feeling around under a razor sharp G-body underdash for something you don't know the location of. And it should kill the ignition, not the starter. A screwdriver can jump the starter too easy.
In one of my cars I had someone on two different occasions break into my car to try to steal my stereo (my silent alarm went off and paged me). I ran them off both times (it must have been disturbing seeing a big fat man like myself in my underwear with my 10mm Glock with the laser on flying out the door). However, I saw a common theme, they always pulled down the covering on the bottom of the dash and was doing something on the back side. So, when I repaired it the last time, I riveted a 10" knife blade to the frame of the lower dash hoping they would reach around it and get cut. It never got tested again unfortunately.
BTW, I wouldn't think about doing the knife thing now with liability being what it is in this day and age.
I actually had one car with a bad electric seat motor that I wired to a relay (some what like above) but using just the single not working switch.
Another thing I had done is I had one of my radios wired hot all the time and I pulled the face plate when I left the car. I used the remote turn-on lead (normally used for amps) as an ignition enabler. Worked well...
In the next few weeks, I am putting back in my old Alpine alarm with all of its bells and whistles. After they are done putting it in, I am then going to go in and put in some type of hidden kill, reed, or similar switch. The only thing I haven't figured out yet is how to make some form of valet switch so I don't have to tell everyone my secret spots. Anyone got any ideas for a way for a temp bypass? I think the reed switch would be easy, you could then just leave the magnet in place. However, it might look odd if it were easy to get to.
I still use the club, I lock my glovebox, I lock my keys and existing alarm remote into my 1000# gun safe, and have it insured and am paranoid where I park when I do drive it.
BTW, I wouldn't think about doing the knife thing now with liability being what it is in this day and age.
I actually had one car with a bad electric seat motor that I wired to a relay (some what like above) but using just the single not working switch.
Another thing I had done is I had one of my radios wired hot all the time and I pulled the face plate when I left the car. I used the remote turn-on lead (normally used for amps) as an ignition enabler. Worked well...
In the next few weeks, I am putting back in my old Alpine alarm with all of its bells and whistles. After they are done putting it in, I am then going to go in and put in some type of hidden kill, reed, or similar switch. The only thing I haven't figured out yet is how to make some form of valet switch so I don't have to tell everyone my secret spots. Anyone got any ideas for a way for a temp bypass? I think the reed switch would be easy, you could then just leave the magnet in place. However, it might look odd if it were easy to get to.
I still use the club, I lock my glovebox, I lock my keys and existing alarm remote into my 1000# gun safe, and have it insured and am paranoid where I park when I do drive it.
pontiacgp said:I think the horn button saying JEEP is the best theft deterrent I think I have ever seen...
:lol: Hey now! I have one of those!
Yes it is on the malibu, 😳 , haha.
Or mabe just 12 volts straight from the battery
I know a guy with a '66 GT350 that has 20 switches wired up in his glovebox and they all have to be switched in a specific orientation for the car to start.
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