Steam vents? Can I run a line side to side only? Would this kit work? One on front and one on rear?
CURRENT 6.0/4l80E swap parts = $$$$
- Thread starter FastCraig
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No, you have to have an exit somewhere. You can block off the rear, but the front needs an escape route...either to the water pump or rad hose, or rad itself. I have the rears tied into the front, then T'd off into a port on the water pump spacer.
I've gotta say you're approaching the tune 100% wrong. For one it will probably be pissed that your throttle pedal isn't present. You may encounter cold start issues, idle/transient issues, potentially all sorts of driveability issues, and the obvious power you'd be leaving on the table. What you'd be addressing is street car problems, not race car problems. It pains me to see so many people so willing to blow thousands on an engine swap then want to hold off on the tune. If you had kept the stock cam, intake, and pedal it wouldn't really be a factor but I'll bet it's going to run wonky.
Not sure what you mean by the tune. Other than the High Ram my tune is nearly identical to two other LS swaps my tuner has done recently. When I get the car on the street where I can identify any issues it will get a street tune. Then after it has a few miles on it I'll get it on a Dyno. I have adopted a lot of advice from members on here. I' also have other people here locally that I discuss my build with. I take their advice also. Except for a cam and intake the engine is stock so what do you think I'm doing wrong?
It sounded like you were trying to kick the can on the tune in your other posts. It's likely gonna be quirky to the point that it's a chore to drive right off the bat. A street tune IMO is better than a Dyno tune when it comes to dialing in driveability.
823 heads only have one steam line provision up front. I ran mine to the water pump.
Ahh, I read Dyno and my mind went right to tune. I blew through the part where you changed your mind on the trans. What made you go 4L80 vs 6L80?
2 reasons. I have great interior and didn't want to tear it out or replace it with a console and buckets and nearly everyone on here told me I would be much happier with a 4l80.
I set the 2 week old Sniper and it's replacement side by side and there are slight differences. The welds are different on each unit. The replacement Sniper flange is taller. It seems if I were to grind the high spots on the heads that the intake bolt holes would line up. Since I have both units I can compare them and see if one fits better than the other or if I'm not satisfied with the fit send both back. The throttle cable bracket with 2 gaskets was enough for the TB arm to clear by a cat hair. The replacement unit is on the right. Pics on the engine are the replacement unit.
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