36 at 2400 is too much. All in by 3000-3200 is plenty. Idling at 18-20 isn’t deal breaking either. You’re looking for 16-20 degrees of mechanical advance for most builds unless you have something crazy radical , which you don’t from what I can see.
Dumb timing question
- Thread starter Baker7888
- Start date
Thanks. 36* all in at 2400 is definitely too soon, i had audible pinging under a load. So the high initial and limiter screw gained me nothing.
Are you suggesting 3000 is too soon?
Back to my all in at 3000 (13 initial) it runs great. No pinging that i can detect however WOT it’s hard to hear. The other option is 1 step up on the springs which puts my all in at ~4500 which is late IMO.
This is straight out of the Chevrolet Power - Technical Data, Specification...
I'd use it as a guide but wouldn't pursue the 20* down low only for the mere fact that if running that much initial, it can be hard on the starter.
I like my EFI engines...I can set timing with a key stroke!!!
Last edited:
Straight out of the what ?? Says racing engines at the bottom. This is a street driven car …. Trying to be clear in this thread so info doesnt get muddled up.
Idk what I did...messed up the htm...hope this works.
Chevrolet Power - Technical Data, Specification, Special Parts (5th Edition) 1984: General Motors: Amazon.com: Books
Chevrolet Power - Technical Data, Specification, Special Parts (5th Edition) 1984 [General Motors] on Amazon.com. *FREE* shipping on qualifying offers. Chevrolet Power - Technical Data, Specification, Special Parts (5th Edition) 1984
www.amazon.com
Oh, gotcha. That motor looks wild.
I dont think that applies to me. No vac advance on that either …
I think you’re fine with everything except your limiting screw setup. From what I gather, that’s what out the all in at 2400. It sounds like you need to fine tune the limiting screw some.
Really, whatever you have to do to get the all in timing any where near 3200 will work just fine for a street car. If that winds up putting your initial at 10-12, then be sure to hook your vacuum can to a manifold source. And contrary, if whatever you come up with puts your initial higher, then hookup your vacuum canister to a ported vacuum source.
You have a lot of ways you can go with this if you’re not concerned about squeezing every last HP out of it.
Really, whatever you have to do to get the all in timing any where near 3200 will work just fine for a street car. If that winds up putting your initial at 10-12, then be sure to hook your vacuum can to a manifold source. And contrary, if whatever you come up with puts your initial higher, then hookup your vacuum canister to a ported vacuum source.
You have a lot of ways you can go with this if you’re not concerned about squeezing every last HP out of it.
Thanks for the advice. Yes i ditched the limiting screw. And yes i am running manifold vac for the can.
I would agree on trying to set it closer to the chevy book. I go for 18-20 at idle and 36-38 total. This allows you to close the throttle blades down for a cleaner idle. I ran my 355 this way. a 10:1 piston aluminum head small block with a 231/239 .535/.550 Hydraulic roller engine. By no means a race engine. The 468 in my chevelle now idles at 24 and advances to 36, another street engine. And as far as total, there is no way of knowing where to put it without a dyno or running it at the track. So you could try one of those phone apps that seem to be pretty good.
Now on a race motor, I try to set total and let it idle as high initially as I can. My motors idled at 30 and adanced to 36. I tried the locked out thing, and it idled great but I didn't have the set up right and damaged the starter and flexplate over time. My one race motor made 4 hp less at 40 than 36 so no need to go any higher. This was on a 910 hp 540. I ran the same timing on my 980 hp 565 as well.
Now on a race motor, I try to set total and let it idle as high initially as I can. My motors idled at 30 and adanced to 36. I tried the locked out thing, and it idled great but I didn't have the set up right and damaged the starter and flexplate over time. My one race motor made 4 hp less at 40 than 36 so no need to go any higher. This was on a 910 hp 540. I ran the same timing on my 980 hp 565 as well.
Last edited:
Total at what Rpm?
With the pieces i have on hand. My two options (with 18-20 idle) were all in a 2400 or (one step up on the springs) all in at 4500+
All in at 2400 will not work as a road test revealed pining under a light load
Similar threads
