Engine Machine Work Prices

[joesregalproject]

This whole thread reminds me of a discussion an old friend and I had almost 35 years ago. We were discussing how much work and money went into an engine, making it "perfect", to go into a car that would never see another 100000 miles. (he had FIVE 62-64 Impala SS cars)

I am of the mindset that your best bet is to maybe replace the cam bearings and put it back together. As ALL of us know, things snowball quickly once you invoke the "while I'm there" process.

I'm not saying nothing ever needs a proper rebuild, but given the intended use, and budget, I can't see going nuts.

And I agree about the balance/damper...shouldn't slide off, unless it's just a pulley hub.

I think you are right. The cross hatching is still there, the engine was a runner to begin with, everything so far has looked fine. I think it's gonna be best to just run it. The "while I'm this far" mentality has already gotten me a lot farther than I originally intended to go, and it could theoretically go on forever.

I think I'll replace the cam bearings, and stick it back together with the new cam, and put my saved money elsewhere in the car. If I want to be lazy, I'll take the engine to the machine shop as is, and let them remove amd reinstall the crank to change out the bearings. If they find anything that needs addressed, I'm sure they'll let me know.

As for the harmonic balancer, from TA performance's catalog-

 

[Ribbedroof]

Cool, I learned something new today! Thanks!

I would think that a slip fit might lead to keyway damage, but apparently that's not the case...as long as the retaining bolt remains tight.

 

[joesregalproject]

Cool, I learned something new today! Thanks!

Thank you for giving me some guidance on how to proceed with my engine! There's a lot of people telling me a lot of different things, but I think at the end of the day, it'll be best to keep the engine work minimal, and save my money for the other things the car needs.

 

[paul.m]

This whole thread reminds me of a discussion an old friend and I had almost 35 years ago. We were discussing how much work and money went into an engine, making it "perfect", to go into a car that would never see another 100000 miles. (he had FIVE 62-64 Impala SS cars)

I am of the mindset that your best bet is to maybe replace the cam bearings and put it back together. As ALL of us know, things snowball quickly once you invoke the "while I'm there" process.

I'm not saying nothing ever needs a proper rebuild, but given the intended use, and budget, I can't see going nuts.

And I agree about the balance/damper...shouldn't slide off, unless it's just a pulley hub.

Theres a lot of truth in that statement ! All of us thats been messing with cars for the past 25 -35 yrs , has at some point ended up with a 6-8 k engine in a 1-2 k car that we decided a couple yrs later didnt suit us anymore ! LOL

 

[paul.m]

Cool, I learned something new today! Thanks!

I would think that a slip fit might lead to keyway damage, but apparently that's not the case...as long as the retaining bolt remains tight.

ME TOO

 

[pontiacgp]

I polish my crank at least twice a week!!!

 

[Gonzo1970]

Just my $0.02..

Those prices are high compared to whats local to me. I had a lot done to a 400 Pontiac out of my 78 T/A... got out of there for just under $1500

The big question to me, tho.. how was the compression? Is there a Reason to do all that, other than "MOAR POWAH" or being overly cautious?

If the compression is good, I would pull the pan, and examine the lower end. If everything looks good, put a good oil pump in it and put it back together.. then do the top end and run it.

In my experience, unless its been abused or something catastrophic happened (eg. be it ran without oil, or something equally as brilliant - or a valve dropped), lower ends last Way longer than Upper ends.. and, in comparison, are cheaper to refresh.

-Gonz

 

[Doug Chahoy]

On my last project I took the whole engine to a very reputable machine shop in Pgh. My cost was everything you listed plus a 30 over bore and rebuild kit . They did the heads also. Told them what HP I wanted to reach, and they did they're job. When I picked it up my son put the rings/pistons in, the heads on and then all the other external parts. Shop bill was $2,500.00. I didn't like putting out that kind of money but I feel its kind of like insurance knowing I won't have problems with all the areas they did.

 

[MrSony]

Almost 2500 bucks... he has a running engine y'know. And that crate engine will be even less compression than he has now! They probably used the deep dish low compression rebuilder pistons with a reduced compression height. Stock comp height deep dish pistons aren't available unless custom ordered. In a stock Buick 350 they're about 7.8:1 vs his 8:1. He could have his whole build done for that price.

 

[MrSony]

If at all possible do NOT skip the headers they will be your biggest hp/tq improvement , especially once you change the cam ! ! Eat of the dollar menu if you must ! And you should have a friend look at that balancer if it came off without a puller .I am not familiar with buick engines but that doesnt sound right .

No, almost all Buick balancers are slip fit. They slide on and are keyed. From the 231 to the 455, all slip fit. Think the Nailheads are like that too. And headers for a SBB aren't that big of a deal. It's $500 for a 30hp gain on a mild engine, not worth it at all imo. SBB headers aren't growing on trees like SBC headers are. Plus, the SBB stopped production in 1980, and iirc was never even in the 78-80 A/G body (wagons got em that late into its run mostly), so the only headers are 70s A body headers. They hang real low and are a tight fit, lord help you if your body bushings are wasted. Plus then you gotta get a mini starter... it's a big hassle for a stock 350. Now, once the AL heads start rolling out, then it becomes a necessity. The intakes are pricey too, best to get a used one. New are $400. On a stockish engine, only benifit will be a 50lb weight reduction. I mean 50lbs is 50lbs, but no one is gonna pay $400+ shipping to get there.