engine problems, again.

Status
Not open for further replies.

richp85elco

Master Mechanic
Feb 3, 2011
409
1
0
Long Beach, CA
that sounds like a good starting point, also adjust your choke from the position it is at it looks like you have it all the way lean so it goes off almost immediately. loosen the three housing screws and turn it clockwise maybe to about one or two notches before the last. this way your choke would be closed longer and help you with cold starts. also remember once you turn the key to on it starts heating the choke wire up so dont leave the key on the on position before you actually start it.

Also did you ever get your valves adjusted right? this might be contributing to the problem as well
 

David Williamson

G-Body Guru
Jan 7, 2011
834
0
0
richp85elco said:
that sounds like a good starting point, also adjust your choke from the position it is at it looks like you have it all the way lean so it goes off almost immediately. loosen the three housing screws and turn it clockwise maybe to about one or two notches before the last. this way your choke would be closed longer and help you with cold starts. also remember once you turn the key to on it starts heating the choke wire up so dont leave the key on the on position before you actually start it.

Also did you ever get your valves adjusted right? this might be contributing to the problem as well

Alright I was thinking about tuning the choke.
Alrighty I will make sure to notch it 2 before last.
Also I will make sure not to keep the key on before start ups, Thank you.
 

CHRIS.O

Royal Smart Person
May 26, 2011
1,432
0
36
MI
I downloaded the manual David and I have to say it is a pretty uninformative piece of sh*t. :mrgreen: Might find something better on youtube than the manual.
 

David Williamson

G-Body Guru
Jan 7, 2011
834
0
0
CHRIS.O said:
I downloaded the manual David and I have to say it is a pretty uninformative piece of sh*t. :mrgreen: Might find something better on youtube than the manual.

Is it really?
haha I guess that's what I'll do then is start looking on google and Youtube.

Thanks for the heads up Chris.
 

85cut420

Apprentice
Nov 19, 2011
99
1
0
Wake Co, NC
I had a similar problem with the 3.8 in my Cutlass minus the clanking. Would not stay running at start, had to pump the accelerator and keep pumping it to keep it running, then it runs fine 10 minutes later. Here's what I did:
-Checked for leaks by ear, heard hissing, found and fixed an air leak. Nothing
-Reset the carb (did not help either)
-Checked fuel pump (it was bad), replaced, it helped very little
-Put fuel cleaner in gas tank (this also made it better
-Checked for leaks (my mechanic did), this was the main issue, as he found a vacuum leak. Fixed that and now she starts right up with I pump of accelerator (2-3 if it's cold), and stays running (unless you try to drive without warming up, you know how it is).

Hope this helps
 

David Williamson

G-Body Guru
Jan 7, 2011
834
0
0
85cut420 said:
I had a similar problem with the 3.8 in my Cutlass minus the clanking. Would not stay running at start, had to pump the accelerator and keep pumping it to keep it running, then it runs fine 10 minutes later. Here's what I did:
-Checked for leaks by ear, heard hissing, found and fixed an air leak. Nothing
-Reset the carb (did not help either)
-Checked fuel pump (it was bad), replaced, it helped very little
-Put fuel cleaner in gas tank (this also made it better
-Checked for leaks (my mechanic did), this was the main issue, as he found a vacuum leak. Fixed that and now she starts right up with I pump of accelerator (2-3 if it's cold), and stays running (unless you try to drive without warming up, you know how it is).

Hope this helps

Thanks, i will actually go out and double check for any hissing or air noises.
I will also check all my vacuum lines.
I will double check everything, I may be missing something so Its always good to double check.
Thanks again.
 

David Williamson

G-Body Guru
Jan 7, 2011
834
0
0
I was wondering if anyone could show me a picture of where all the vacuum lines were and where they should be hooked up to?
i think I might have some wrong, not sure of it but just to make sure I wanted to have a picture to show me exactly where they go and if I have the right.

Thanks Much appreciated.
 

jmt455

Master Mechanic
Jun 26, 2011
402
3
18
SE Michigan
Some additional thoughts...

The Edelbrock carbs don't like fuel pressures over about 5 psi.
If you haven't found any other issues, you should probably verify that your pump pressure isn't too high.
That will cause all kinds of trouble...

What was done to the valve train when it was adjusted?
Have you been able to confirm that the lifters were set properly?

Any recent backfires? My 305 acted this after the timing chain skipped a tooth...or two.
 

David Williamson

G-Body Guru
Jan 7, 2011
834
0
0
jmt455 said:
Some additional thoughts...

The Edelbrock carbs don't like fuel pressures over about 5 psi.
If you haven't found any other issues, you should probably verify that your pump pressure isn't too high.
That will cause all kinds of trouble...

What was done to the valve train when it was adjusted?
Have you been able to confirm that the lifters were set properly?

Any recent backfires? My 305 acted this after the timing chain skipped a tooth...or two.

I have to buy the pressure gauge right?
Also nothing was done to them other than lashing them, That was it.
I haven't confirmed it but I followed the steps of how to lash them and everything, So i assume they were set properly.
But I haven't had confirmation on them by someone who is a licensed Mechanic, If that's what you mean.
No backfires, But there is a noise coming from the exhaust not a pop or bang, but its a slight plopping noise, I hope you get what I mean.
 

jmt455

Master Mechanic
Jun 26, 2011
402
3
18
SE Michigan
I have to buy the pressure gauge right?
Either buy, borrow or rent one. For the low pressure system, the combination fuel pressure/vacuum gage often comes in handy and they are not very expensive.
Also nothing was done to them other than lashing them, That was it.
I haven't confirmed it but I followed the steps of how to lash them and everything, So i assume they were set properly.
But I haven't had confirmation on them by someone who is a licensed Mechanic, If that's what you mean.
No, I only wondered if you were certain that it was done correctly. Miss-adjusted valves could cause this...
No backfires, But there is a noise coming from the exhaust not a pop or bang, but its a slight plopping noise, I hope you get what I mean.
Yes, I know exactly what you mean. My 305 sounded like that and I could not keep it running. It would stall as soon as I tried to put it in gear and tried to move the vehicle under its own power. I asked about the backfire because that could have been the event that caused the timing chain to jump a tooth or two. This sounds like your timing chain has slipped or, possibly, the distributor has been installed incorrectly (off by one tooth)

Do you have a timing light? I'd be checking that next...
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

GBodyForum is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to amazon.com. Amazon, the Amazon logo, AmazonSupply, and the AmazonSupply logo are trademarks of Amazon.com, Inc. or its affiliates.

Please support GBodyForum Sponsors

Classic Truck Consoles Dixie Restoration Depot UMI Performance

Contact [email protected] for info on becoming a sponsor