Best Trans for the job?

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Dinosport

G-Body Guru
Jul 20, 2015
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Well Im open to what comes my on a good deal so I havent decided on a trans yet. Itll most likely be 700r4, 200r4. Manual isnt out of the question depending on what comes my way like I said. The manual though will require a bit more work, finding pedals, linkage, etc etc.
I have a 6.0 2014 out of an express van. Ly6 823 heads. Im going to do a cam and be around the 400 to 450 mark is my goal keeping the AC and all. It has a 308s posi in it now. Its going to be a street car. something I do some burn outs in, and be able to drive 130 miles to see family in, ( with the wife and kids).
Im hoping for an over drive transmission and higher gears.
What are you guys? What would be a good set up? Should I see if I find a trans with lock up, or should I stay away from that? I do want to be able to hold my own should I come across a Civic or a stang but it isnt going to be a drag car by any means.
I have alot of guys I can tell what Im looking for and they usually come through eventually, lol.
So if you have any advise on which way to go with this Im all ears,
Thanks guys, So far I really have to say I like this site. Alot of knowledge and guys willing to help.
Keep up the good work
 
Are you going to use a factory ECM or are you going carb? A beefed up 4L65E can handle that power level and they are easy to come buy but are electronically controlled. The right vintage slightly beefed up 700R4 will do the job but will need a properly configured TV Cable. The same is true for the 200-4R. Selection is important on both for a performance application. You don't want a 200-4R that shifts at 3000 at WOT.

A 4L80E is indestructible but also requires a controller. It's a big unit so I'm not sure how it fits in the tunnel.

On manuals, at your power level you probably should stick with a TKO or a T56 Magnum, both of which are pricey. A beefed up LS1 T56 will also do the job but by the time you buy a used T56, pay someone to upgrade/overhaul it, you aren't looking at that much more money to go with a new TKO or T56 Magnum.

Putting a stick in it will be more expensive and more complicated but a stick is way more fun in my opinion.
 
With 400-450hp you can get away with a decently built 700-R4 or even better the 200-4R. Unless you plan on putting a sticky tire under it and going to the track every week it will live fine. The 7.5 would fail first. If you find someone that knows the older overdrives to rebuild one you are golden. Some 3.73's out back with an overdrive will be awesome for all around driving.

The 4L80e fits fine but thats overkill for you in my opinion. Since the 200-4R was the only overdrive that came in these cars finding a cross member will be no problem.
 
I dont know if Im going EFI or carbed yet. I like EFI better but I dont have the harness, ecu. I also have a new motor which is the 58tooth crank sensor, Those only use the electronic pedal which i dont have either, also the 58tooth is newer and not as plentyful as the older ones. I have the truck intake which is horrible looking (not that, that should matter so much but it does to me. And to complicate things further I will need to have someone go in and turn off the rear 02's, and then tune the whole thing. Or dont get the pedal and get another throttle body and have that shut off. If the harness and ecu turn up at a good price I wuld hop on it but if I start the swap and dont have it I might just go carbed and implicate things a little.
So Unless I end up with an ecu Id rather run a non electronic trans.
Lock up is something Im interested in know if its worth while to take make an extra effort to get?
Ive been reading mixed reviews on how well it works on something cammed and stuff
 
I don't like how the truck intake looks either. I wouldn't put one in my car. You can run a cable driven throttle body on a 58x motor by running a Gen III (24x) computer and the Lingenfelter converter box. I hadn't heard the 'lockup is not great with a cammed motor' deal. Everything modern has lockup and there are plenty of cammed cars with lockup. It sounds to me like you have to decide first manual or automatic. Then you have to decide if you are going to go cable driven (be it carb or throttle body) or drive by wire and then you can hone in on what you want. My brother and I put a 2010 6.0 (L96) in his 78 Z28. We used a LS3 intake, cable driven throttle body, Corvette accessory drive and put a cam and valve springs in it. It has a T56 Magnum behind it with 3.42 gears. It's awesome. It was expensive though. On my Grand Prix I have a new 350 horse 350. I'm going with a carb and putting a World Class T5 behind it. It has a 8.5 10-bolt with a 3.08 posi. Milder and less expensive but should still be fun. At the end of the day it comes down to what you want out of the car and what you spend.
 
Those are some cool set ups. This is what I have come to understand so far. I spoke to Texas Speed and we picked a cam that would work for me. I dont know the specs off hand but the gy on the phone told me I would need a higher stall than factory. I ran a search on the topic of lock up and non lock and read in a few places that a factory lock up converter set is cool but when you need a higher stall thats where the problem is. I also briefly read that a couple of guys where saying that lockup isnt good under hard acceleration. Its apparently hard to a good high stall lock up converter. I have those sites saved and ill read a little more on it. Now I havent gotten around to different sites to see what they have to say or to like summit and see what they have etc.
Its more likely Ill stay auto than manual. I can always change it later which isnt really a bad thing because I need to always be looking for improvements or ill eventually get bored.
Say Im driving along at 70mph how much difference in Rpm does the lock up make anyway. I read its only 100 to 200 rpm.
 
Man, that's a new one on me. I have a 3200 stall Circle D lockup converter in my 08 Sierra running the GM hot cam (219/228 on a 110) in the 5.3. I dailey drive it. There are guys drag racing LS setups and are locking the converter at WOT. I'm not disputing what you are reading, it's just new on me.
 
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Man, that's a new one on me. I have a 3200 stall Circle D lockup converter in my 08 Sierra running the GM hot cam (219/228 on a 110) in the 5.3. I dailey drive it. There are guys drag racing LS setups and are locking the converter at WOT. I'm not disputing what you are reading, it's just new on me.

Your right I did a bit of reading last night and it seems there are a few guys that have had bad experiences but for the most part a lot of guys like the lock up feature. Thanks for the input. I'm not ready to start the swap so I won't buy a transmission yet. Especially if the warranty runs out while its sitting on the garage. But I'll see what comes my way
 
IOn my Grand Prix I have a new 350 horse 350. I'm going with a carb and putting a World Class T5 behind it. It has a 8.5 10-bolt with a 3.08 posi. Milder and less expensive but should still be fun. At the end of the day it comes down to what you want out of the car and what you spend.

You will enjoy that set up, it's close to what I have. My only suggestion is to get rid of the stock shifter and get something better if you havn't done that already. I have a Hurst with stops in it and that saves the transmission. The GM shifter is way too sloppy and it's easy to overshift and put pressure on the shifting forks
 
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You will enjoy that set up, it's close to what I have. My only suggestion is to get rid of the stock shifter and get something better if you havn't done that already. I have a Hurst with stops in it and that saves the transmission. The GM shifter is way too sloppy and it's easy to overshift and put pressure on the shifting forks
Thanks for the feedback and the advice. I think that Hurst shifter has been discontinued. I bought a Pro 5.0 shifter for a Third Gen Camaro. It has stops and I couldn't agree with you more on the need for them. I will likely put a Hurst stick on the shifter.
 
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