Someone has to install the cam bearings. I was gonna have my Buick buddy do it for me, well his son got in a pretty nasty car accident last week so he's gonna be occupied with that for a while.
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Someone has to install the cam bearings. I was gonna have my Buick buddy do it for me, well his son got in a pretty nasty car accident last week so he's gonna be occupied with that for a while.
Holy crap, hope the kid's alright. You'd have to dissasemble whatever's left to the bare block, file down all the casting flash in the lifter valley, take it down there (with the cam, so they can align the bearings properly), and pay ~$120 to have them remove the old bearings, core plugs, clean out the block, and install the TA bearings. From them sliding the cam in and out, expect some markings on the bearings, but fear not. They're hardened. Much more than that will happen during break in. Be SURE to tell them to install them with the oiling holes at 7 and 3 o clock, it's in the directions. If not installed correctly, it defeats the purpose of the bearing and may even harm the engine. You can then do literally everything else. You don't need them to build it for you. I've seen the stuff you've done, you can easilly handle assembling an engine. Don't let any shop guy scare you or back you into a spot where you think you have to let them do everything. hell, you can remove the old bearings yourself if you want to with a long screwdriver and a hammer. It's a bit barbaric, but it can be done.
SBB rods are 6.385"... way longer than a SBC rod. Autotec makes forged pistons to any spec for the SBB with rings for 699, but that's for another time.Here's where I'm at:
-All for building a Burick! 👍👍👍👍
-Nope, it ain't cheap, but anybody can do an LS or SBC- that's why they're cheap
Looking at your price list- mag not needed, shotpeen is cleanup- don't do it if you can hot-tank, money spent on crank should be to use cheapo, SBC parts (offset grind, etc,). Those costs alone are almost a G, and using stock rods. You could have custom pistons on SBC rods hanging off a stock crank for the same money, with better results, custom tailored to your situation.
Use the force, Luke!
Yeah, I think he's pretty banged up, concussion and I think he said he broke a rib. The car was totalled.
I appreciate the vote of confidence. Ive removed and installed engines and transmissions plenty of times, but never done a rebuild myself (though I've assisted with other people's builds). I'm just not super confident in my measuring skills when it gets to using feeler gauges and micrometers and plastigage.
Question for you, did you have to file your rings to size on either of your motors?
If your having to do a budget build this time around i agree with MR SONY , dont even worry with a machine shop unless you just absolutely have something that requires there service . Your biggest obstacle [ with your skill set ] is going to be bearings ! If you know that you need cam bearings let them do that ! Its not a hard job but without the tool or experience you will be money ahead to have them do that for you. All the rest you can do at home ! when you purchase new rod and main bearings you ask for a stick of plasti - gauge , the guys selling the parts will explain what it is and how to use it . A ring compressor and valve spring compressor can all be borrowed at your local parts store . Since your building a buick engine i believe the harmonic balancer is a press on there is also a tool for that , it can also be rented or borrowed , dont knock that 35 yr old balncer on with a hammer ! When your ready to reassemble a decent cam , headers , and dual plane intake will be your best bang for your buck parts ! Dont overdue the CAM especially if your going to run an automatic trans ! Summit or Jegs will give you all the info you need . If you hit any stumbling blocks the guys here will help you through it , we have all been where your at now , its how we all learn and you will too !
The Buick balancer slides right off, no puller needed. I have a valve spring compressor. I don't have a ring compressor. A lot of people recommend the TA212 cam for a stockish Buick 350. The stock manifolds supposedly flow okay, so I'm gonna hold off on headers. I do know a guy with a used TA performance intake that he will sell to me for $200. I'd like to keep my engine budget (not including what I've already spent) around $2000 plus or minus a little.
If at all possible do NOT skip the headers they will be your biggest hp/tq improvement , especially once you change the cam ! ! Eat of the dollar menu if you must ! And you should have a friend look at that balancer if it came off without a puller .I am not familiar with buick engines but that doesnt sound right .
This whole thread reminds me of a discussion an old friend and I had almost 35 years ago. We were discussing how much work and money went into an engine, making it "perfect", to go into a car that would never see another 100000 miles. (he had FIVE 62-64 Impala SS cars)
I am of the mindset that your best bet is to maybe replace the cam bearings and put it back together. As ALL of us know, things snowball quickly once you invoke the "while I'm there" process.
I'm not saying nothing ever needs a proper rebuild, but given the intended use, and budget, I can't see going nuts.
And I agree about the balance/damper...shouldn't slide off, unless it's just a pulley hub.
I am of the mindset that your best bet is to maybe replace the cam bearings and put it back together. As ALL of us know, things snowball quickly once you invoke the "while I'm there" process.
I'm not saying nothing ever needs a proper rebuild, but given the intended use, and budget, I can't see going nuts.
And I agree about the balance/damper...shouldn't slide off, unless it's just a pulley hub.
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