CURRENT 6.0/4l80E swap parts = $$$$

[Northernregal]

I think you'll find more power driving it around a while and watching the AFR. Then, stick it on the dyno, or better yet, make a few passes on the strip and run the numbers. That's so much more fun (& accurate, I think) than watching somebody strap your shirt to a roller.

Completely agree. Although I'm going to get mine tuned more professionally for a safe street tune on the dyno. More because I am sure I'd need a cage if I took it to a track and ran it hard.

I reread my post about a Dyno run. I guess I will do it. Just not right away. I had a Road Glide that I hopped up. I had it put on a Dyno and found 8 hp and I believe it was 5 tq. Couldn't tell a difference and I was out a couple hundred dollars. The closest LS tuning Wizard is about 2 hours from me so it would be a whole day of traveling and watching some guy beat on my car. All for maybe getting some usable power and out $350.00 plus gas.

You are staying with the factory ecu? Target 12.5 and 18degrees at peak torque and 24 or so degrees at 5k rpm and you will be happy. Mine liked that a lot. Could probably get 27 degrees and still make power up top.

 

[FastCraig]

Completely agree. Although I'm going to get mine tuned more professionally for a safe street tune on the dyno. More because I am sure I'd need a cage if I took it to a track and ran it hard.




You are staying with the factory ecu? Target 12.5 and 18degrees at peak torque and 24 or so degrees at 5k rpm and you will be happy. Mine liked that a lot. Could probably get 27 degrees and still make power up top.

Yes. Factory ECU. I haven't even looked at tuners/controllers.

 

[64nailhead]

I think you'll find more power driving it around a while and watching the AFR. Then, stick it on the dyno, or better yet, make a few passes on the strip and run the numbers. That's so much more fun (& accurate, I think) than watching somebody strap your shirt to a roller.

I reread my post about a Dyno run. I guess I will do it. Just not right away. I had a Road Glide that I hopped up. I had it put on a Dyno and found 8 hp and I believe it was 5 tq. Couldn't tell a difference and I was out a couple hundred dollars. The closest LS tuning Wizard is about 2 hours from me so it would be a whole day of traveling and watching some guy beat on my car. All for maybe getting some usable power and out $350.00 plus gas.

You're both right. Don't put it on the dyno until runs, drives and starts properly (street tune) - then to the dyno.

If your dyno guy is good, then he will make it feel like another 20-30 hp in tuning the TC and shift points are dialed in, but with no HP gain. Then he should be able to pickup a true, on paper, 30-50 hp with the tune - very easy with a 6.0. Throw cam and headers in there and add another 50 on that.

Watched it yesterday with a bone stock LS1 in a 4th gen - 42hp better at the end the owner was shocked that it was only 42 hp more based on how it drove. $2-300 can seem like a fair amount of money, but that is about the cheapest hp you an add IMHO.

 

[fleming442]

I guess my point was more to the fact that most tuners dive head first into max power at WOT, then make it idle, then make it drivable. That seems entirely bassackwards to me.

 

[FastCraig]

I guess my point was more to the fact that most tuners dive head first into max power at WOT, then make it idle, then make it drivable. That seems entirely bassackwards to me.

Exactly. WOT isn't what I'm looking for. Blue Cat tuning in Ashland is the best around here and who I'll go to when it's time.

 

[Sean80monte]

i got my engine tuned after completing my swap and making it drivable. Has terrific street manners now for a btr stage 3 cam and long tubes. Also took it the strip and performed good for my first time. Guy charged me 450 for tune but I think it was well worth it. Tuning shop is ten minutes from me so that helped my decision. He said I was missing a lot of power. I would recommend to get it tuned but not necessary in all cases.

 

[FastCraig]

Was finishing up putting the rest of my engine together when the parts man pulled in the driveway. He had my welder and Holley Sniper. I unboxed the Sniper and put the TB on it for a mock up. The TB cable arm hits the edge of the intake. Also the rounded injector bung at the flange hits a small raised spot on all 4 corners of the heads. So the TB don't fit and the intake doesn't sit flush on the head and won't seal without grinding, slightly, the round part of the flange. I called Holley to inquire about the flange issue but have not heard back yet. Anyone else run into this issue?

 

[fleming442]

Probably fits fine with the gaskets.

 

[FastCraig]

Was finishing up putting the rest of my engine together when the parts man pulled in the driveway. He had my welder and Holley Sniper. I unboxed the Sniper and put the TB on it for a mock up. The TB cable arm hits the edge of the intake. Also the rounded injector bung at the flange hits a small raised spot on all 4 corners of the heads. So the TB don't fit and the intake doesn't sit flush on the head and won't seal without grinding, slightly, the round part of the flange. I called Holley to inquire about the flange issue but have not heard back yet. Anyone else run into this issue?View attachment 129303View attachment 129321View attachment 129322

Holley tech finally called me. He didn't give any reason why the intake didn't fit but told me to have Summit send me a new one. Same part number. If I get the replacement and have the same issue I'm just going to Dremel 1/16 off of the rounded port of the flange. Guess I'll get a spacer for the TB so the arm doesn't hit the body of the intake.

 

[FastCraig]

Probably fits fine with the gaskets.

Nope. Gaskets are on it in the pics.